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Maine1 12-18-2012 02:10 PM

Looks like I need to rebuild a wall..
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Pulled the drywall and found the bottom of thos framing all rotten. No water leaks from the plumbing. Must be from sitting right on the concrete.
I would hate to disturb the bathroom wall on the other side. Is it okay if I just cut the wall in half horizontally and then build the lower half again with some support and a hotizontal beam in the middle?

Duckweather 12-18-2012 02:34 PM

Can't really tell, is it rotted or just discolored? can you stick a knife into it easily? You might consider cutting the studs off just enough to get 2 or 3 new PT shoes under it. More stable than cutting the wall near the middle. I would also soak everything with bleach to kill any fungus.

Maine1 12-18-2012 02:38 PM

Some of the wood crumbles, I can break apart with my fingers mostly the one along the floor. Some of the studs up from the floor have some rot too, only about 6 inches or so.

Dutchrudder 12-18-2012 06:20 PM

If you're going to cut that bottom 3rd off and replace it then just be careful with how you cut it. A reciprocating saw will likely vibrate the studs so badly it will damage what ever is attached to the other side. I'd use a pressure treated plate if you're going to put it directly on concrete. That's what I would do

tylernt 12-19-2012 01:16 PM

Even with a new PT sole plate, the PT could transfer moisture from the concrete to the regular wood studs. PT just means it won't rot, it doesn't make it waterproof. Some sort of capillary break between the sole plate and concrete would be a good idea, such as tar paper, or heavy mil vapor barrier, etc. Or if you've got some extra Dry-Loc, RedGuard, or similar product laying around, you could just paint the concrete side of the sole plate with it.

And when rehanging drywall, make certain you leave a gap (say, 1/4") between the drywall and the concrete.

As for the studs, I'd make an equal number of 18" and 12" long 2x4s. Attach each 12" to an 18" to make a 4x4 sandwich like this:


Then I'd cut 12" off the bottom of the rotted stud and slide the sandwich into place. If there's a gap between the stud and the 12" part of the sandwich, shim it. Then the 6" 2x4 bit sticking up from the sandwich sisters onto the existing stud, so you get this:


(And of course, toenail the bottom into the sole.)

Note, I assume this is for a non-load-bearing partition wall. I've no idea what code requires for a load-bearing wall.

Maine1 12-19-2012 01:21 PM

Great advice! Thanks, I will do just that! And no, it is not a load bearing wall, thankfully!

chrisBC 12-24-2012 04:00 PM

I would think it would be faster to just replace the bottom plate and studs completely than some splice job cutting the wall in half. Plus it will be done right. Looks like less than a couple hours work, why not just do a proper job. Just my opinion, it's your house. Or if you can't remove the studs completely-maybe something is fastened to the other side-cut out rotten bits, sister a stud to the side of each one (I'd go full length with the sistered stud) and fill in the cut out area.

Up here we staple a "foam gasket" to the sill plate when in contact with concrete, does the job and meets code.

Maine1 12-24-2012 04:14 PM

The tub surround and drywall above it is fastened to those wall studs from the other side. I am trying not to disturb the bathroom on the other side of this wall.

chrisBC 12-24-2012 04:16 PM

In that case, personally I would cut out the rot, replace bottom plate- and then sister studs onto the ones that have been cut, filling in the cut away area, be it 12'' or whatever.

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