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Old 09-29-2008, 11:42 AM   #1
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laminate counters


I was thinking of buying some laminate counters at Home Depot. anybody got anything good or bad to say about the quality?

tnx,
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Old 09-29-2008, 12:01 PM   #2
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i installed one in our old house after water damage, there was a tiny 'ding' on the top edge of it so i asked for a discount from manager.... paid $20 is all.
i hid the imperfection and so far, so good if that helps. (selling L.C. so i still see it.)

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Old 09-29-2008, 12:24 PM   #3
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in truth "quality' doesnt work in the same sentence. They are cheap, adequate at best. However that is what they are designed to be. Be VERY careful installing them you only have a single 5/8 layer particleboard to screw into and NOT pop thru!!!!!!
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Old 09-30-2008, 12:01 PM   #4
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We've used them in secondary locations -- attic, playroom, etc. and they have been find. You do have to check them carefully for scratches, etc. In the end, you get what you pay for, but if it's a quick fix or a secondary room, why not?
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Old 10-02-2008, 01:48 PM   #5
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laminate counters


one thing I noticed while putting on the end caps last night (that "ironing" thing doesn't work too well btw use contact cement) is that the laminate used in these counters is THIN, probably half the thickness (or less) of regular laminate. probably doesn't bode too well for somebody using the counter for a cutting board! (yes,some LAZY people will do that)

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Old 10-02-2008, 02:20 PM   #6
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laminate counters


A good sheet of Formica can cost waaaay over $50. Those counters are pretty cheap, and are made with cheap materials of course. If they work for you and fit your needs that's all that matters. You could certainly get better quality by making them yourself or having a cabinet shop make them, but the cost is higher either way.
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Old 10-02-2008, 02:45 PM   #7
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laminate counters


amen, KC, and btw three cheers to the Chiefs for blowing away the Broncos.

tnx, a 49er fan
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Old 10-02-2008, 04:12 PM   #8
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Analog; The grade of Formica is called "forming" grade slightlly LESS than "V" grade or vertical grade. V grade is .032 nominal, horizontal or REAL formica for tops is .062 nominal.
By the way Nice "Rock" u got there in the Springs ( Castle ) LOL
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Old 10-02-2008, 11:14 PM   #9
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All products have a place. Depending on budget and needs, laminate can work. There are no grout lines which is still a plus, and the variety of textures and colors makes it a great option for rental properties, affordable housing and starter homes.

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Old 10-03-2008, 11:54 PM   #10
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I think the notion of "quality" encompasses how long something is expected to last. With prefab laminate counter tops, you can make them last much longer by doing some painting.

Since the particle board will swell up if it gets wet, paint the edges of all holes cut in the top and the underside of the top around those holes with a high gloss oil based paint. The paint will prevent any water from being absorbed by the particle board. That way, if water does leak from the faucet or the lip of the sink, you're likely to find out about it before it damages the top. Also, paint the back side of the front bullnose as well. Any water dripping off the front edge of the top could be absorbed into the exposed particle board there as well. And, better still would be to paint those surfaces with boiled linseed oil which will penetrate deeper into the wood than an alkyd or alkyd based polyurethane paint will.

Also, people often secure the top down by driving short screws up into the underside of the top to hold it down to the cabinet. A much better way of securing the top is to use flanged insert nuts:

http://www.leevalley.com/hardware/pa...=3,41306,45375

Installing these couldn't be easier. Just drill an 11/32 inch hole vertically through a piece of 2X2, 2X3 or 2X4 (depending on your drill bit's length) lumber. Insert the 11/32 inch bit all the way into your drill's chuck and then stack up 3/8 inch flat washers on the drill bit before putting the bit through the hole in the lumber so that the drill bit protrudes out from the bottom of the 2X? the right amount. With the top in place, drill 1/4 inch holes through the cabinet to just mark the underside of the counter top, and then use the jig described above to drill holes for the flanged insert nuts at the marked locations. That way you get the right depth of hole in the right location every time. Remove top, drive the flanged insert nuts into it's bottom where the holes are, put top back on and fasten down with 1/4 by 20 tpi machine screws. A little oil on the threads of the machine screws ensures they go in without binding on the insert nut. (Even if the screw binds on the insert nut, the flange will prevent the nut from going any deeper into the particle board.

Last edited by Nestor_Kelebay; 10-04-2008 at 12:02 AM.
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Old 10-04-2008, 12:16 AM   #11
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thats a good idea Nestor, but, unfortunately these cabinets bought from good ole HD have nothing at all to use for attaching the counter. I'm using silicone as a means of adhering the counter to the base per advice I got here.

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