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dgallagher 10-26-2009 12:29 PM

Needing to widen!
Hey all,

My wife and I are new homeowners and we recently had the opportunity to go buy a new washer and dryer. Well, the good guys over at Lowes got to our condo and we found out that our doorway to the bathroom where the machines are located, has a 24inch opening with the frame and jam on...wihtout it...maybe closer to 27"...we need more than 28" as that is the smallest width of our old and new machines.

ANy help wold be greatly wife in a rage took off the molding already...I think it might be best to extend it to the left now, if we're looking at the door from the side it opened, since there is some damage to the wall there, bt that's also towards the light switch. I think it would be easier to extend to the right since the closest wiring that way is the doorbell chime box, but I've never done anything close to construction or remodeling so this is all very foreign to me.

If the wall is easily...and I'm using that term very loosely with the lack of experience I have...repaired, should we extend to the right? Or should we extend to the left and just cut out the damaged wall?

Also, we're new parents and living on one income, so the least expensive route is preferred, no cutting corners, but if I can do this all alone with help from my wife, we're good, if not....we may be doing lanudry in the living room for some time.

Any help is greatly appreciated.

Thank you!

12penny 10-26-2009 01:07 PM

dg...go to user cp at th top of the page and finish your profile.:whistling2:
I think this is going to be way more involved than you had anticipated.

I'm confused as to which is left or right and a pic or two would really help.

Is this wall load bearing?
What tools do you have available?
Was your house built before 1978?

Scuba_Dave 10-26-2009 01:14 PM

If its not a load bearing wall it is fairly easy
But easy can still be a pain
30" is the min door I will put in, prefer 32"

If its not load bearing you cut the studs/drywall out, put a new stud in & put the pre-hung door in
BUT - you need to be careful of existing wiring/plumbing that may be in those hidden cavities

dgallagher 10-26-2009 01:27 PM

Hi 12penny, thanks for the quick reply...

Alright, here goes,

I'll finish my profile, I'm at work so I'll try anyway.

I don't have pictures here today, but I'll try to get some for tomorrow.

I don't think it's load bearing as it come up short from actually extending the length of the condo. It goes to the bedroom and the living room, but there's no extension to either.

I have a very basic set of home tools purchased from Fred Meyers and access to some more at my inlaws, but not sure of what all is there.

I beleive it was built in 74.

When I say left and right, I'm refering to standing in the bathroom looking at the door, it would swing into the bathroom, and the knob is on the left. So to the left of the door, there's the light switch about 1 foot away and to the right, there is nothing for about 4 feet, it enters into the laundry area abot 6 inches to the right. On the outside of the bathroom, looking at the door. The right side is now where the light switch would be on the other side of the wall and to the left, there's about 4 feet and then living room and about 2 feet over and by the ceiling is the doorbell chime box.

I know there's not much info provided or any pictures yet, but your help is greatly appreciated and we'll take all the help we can get.

Thanks again!


12penny 10-26-2009 01:43 PM

dg...I'd still feel better seeing pictures before we decide load bearing or not. Some of the bathroom side as well.

dgallagher 10-26-2009 01:46 PM

Will do, I'll try to get my wife to send some pictures through the phone, if they show up ok, I'll post them, if not, we'll upload some tonight.

Thanks agian for you help 12penny and for the tips dave!

dgallagher 10-26-2009 03:55 PM

some pics...
4 Attachment(s)
Here are some pictures, I'll pt some more up in a minute...

dgallagher 10-26-2009 03:57 PM

...more pics...
3 Attachment(s)
Here's the rest...if you need more I can upload more tomorrow...thanks for the help guys!

12penny 10-28-2009 09:51 AM

dg...I think I'd go toward the vanity. Still cant tell if its a bearing wall. Please make sure before demo. Check ceiling joists for direction of travel.

dgallagher 10-28-2009 10:48 AM

Thanks 12 penny, so, how do I tell if it's a load bearing wall? What should I do in regards to going towards the vanity as the light switch is in that direction? How do I check the ceiling joists?

Again, thanks for all the help!


12penny 10-28-2009 12:39 PM

dg....if you have attic access, do the ceiling joists run parallel to the wall or do they cross it. If they cross do the ends of the joists rest on it? Is that another interior wall accross the hall? Do the ends rest on that one.

dgallagher 10-28-2009 12:44 PM

No attic access, there's maybe a foot of space between our ceiling and the outside, possibly a bit less...

12penny 10-28-2009 01:39 PM're probably okay to go ahead with what you want to do. Remove the old jamb. Remove the drywall from above the door and to which ever side you decide on, both sides. Which ever way you go, remove the jack stud then the king stud and finally take the header down. Go buy your door and make your opening 1/2" wider than the new jamb. This allows for shims. Install new king stud, longer header and finally jack stud. Hang your new door, drywall, tape, mud and call it a day.

Take it apart slowly and carefully, put it back together the same way.

And I'd still feel better if I knew which way the joists/rafters ran.

Gary in WA 10-30-2009 07:18 PM

Look out back to see where the rafter tails are: in line or perpendicular? If closed soffits, which way does the roof slope- side to side or front to back? Look under the house to see if said wall has a double joist under it- if so it is load bearing. If perpendicular to the floor joists, probably load bearing.
Be safe, Gary

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