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ratherbefishing 12-29-2011 12:18 AM

"letting in" to studs
I want to "let in" a 2x12 into an existing stud wall, to use as support for a bench. Drywall is off one side. I figure I can nibble it out with a circular saw, then knock the waste out with a hammer. Clean up with a RO sander for glue. Or, sister a 2x4 scrap to the side, use a router, remove the sister. Any better/easier ideas?

chrisBC 12-29-2011 01:32 AM

I don't really understand-if you want the 2x12 to be flush to the studs, i'd just nail it in blocking.

If you want it to stick out a big and want to notch it into the framing, i'd just make a bunch of passes with a skilsaw set at depth, after you chalk lines of the size. Then clean up with a chisel. If you are worried about keeping the skillsaw strait and not cutting into the wood more than you want, then run it along a board screwed onto the studs.

ratherbefishing 12-30-2011 10:55 PM

Yeah, Chris, I need the 2x12 to end up flush with the studs. It will end up behind cement board and tile, to support a shower seat. Multiple cuts, 1.5" deep, then knock out the waste. I was wondering if there's a way to get the bottom of the cut cleaner, for a glue joint. I can clean it up with a chisel or sander. First, I figured I'd see if anyone had a quicker or better way.

woodworkbykirk 12-30-2011 11:12 PM

theres absolutely no problem with letting into studs. if you have a steady hand you can do it with a laminate trimmer equipped with a straight cut bit also.

but making multiple kerfs in the studs will work, you jut have to clean up the joint a little bit with a chisel

Bud Cline 12-30-2011 11:22 PM

abracaboom 12-31-2011 05:42 AM

Making 1-1/2" deep cuts every inch or so, knocking the waste off with a hammer, and cleaning it up a bit with a chisel is all you need. You'd be wasting your time trying to smooth what's left of the 2x4 with a router, because you don't need a glue joint there. If you still want it smooth, a sharp chisel will always beat a router for doing that job.

ratherbefishing 12-31-2011 09:15 AM

Bud, thanks for the link. But this is a folding bench, and it cantilevers off the framing. I've got a nice chunk of 2x12 left over. I figured I'd let it into the studs, glue and screw.

woodworkbykirk 12-31-2011 09:35 AM

routers are used for this sort of thing all the time abra, for mortising hinges, cutting out rough openings in sheathing and all sorts of joinery tasks.,. set the router to depth on a plunge base and go. theres too much tuning time for the depth with a chisel.

titanoman 12-31-2011 10:20 AM

Why not just use the 1-1/2" side of the skilsaw table as a guide and bury the saw into the side of the studs, then complete the cuts with the saw set at 1-1/2" across the face of the studs? No chiseling etc.

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Gary in WA 12-31-2011 01:37 PM

I rather see the 2x cut to fit between the studs, not reducing them from 3-1/2" to 2" cutting out 43%. Might make for a weaker stud wall, especially with added weight pulling from the side where you notched, and tile wall above and below- that doesn't take flexing well..... Be sure to make it a snug fit, glue and screw/fasten with proper length, if you go that route.


chrisBC 12-31-2011 03:37 PM

Yeah, I would cut and nail in as blocking. I've done this with 2x10 and 2x12 as support for heavy awnings and canopies, should be plenty strong.

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