new framing for basement
I'm going to be re-doing my basement soon and I'm looking for some feedback. It's currently thin wood paneling on what I assume is furring strips. It does have electrical boxes so I assume there is ~3inches back there at least, but I don't know if it's much more than that.
I was thinking I'd put Owens Corning FOAMULAR IS insulating sheathing (.5 inch thick) against the exterior wall all the way around, un-interrupted, to create a thermal barrier to avoid sinks at the framing.
Question relating - is there a difference between the foamular-IS, fomaular 150 Rigid XPS and 250 rigid XPS? Any reason I should use one over the other? I thought an R-value of 3 continuous would be good enough to break the loss in total R-Value of concrete on wood contact creates.
Beyond that I would put a composite 2x4 on the sole plate to avoid rot concerns, or pressure treated if I can't find composite. Standard 2x4's for the rest.
I'll run the power and audio lines I want, might hide a few invisible speakers and a 1.5" conduit for future pulls if need be, and than spray in some closed-cell spray foam to fill the void, drywall with paperless mold resistant drywall and be done.
thoughts? anything I'm missing?
I probably won't put the drywall all the way down to the floor and use the trim to go up the first 3 inches or so in case there is a bit of water so it doesn't immediately wick up the drywall.
thoughts and input much appreciated
I was thinking I'd put Owens Corning FOAMULAR IS insulating sheathing (.5 inch thick) against the exterior wall all the way around, un-interrupted, to create a thermal barrier to avoid sinks at the framing.----
need fire-stopping studs every 10' of walls and over the foamboard. http://www.diychatroom.com/f15/vapor...dation-133597/
Beyond that I would put a composite 2x4 on the sole plate to avoid rot concerns, or pressure treated if I can't find composite. Standard 2x4's for the rest.-----
Requires p.t. per code on the slab only. use a sill sealer and ADA drywall to prevent air from reaching concrete. Hold up 1/2" or go with two bottom plates to maintain drywall air seal along bottom plate. Composites are made with resin and......
wood dough---- it molds! LOL.
Lot of moisture coming through the exterior walls, no speakers there... F.b./canned foam the rims, no dryloc, no gaps; http://www.buildingscience.com/docum...l_seal_rev.pdf
thanks for the help!
No basement v.b. required in States. Frame wall tight to foam, with fire-stop studs (additional every -10' lineally)tight to concrete (let-in the foam wall) w. approved vapor barrier to concrete on 1-1/2" edge isolated from sistered layout stud w. sill sealer.Extra studs stop the fire on the foamboard, limiting it to a 10' wide wall section, other materials can sub; hit "next section" after reading: http://publicecodes.citation.com/ico...002_par031.htm
!/2" up w. drywall yet still get an air seal there, higher drywall gap to slab = higher plate height for seal. Sill sealer under p.t. (required) bottom plate: http://www.greenbuildingadvisor.com/...-building-code
First step; permit, then air seal the plumbing/wiring holes through floor above, then rim joist air-sealing, then extra top plate over foam board for f.stop, then wall and verticle fire-stopping material.
You could canned foam the drywall gap to floor but drywall is required to a wood member for fire-stopping. You can't have a foamed gap to a open stud cavity above a bottom plate edge-- defeats the drywall purpose (a 15 minute fire stop; foam or canned foam does not have that fire rating.
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