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Old 08-01-2013, 10:50 AM   #1
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My Garage Rebuild (frame/insulate/floor/electric/walls/doors/HVAC/everything)


I think my Garage Build thread belongs here more than it does on Garage Journal since it will be me asking a lot of questions vs showing off what someone built. Is Remodeling the right forum?

I am getting ready to start a complete garage rehab of my ~22'x24' 2-car attached garage. House built in 1965. I think the garage was built at the same time. Current structure is concrete floor, block walls and drywall ceiling and just a few electric outlets.

The project will including floor leveling/paint, adding framed insulated walls inside the block walls, adding LOTS more electric outlets, lighting, heat, AC, some more exterior lights, plus two new garage doors, a new exterior "side" man door, and possibly a new entry (garage into family room) man door. Once that is done, I'll be refurbishing cabinets from the old kitchen, too. Doing most of the work myself, I figure this will take several months (or years) to complete.

I had been planning to do a lot of this as small separate projects like the installation of some new exterior garage lights first. The wife already bought the lights and is nagging me about them. But the more I think about this I think I should draw up plans, pull the permits, and do this in the correct order...the right way. Design and plan out the whole thing and then take things one step at a time.

So, here we go with a not-to-scale sketch showing the structure and my proposed design. Google sketchup and more details to follow.
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Old 08-01-2013, 11:05 AM   #2
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Also, this is a working garage. I'll be welding, painting, hammering, cutting/grinding, tearing down engines, etc. There won't be a sofa or bar in here.

The sink is an old (existing) laundry room type wash sink. There used to be a laundry room in the corner. Water, sewer/vent, and electric hookups are still there. There was evidence of walls on the ceiling but I painted over most of that when I painted/sealed the block walls a couple years ago. I will probably replace that sink with something else. I have a sink base cabinet from my old kitchen.

I'm planning to do high lift/clearance torsion spring garage doors so that I can add a 2-post lift in the future. The doors are original wood and need to go.

Most of the 120V electric that I put on that drawing is proposed. I think there are only three 120V receptacles in there. The two 240V drops are already there and will probably get moved. I think the one next to the electric panel would make more sense between the garage doors since that's the side where I do the messy work.

The tire rack will likely stay put. I might pull it down to insulate that wall but it will go back up. I have 3 sets of tires for the racecar.

Question #1: Speaking of that wall, my first design question is whether or not to frame/insulate around the chimney and the wall between the garage and the house. It is not insulated on the house side. The wall is block with a brick fireplace (floor to ceiling) in the family room and the other half of that wall (near the sink) has furring strips and drywall (no insulation) in the home office. Both of those rooms have been recently redone so no changes coming there. The chimney is for a gas fireplace that doesn't get used, HWH and furnace.

Last edited by mystic_cobra; 08-01-2013 at 11:09 AM.
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Old 08-01-2013, 12:05 PM   #3
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If I'm understanding your question right it's about the progression.
1 The first thing I would do is sit down with an electrician since what you are proposing is pretty aggressive. Tell him your plans because some of what proposed will require running 240v lines you may need to add a sub panel.
2 Then I would make my cuts for the door and anything else that needs access to the outside.
3 The framing
4 Install new a/c, heat, new doors (to inside and outside)
5 Electric
6 Insulation
7 Drywall or at this point you may want to consider plywood or shiplap on the walls then if you want to mount cabinets or anything else you don't have to worry about the location of studs.
8 Paint
To level the floor I am assuming you are using a self leveling compound so that can really be done at any stage.
These are only suggestions, others will be along to tweak these or they may have better plans Choose what works best for you. Just be careful to schedule so you don't end up tearing out completed work to do something else that could have been done when the walls were open. Hope this helps.
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Old 08-01-2013, 12:15 PM   #4
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My Garage Rebuild (frame/insulate/floor/electric/walls/doors/HVAC/everything)


Here are a few pics of my garage makeover for woodworking. You might find some inspiration that you can adapt to your situation.
Good luck with your remodel.
Mike
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Old 08-01-2013, 12:26 PM   #5
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Here are a few pics of my garage makeover for woodworking. You might find some inspiration that you can adapt to your situation.
Good luck with your remodel.
Mike
Nice work.
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Old 08-01-2013, 01:29 PM   #6
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First, thanks for the reply. My comments below in blue...
Quote:
Originally Posted by ToolSeeker View Post
If I'm understanding your question right it's about the progression.
1 The first thing I would do is sit down with an electrician since what you are proposing is pretty aggressive. Tell him your plans because some of what proposed will require running 240v lines you may need to add a sub panel.
* Lot's of stuff spinning around in my head that I left out...I recently had a new electric panel installed in the garage so I have plenty of room in the panel and I will be doing all the electric myself. I'm an advanced DIYer. I just finished a complete kitchen redo including moving walls, electric, hvac, cabinets, etc. The only thing we hired out for was installing the granite. I already have the 240V circuits live so that will just be a relocate.

