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kimbhoot 09-13-2012 01:12 PM

My Basement Project - Framing
 
2 Attachment(s)
Hello diyers,
So I've been planning on starting on my basement project for a while now finally started framing last week. I've never done any framing myself but I've done my research and feel comfortable starting the basic walls. As for soffits and tricky corners, I may have to ask the experts here or call a professional.
I'll post periodic updates and pictures here hoping experts to tell me what I'm doing right or wrong.

I've had a discussion with a Home Depot manager who is a building contractor himself. he mentioned I don't require any insulation, just put plastic moisture/vapor barrier for my location. I'm in Kansas City btw. my basement does not feel damp and haven't had any water/dampness issues yet. The house was built towards the end of 2008. I've attached photos of my first 16' wall that I just raised.

Thanks for looking.

hammerlane 09-13-2012 01:28 PM

ARe the crown of the studs all the same way...crown facing toward the inactive side of the wall which would be the outside wall?

kimbhoot 09-13-2012 05:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hammerlane (Post 1009112)
ARe the crown of the studs all the same way...crown facing toward the inactive side of the wall which would be the outside wall?

The lumber I used for this wall are very straight and yes I tried to put the bow/crown in the same direction.

kimbhoot 09-13-2012 11:00 PM

not square
 
My first roadblock :furious:

Turns out that the framing wasn't aligned properly as I was trying to put the second frame. my frame wasn't right up against the right wall and I didn't use a plumb bob to check if it was straight (my first framing :( ).

Long story short, I need to move the top an inch to the right or the bottom an inch to the left. I'm thinking the top would be comparatively easier to move? There are 12 joists that I nailed this frame to and 5 nails driven using powder actuated nailer. What are my options at this point?

picflight 09-13-2012 11:19 PM

Why does one have to create walls in the basement? Why not create a floating or hanging roof and finish the floor? Wouldn't that create a place to hang out?

What is that white piece behind your frame?

Sent from my iPhone using DIY Forum

andybeck 09-14-2012 11:35 AM

1 Attachment(s)
Kim,

I have also recently started the job of finishing my basement but did things a little differently than you are.

I was told not to use plastic sheeting against the foundation as that will only trap moisture and eventually lead to mildew. I ended up using paper faced batt insulation. From what I was told, the paper on the insulation acts as the moisture barrier.

I also did not frame directly against the concrete foundation walls. I did not build the walls in sections and raise them into position. Instead I placed the bottom plate (which needs to be treated lumber) about two inches away from the foundation wall. I then added the vertical studs on each end, the top plate, followed by the studs in between. I don't know if this method is the preferred way but it worked very well for me. The benefit that I realized was that the plumbness of the exterior walls was irrelevant to the plumbness of my walls. When you leave a space, you can ensure that each stud that you put up is level and that the corners are truely 90 degrees.

As far as your problem goes, I don't know how you can unattach the stud wall without causing a great deal of damage. The only option that I see is to cut the top plate between each joist and pry the remaining nailed pieces out from the joists. This way you would only need to replace the top plate. I used screws for all of my framing which probably took longer and was more expensive but was nice for instances like this.

I am no expert, I just thought I would share a little bit of my experience in my basement. Here is a pic also of my framing.

Good luck,
Andy

kimbhoot 09-14-2012 01:33 PM

Thanks for the reply. I'm thinking in the same direction to cut the top plate but since it's tightly jammed in there, I'm not sure how easy it would be to to pry the nails out without damaging the studs.
btw, your framing job looks really nice and clean.


Quote:

Originally Posted by andybeck (Post 1009780)
Kim,

As far as your problem goes, I don't know how you can unattach the stud wall without causing a great deal of damage. The only option that I see is to cut the top plate between each joist and pry the remaining nailed pieces out from the joists. This way you would only need to replace the top plate. I used screws for all of my framing which probably took longer and was more expensive but was nice for instances like this.

I am no expert, I just thought I would share a little bit of my experience in my basement. Here is a pic also of my framing.

Good luck,
Andy


kimbhoot 09-14-2012 01:39 PM

that's how it's done around here! don't ask me why as I'm not qualified to answer the question. that white thing was my projector screen that I painted on the wall.


Quote:

Originally Posted by picflight (Post 1009490)
Why does one have to create walls in the basement? Why not create a floating or hanging roof and finish the floor? Wouldn't that create a place to hang out?

What is that white piece behind your frame?

Sent from my iPhone using DIY Forum


chrisBC 09-15-2012 12:12 AM

You want to move the wall plumb and it is nailed to the joists above?

Why not just cut the nails with a sawzall, putting the blade in between the topplate and the joist or blocking. Tap it plumb and re-nail. A chalkline along the joists would be a good idea as well.

kimbhoot 09-15-2012 12:58 AM

problem solved! :thumbup: used hacksaw and was able to cut the nails and move and straighten the studs :D now my total upper body is sore!

Gary in WA 09-15-2012 12:59 AM

Find Zone: http://publicecodes.cyberregs.com/ic..._11_par002.htm

Base. ins.= http://publicecodes.cyberregs.com/ic..._11_sec002.htm

R-13 (cavity) required per code (minimum). No vapor barrier. A, B, C; http://www.buildingfoundation.umn.ed...jectReview.htm

Pick your wall, follow it through the article, pp. 7: http://www.buildingscience.com/docum...study-analysis
Try a "search" in the white box- top of any page- eg. "basement insulation".

Gary

kimbhoot 09-16-2012 02:25 AM

A bit confusing but what I got out of the articles is, according to code, I shouldn't use vapor barrier.
I'm in zone 4A and my basement wall R value is 10/13. so what's the best way to handle the vapor? leave it open or are there any material available that takes care of it. I know the house has moisture treatment applied on the outside walls. please advise.


Quote:

Originally Posted by GBR in WA (Post 1010173)
Find Zone: http://publicecodes.cyberregs.com/ic..._11_par002.htm

Base. ins.= http://publicecodes.cyberregs.com/ic..._11_sec002.htm

R-13 (cavity) required per code (minimum). No vapor barrier. A, B, C; http://www.buildingfoundation.umn.ed...jectReview.htm

Pick your wall, follow it through the article, pp. 7: http://www.buildingscience.com/docum...study-analysis
Try a "search" in the white box- top of any page- eg. "basement insulation".

Gary


hand drive 09-16-2012 11:04 AM

you will also need some fire block foam or fire caulking and put it at the backside of the top of the wall plate where the space between the new wall plate and concrete block wall is. this stops drafts from entering the floor cavity above if ever there was a fire that got into the wall down there. fire foam is easier to work with than fire caulk...

kimbhoot 09-16-2012 01:36 PM

inside and outside corners
 
I've seen several ideas for framing inside and outside corners. any recommended methods? (pictures appreciated)

hand drive 09-16-2012 09:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kimbhoot (Post 1010995)
I've seen several ideas for framing inside and outside corners. any recommended methods? (pictures appreciated)

double stud on the outside corner. for a taller wall, at about the center of the wall add blocking in the stud bays that tie the outside corner to the rest of the wall.

a good and strong inside corner consists of.. on one wall put two ganged up studs in with 3 or 4 2x blocks spacing the 2 studs to 4 1/2" ( imagine 3 studs nailed together but the blocks take the place of the middle stud) .
on the other wall add one stud that nails to the ganged up studs. there will be 1 1/2" for drywall to nail to coming out of the corner of the wall and the other side will have 1" to nail drywall to.
you can also pre build the inside corner first and then put it into the wall...


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