Problems refinishing ceiling

aumanpj

Four months ago I took down the popcorn ceiling in my den. This was the first time I've ever tried doing this kind of thing. The day after taking down the popcorn I realized I'd need to retape and mud the joints. I got everything to a place where I thought it was nice and smooth and I painted. Well, now I'm noticing how aweful it all is! Especially during the day time. I'm convinced there is no way the ceiling was this rough when I painted it. In one section I can see an entire line of tape! I put three coats of mud and did a nice sanding.

My question for you: Did I just underestimate how smooth it all had to be before painting or does this mud shrink over time making a surface that was once nice, flat and smooth, rough and pumpy? I'm asking because I think I may try to remud and repaint and I want to do it RIGHT this time around. I was at Home Depot earlier today and I saw a variety of product... I noticed something called "45" said 20% less shrinking. Should I get a special product for this ceiling? Any input would be much appreciated!

Thank you

sdsester

Stay out of the box stores for this kiind of project. Go to a paint store.

You probably should have applied an alkyd primer before taping and mudding. There may have been adhesive residue from the popcorn to with the tape and mud does not want to stick.

aumanpj

The tape seems to have stuck just fine. When I say that I can see it I mean that the there is a depression all along the tape line - as if the mud shrunk.

So what's the solution here? Take down all the tape, apply alkyd primer, retape, remud, prime, and repaint?

sdsester

What kind of tape did you use? You did lay it into a nice layer of mud right? And then after it dried, you went back mudded over the top and eventually did your blending skim coat?

Can you post a picture?

aumanpj

I used the adhesive mesh tape. Applied three full coats of mud and then a little touch up because i'm new to it all. I could take a photo sometime tomorrow if you think that would help matters. Basically, I'm wondering if, over time, the mud would shrink causing the blemishes I now see. These were definitely not like this when I finished.


If this is due to shrinking how do I avoid that when fixing it? Does "45" help?

chrisn

The mud does not shrink after drying.It sounds as if you just painted withiut priming, right? You just need to apple more mud to fill in and make smooth, prime and paint.Forget the 45, you do not need it. Forget the big box stores, you do NOT need their advise.

tpolk

what looks good prepaint can sure not after paint. you may have pulled to much mud when toweling, may over sand a bit. How do the butt joints look if any. Not using good primer, paint and using any kind of sheen will make slight flaws stand out

bjbatlanta

The paint could be the problem as tpolk mentioned. A gloss type paint will highlight any imperfections when "critical" (intense/direct) light hits the mud joints. What type of roller did you use? A very short nap roller doesn't leave much "texture" as it applies the paint (which helps hide the joints) and spraying without "back-rolling" leaves no texture at all. There IS such a thing as "delayed shrinkage". It is only common when mud is applied in cold/damp situations (new construction) where proper heat is not available. Even using "torpedo" heaters doesn't do a good job of drying the mud. The mud dries from the surface down. The first coat LOOKS dry, so the next coats are applied. The walls get painted, further hindering complete drying. Days or even weeks later, often after the actual HVAC system is operational, things dry out and the joints (along with trim, caulk, etc.) finish shrinking. I'm guessing this was not the case for your job, so I'd lean toward the paint/lighting possibility. Pull a tight skim coat on the offending areas. Re-prime the entire surface and paint with a flat latex using a 3/8" or even 1/2" nap roller.

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bjbatlanta

And as far as using the setting type compound (45), it should have been used for at least the first coat over mesh tape to prevent cracking if there's any movement in the framing lumber. A moot point now, so just use ready-mix...

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