2 Then I would make my cuts for the door and anything else that needs access to the outside.
* Doors are already there. I'll just be replacing them. They are 48 years old.
3 The framing
4 Install new a/c, heat, new doors (to inside and outside)
5 Electric
6 Insulation
7 Drywall or at this point you may want to consider plywood or shiplap on the walls then if you want to mount cabinets or anything else you don't have to worry about the location of studs.
* Still going back and forth between drywall and wood. Most of the walls will be covered but I really HATE sanding/mudding.
8 Paint
To level the floor I am assuming you are using a self leveling compound so that can really be done at any stage.
* The floor has humps in the middle of where the cars park. It's kinda strange. Difference from tire to center of car in some areas is and inch or two. I will post pics once I clean out the garage and get it measured. Laser level??? I'd like to grind down the humps if possible. I've never done concrete work. There are no cracks. I'll be looking for help from experts on this. I do plan to use epoxy-coat on it.
These are only suggestions, others will be along to tweak these or they may have better plans Choose what works best for you. Just be careful to schedule so you don't end up tearing out completed work to do something else that could have been done when the walls were open. Hope this helps.
* I'm working on the plan and schedule (and budget- lol) now.
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Old 08-01-2013, 01:59 PM   #7
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You need to make sure that the ceiling and the wall between the house and garage is fire rated. Fire rated self closing door to house.

Your compressor should be moved away from the house wall (noise). Consider piping air lines around the garage.

Find out if your current floor is strong enough for a lift.

Ventilation for fumes?

Smoke detector

I envy you.....
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Old 08-01-2013, 02:14 PM   #8
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Responding inline...
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Originally Posted by 47_47 View Post
You need to make sure that the ceiling and the wall between the house and garage is fire rated. Fire rated self closing door to house.
* I will check both of these things. I am planning to pull permits so I will get inspected. Hopefully, these things would come up. A self closing door in a residence? Never seen that.
Your compressor should be moved away from the house wall (noise). Consider piping air lines around the garage.
* I'd love to put that compressor in a silent box. Maybe I'll build an enclosure for it under a work bench.
Find out if your current floor is strong enough for a lift.
* From what I've read, you need 3000 psi, 4 inches minimum. I guess I need to drill to find out. Not sure how to test compressive strength.
Ventilation for fumes?
* I read this on another thread but not sure if I can justify it. I can open the doors pretty cheaply. I guess it will be different once I have a sealed climate controlled space. I wonder if I can get one that vents into the attic instead of cutting a giant hole in the brick/block (this would require additional oversight with the wife).
Smoke detector
* Duh, why haven't I added one already. Do they make special ones for a garage? I feel like it would go off all the time.
I envy you.....
* Thanks, I think. Really looking forward to this being done. Not looking forward to all the late nights that come with it. The space has become very congested and hard to use since moving the old cabinets out there following the kitchen project. I have the racecar, motorcycle, table saw and an entire kitchen worth of cabinets in there plus my tool boxes, shelves, cabinets, etc. I can't take it anymore. So I have to put the racing on hold and get this project done. I thought I could do the kitchen in 6 months and it took 18. This should only take a few weeks, right?
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Old 08-04-2013, 11:58 PM   #9
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Next question: Do I want to paint (planning to use Epoxy Coat with chips) the floor before I put up the walls or after?
I was thinking do the entire floor first (grinding, cleaning, priming, "paint") so that I can put the framing for the walls on a floor that is sealed. BUT then I have to worry about tearing up the floor and spilling paint and other crap on it while building the walls.

What's best?
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Old 08-13-2013, 01:22 PM   #10
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I am planning to install a lift eventually and am looking at repouring two deeper pads to support the lift since my floor is just 3.5" thick.

I just called to get an estimate from a local concrete company. The guy there quoted me $350 (including a $200 "short order" fee) for one yard of 3000 psi concrete delivered and $360 for 5000 psi concrete.

I told him what I was planning with the lift and two support pads and he was shocked that I was considering tackling the concrete work as a DIYer. I told him I was going to do the prep work based on what I'd seen others do and I told him I would handle the finishing as well. He said there's "no way in hell" he'd get under a car on a lift installed by me or any other DIYer or first-timer. He said I was nuts for considering 3000 psi concrete even after I told him that was the manufacturers minimum spec.

Is there a lot more to this or is this guy just trying to scare me off?
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Old 08-16-2013, 08:44 PM   #11
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There is no rocket science to concrete.

Get the manufacturers specs on the lift, add something to it, excavate to undisturbed, throw in some re-bar, and pour.

You'll be fine.
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Old 08-16-2013, 09:17 PM   #12
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Quote:
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There is no rocket science to concrete.

Get the manufacturers specs on the lift, add something to it, excavate to undisturbed, throw in some re-bar, and pour.

You'll be fine.
When you say "add something to it" do you mean overdesign it some?
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Old 08-16-2013, 09:57 PM   #13
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Roger.
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Old 10-09-2013, 07:35 PM   #14
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So, this is the area above and beside my chimney (top right) where the attic above the garage meets the interior of the house (top left). Ignore the water damage, I'm working on that currently.
The chimney is about 7 feet wide below here and 3.5 ft wide here. Do I need to do anything with this open space to the house to seal it before putting insulation back in here?
If you lean down and look carefully (in the attic but not visible in the pic), some red brick is visible in there which I guess I is on the "exterior" of the house between the living room below and bedroom above and the garage. I've never installed bricks so I don't know how much separation/insulation is in that wall. There are bedrooms on the other side of there.

What, if anything, should I add here for insulation to separate this attic space from the house? In the (similar) attic space on the other end of the house, I insulated this area with hardboard and foil taped the seams. But I'm not sure there is heat coming through here like there was on the other side. This side DOES face south so it gets a lot of direct sun during the day. Maybe I need to take some temp readings on a sunny day to see how much heat is getting through.




Last edited by mystic_cobra; 10-17-2013 at 11:07 PM. Reason: clarity
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Old 10-17-2013, 11:11 PM   #15
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Any help with the sealing question?
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