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-   -   Need to Jack up part of my house.... (http://www.diychatroom.com/f15/need-jack-up-part-my-house-2972/)

harleysilo 07-06-2006 09:50 AM

Need to Jack up part of my house....
 
So I would like to jack up part of my house and have some questions....

To give you and idea of what I am dealing with here are some pics... sorry you'll have to click on them.

This is the house, built in 1987, full basement unfinished everything on main level, additional bedroom and bathroom in attic...

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...ruction018.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...ruction018.jpg

This is the kitchen area where I have already jacked and re-hung offending joists...

The main red line shows where the slope starts, about 6-12" further away is the main beam of the house.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...loorarrows.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...loorarrows.jpg

The main beam also runs through the entry way, and in this pic, to the left of the beam, same side as kitchen, the floor slopes as indicated...

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...ywayarrows.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...ywayarrows.jpg


Here is what I believe to be the problem with the original construction of the joist and beam...

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...istdiagram.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...istdiagram.jpg


So I figure I need to jack up the remaining 15 or so joists, half of which support a wall, and there is another 2 joists side by side under this wall in the kitchen...

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...holeinwall.jpg

I've read some online aritcles that inform me of how to go about the process, in a nutshell I plan to

1) Insert pieces of 2X10's between all joists in questions so they don't twist while jacking.
2) use 4x6 beams attached to bottom of joists to jack multiple joists at a time
3) use 1/4" steel plates under jacks and shores, between jack and jacking post (4X6)
4) no more than 1/8" every couple days
5) build new wall under joists next to orig beam to support everything

I only need to raise everything 1/2"

What am I missing?

I would like to get an idea of how much weight it all is. Would 10,000 lbs. shoring posts be strong enough if I had say 4-6 of them spread out along the run of joists? Would a 20 ton jack be enought, Can I start on one end and work towards the other, or do I need like 4 jacks?

Any help is appreciated!!

joed 07-06-2006 09:11 PM

What is under the new wall you plan to build? Will it support the weight? If it is only the concrete floor it may not be suitable. You may need to break the floor and install a footing.

redline 07-07-2006 05:47 AM

It appears that the floor joists do not have joist hangers. Start by installing joist hangers and then a support beam.

harleysilo 07-07-2006 11:03 AM

3 Attachment(s)
Thanks all, the wall will go over/on the basement floor. With joist hangers installed, and then the wall wouldn't be supporting soooooo much weight, no way I'm putting in afooter. Here's so updated pics...

My strategy for floor jacking, 4 sets of what you see in the drawing.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...Jacksystem.jpg


Kitchen floor already done, with new hangers.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2.../basement1.jpg


The previous HO diy'er wall to stop the sagging, the same location I intend to build a proper wall.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2.../basement5.jpg
Thoughts?

redline 07-07-2006 01:41 PM

How thick is the main beam? Unable to tell by the picture.
The main beam should be able to handle the weight of the joists if properly speced by an architect.
How you added any major weight above these points?
Have you added a larger whirpool tub or other heavy item that would make the joists fail?
Have any support (load bearing) walls been removed from near this area?

harleysilo 07-07-2006 02:55 PM

The Main beam is 3 2x12's nailed/glued together. It spans about 40 ft i'd guess, rests on the concrete basement wall on one end, runs over 2 round metal posts and terminates at a wall. Nothing heavy has been added by us, nothing has been taken away either. All walls in basement are not original, except one, the one the beam terminates on.

I think the wall is not neccesary as you may be suggesting, as it was built this way originally. I don't have to build it, frankly it would be nice not to have the wall.

It has been my dads suggestions, althought I have argued if it was built to code and to the design specifications, it should be fine with just new joist hangers. He pointed out that it failed so maybe it wan't built to specifications, or they were wrong. I pointed out it was nailed enought, he agreed. We don't know the proper answer.

The beam is not sagging, nor does it appear defective in any way to my untrained eyes. They joist however are obviously not where they were originally....

redline 07-07-2006 06:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by harleysilo
.

I think the wall is not neccesary as you may be suggesting, as it was built this way originally. I don't have to build it, frankly it would be nice not to have the wall.

It has been my dads suggestions, althought I have argued if it was built to code and to the design specifications, it should be fine with just new joist hangers. He pointed out that it failed so maybe it wan't built to specifications, or they were wrong. I pointed out it was nailed enought, he agreed. We don't know the proper answer.

The beam is not sagging, nor does it appear defective in any way to my untrained eyes. They joist however are obviously not where they were originally....


If the main beam is level and sound then just raise (jack) the joist(s) up to the proper level and then install the joist hangers. You may want to place the jack about a foot or two back from the main beam but located under the joist. This will give you room to install the joist hangers and nail them properly. Joist hangers are superior to the 2 by 2 that the joists rest on now. When you install the joist hangers you must use the proper size nails and you must have a nail in all the holes in the hanger for proper load support.

harleysilo 07-08-2006 09:46 PM

Well, $300 later and about 9 hrs by myself and jacking has comenced....

I'll post the results on Monday, pics included....

Looks like my 3 setups are getting all joist except the one under one wall, so one more 20 ton'er on the end of one 4x6 beam and that should do it.

harleysilo 07-10-2006 09:52 AM

So Jacking comenced this weekend... one of three setups...

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...kingnow007.jpg

Pic doesn't show it, but success regard the kitchen wall

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...kingnow001.jpg

Re-hung floor joist after jacking...., double joist under kitchen wall fully nailed, replaced 2x2 ledger, however I left one jack under that joist which will be removed once the support wall is built..

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...kingnow010.jpg

So the other wall in question didn't really move as expected, this wall, between to openings, place one foot away from main beam, on the floor joists...

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...kingnow005.jpg

So I happened to bump into the metal post that was originally installed underneath the main beam (there are two), sure enough, in the process the main beam rose about .5 inch. Metal post just hanging there by two nails. So I secured the joists under the kitchen wall and let everything back down onto the metal post, allbeit everything (floor joists) are still .5 inch higher than the were before I started...as evident in this pic of the previous DIY'er wall header staying attached to the jacked joists.

harleysilo 07-10-2006 09:53 AM

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...kingnow013.jpg

So, I'm at a crossroads, I can either call it quits on the jacking, I've got the major area of concern (wall in kitchen) "fixed". This would require I use some SLC in my tile installation, no biggee, or I can hang the joists underneath the two large openings leading to living room, reposition my jack to concentrat on lifting only the wall.

Best pic I could come up with to descripe it...
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...alldiagram.jpg

redline 07-10-2006 09:05 PM

"So the other wall in question didn't really move as expected, this wall, between to openings, place one foot away from main beam, on the floor joists..."



Is this a load bearing wall to the second floor?



(the pictures are a little dark - difficult to see the results)

harleysilo 07-11-2006 08:58 AM

Yes, I think (read that don't really know but don't see how it couldn't be) it is a load bearing wall to 2nd floor.

redline 07-23-2006 10:59 PM

That wall should have been located on the main beam. If there is considerable amount weight on the second floor (ie. large bathroom tub, whirlpool...) then this would put more strain on these lower floor joists.

May want to located a support wall under these joists for additional support.

:thumbsup:

harleysilo 07-31-2006 01:28 PM

Well here's some pics of the new load bearing wall I built in place of the other crappy wall.....

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...project006.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...project003.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...project004.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...project008.jpg

So 90% of the un-level floor was fixed in the jacking process. I believe this wall plus all the joist hangers will prevent any further movement, so it's time for more plywood upstairs, and the hanging of kitchen cabinets! Yea!

redline 07-31-2006 02:02 PM

Did you just buy this house?


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