Need Help With Framing Nailer

Stingray

Hello , I am having some trouble with my framing nailer. Today I began my basement framing by installing the blocking in between my perimeter floor joists. I measured,cut, then tapped them into place. But when I nail them, they move. Is there a trick to keeping them still while using the nail gun? I am going to be putting up studs in the next couple of days and I don't want them moving as well when I use the gun. Any advice would be fantastic.

AtlanticWBConst.

Easy. As long as your cuts are "dead on' and the proper 'snug' measurement. The gun will kick a 'snug' piece of stock about 1/8" rearwards (away from the direction the nose piece is facing). What you do is simply, place the stock approximately 1/8" towards the opposite direction that you know the force of the gun will kick the stock.
If for some reason, it doesn't kick it as far, simply use your hammer to tap it back to the point or mark that you want it to be at.
Then, toe-nail from the side (perpendicular to the initial nail or nails) ..... to 'lock' it at the point you want it to be....

Also, don't be afraid to hold the stock in place firmly....just make sure that you keep any fingers (or other body members that you don't want to lose) away from the nail length (this depends on the length of nail you are using) See the next point about this;

Safety tip: When using a nail gun: realize that a nail can hit a hard knot in the wood that can 'arch' a nail in a different direction that you may not expect. Keep your 'nose pickers' .... safely way from the distance that the nails you are using can bend (.... as much as 360 degrees backwards..... and 'break' thru the wood stock)

(FWIW - It happened to me once while framing....... It also happened to a fellow GC once and it only 'nipped' his finger. He didn't take care of it properly at the time and it got infected....He ended up being ok tho...)

__________________
- Build Well -

joasis

The technique Atlantic is describing is dead on...something that is really a learned skill.....angle of the gun is everything....just remeber to use a lot of caution.....you can split a 2X and get a surprise you won't be expecting....also, never, NEVER use your foot to hold a stud in place and shoot from the opposite side.

__________________

Stingray

Ok, I think I understand now. More questions though.

1. What angle should I be toenailing at and what length of nail?
I have 2 3/8th and 3 inch nails both galvininzed. Also when I toenailed my blocking the nail did not go all the way into the wood, should I adjust the pressure and depth setting? or just use a hammer to finish? The gun has no problem driving nails in completely when nailng staight on.

2. I do have the "How to Remodel a Basement" book. It says , when using a nailgun to only toenail the studs on one side using 2 nails VS using a hammer and placing 2 nails on one side and 1 on the other. Is this a good practice to only nail one side?

3. How do you snap a chalkline when your wall is 36 feet long? haha

joasis

The angle can vary, depending on the specie of wood being nailed....like SPF studs can be about 45 degrees from 90....less for doug fir...which can split if not a tight grain.

The quality of studs has really dropped in the last several years due to the size of trees harvisted...it is very rare to see top quality 1's and 2's in framing lumber....

My preference is to nail both sides....this is also something learned as a way to take out some twist in a stud.....

We do long chalk lines all the time...the trick is have 3 people...2 holding the line tight, another to "snap" the line in a few places to make sure you have it lined clearly.

__________________

Stingray

Cool, man am I glad I found this website. Thank you Joasis and Atlantic for your help.