DIY Chatroom Home Improvement Forum

DIY Chatroom Home Improvement Forum (http://www.diychatroom.com/)
-   Remodeling (http://www.diychatroom.com/f15/)
-   -   Old House, Thin Walls...New Door Help Please!!! (http://www.diychatroom.com/f15/old-house-thin-walls-new-door-help-please-8511/)

Creek 05-16-2007 11:11 PM

Old House, Thin Walls...New Door Help Please!!!
 
We are currently renovating my kitchen, bath, and one bedroom. The wall between the kitchen and the bedroom is constructed with old 2x4's on their side (wall thickness of 2" + sheet rock). I'd like to install a new prehung door in the wall, but all prehung door casings are a lot wider than my wall thickness allows for. Should I disassemble the prehung and cut the casing or is there a better solution?

send_it_all 05-16-2007 11:38 PM

The term you want to use is jamb. Thats the actual door frame. Casing is the moulding that goes around it after its installed. The door you bought probably has a jamb about 4 and 9/16ths wide, right?

If your wall is 3" thick (2" thick stud, plus 1/2" drywall on each side) you can center the door in the opening, then put some 1X3 or 1X whatever around the door on each side where casing would normally go. 1X material is actually 3/4" thick. One on each side would almost exactly make it perfect, if you have 1/2" drywall and not 5/8 drywall or plaster (you said drywall). I would do the 1X3 thing and then put casing over that. The other option is cutting the jamb narrower, but it will probably look funny. Hope this helped.

AtlanticWBConst. 05-17-2007 05:20 AM

If it is a 2x4 wall as you have described, then it is actually 1 1/2" thick. Adding a 1/2" layer of sheetrock will only bring it out to 2 1/2" thickness.

Other options:

1.) Measure and check to see, if you could purchase a prehung door with jambs that could be trimmed down, while allowing the door to operate properly (prehung door without the casing installed). If the jambs are do-able, take the door out of the frame, then dismantle the frame (jambs), mill the jambs and top frame down to the width you need (use a table saw). Re-assemble with wood glue and 18g staples.

2.) Have a door custom fabricated with a jamb for this wall thickness (if you are lacking in the carpentry skills to properly fabricate one yourself)

3.) Build out the framing of that particular wall (by ferring it out) to a normal wall thickess or slightly greater. (Much easier method for DIY type skill level)

send_it_all 05-17-2007 05:54 AM

I was picturing an old house with actual 2x4s....which is why I had my doubts about it being drywall.

Creek 05-17-2007 08:35 AM

Thanks for the feedback. It is an old house with actual 2x4's which measure 2" x 4". There used to be plaster and lathe on the walls which we removed. We will be putting up drywall in it's place. Hence the new wall thickness of 2" +1" for drywall, hence the question about the new door jambs.

send_it_all 05-17-2007 12:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Creek (Post 45349)
Thanks for the feedback. It is an old house with actual 2x4's which measure 2" x 4". There used to be plaster and lathe on the walls which we removed. We will be putting up drywall in it's place. Hence the new wall thickness of 2" +1" for drywall, hence the question about the new door jambs.

IN YO FACE, ATLANTIC!!!!! just kidding.

AtlanticWBConst. 05-17-2007 12:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by send_it_all (Post 45374)
IN YO FACE, ATLANTIC!!!!! just kidding.

:laughing:

cibula11 05-17-2007 01:19 PM

The wall, even if actual 2x4 would measure 4" + 1" for sheetrock totalling 5". Your door jamb will actually be to short and need to be firred out as referenced. I went to Menards and found a pine screen stock in the moulding dept. It was exactly what I needed and you can barely tell it is there.

send_it_all 05-17-2007 01:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cibula11 (Post 45390)
The wall, even if actual 2x4 would measure 4" + 1" for sheetrock totalling 5". Your door jamb will actually be to short and need to be firred out as referenced. I went to Menards and found a pine screen stock in the moulding dept. It was exactly what I needed and you can barely tell it is there.

If you go back to the original post...op says studs were turned sideways...on the flat...2"

chiller 05-19-2007 07:29 AM

Hello,
I run into this problem all the time with either the 2x4 turned sideways or the 2x4 set the right way. Add the drywall and nothing matches to current construction standards.
Your simplest solution is to go to your local building supply store(Not a big box store) and order a custom jamb width door. In the description you described you would need a width of 3" on the jamb, but check the measurements and discuss the project with the pros at the builders supply.
The pre-hung unit will cost a little more than a regular unit from a big box store, maybe $30 more, but it will fit like a glove, no fiddeling and look professional.
Hope this helps,
Chuck

trptman 05-19-2007 10:16 PM

You know,
If it isn't already too late (if you still have'nt hung the drywall) you could also just add strips of wood to the faces of the studs on the whole wall to in essence make the studs a conventional 3 1/2" thick-and THEN hang your drywall. That way you can use your standard door unit and you also have more room in the wall cavities for switch or rec. boxes, plumbing, hvac, or whatever might be the case.
Not sure if this would work for your specific case, but it would keep the wall and door from looking "funny" because it is so thin. I've run into this and know exactly what you are talking about. It does look a little odd to the eye.


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 04:56 PM.


Copyright 2003-2014 Escalate Media LP. All Rights Reserved