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Old 05-24-2013, 10:59 PM   #16
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Jim's Master Bathroom Remodeling (april 2013)


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Originally Posted by oh'mike View Post
I would suggest 6 to 8 feet ----

Notching should be avoided,but would work if you are not in an area of rot----

I like the box method over sistering in this case----Mike----
It's pretty close to the damaged area. You can see on the second picture, there is a black pipe below the melding metal plates.

I am not be able to go as far back as 8ft. The bathtub is 3 ft away from this area and the trusses run under them.

Really appreciate your help Mike.

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Old 05-25-2013, 05:48 AM   #17
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Jim's Master Bathroom Remodeling (april 2013)


I see the pipe now----notch the board around that----you are into good truss by that pointonly go a foot or so past the pipe---
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Old 05-30-2013, 02:19 PM   #18
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Jim's Master Bathroom Remodeling (april 2013)


to replace the sole plate at the bottom of the exterior wall, how can I support the roof/ceiling while I remove the 2x4?

I'd like to remove it, clean up the area, apply wood hardener to the joist right below it, then put a new 2x4 back.
Should I replace the entire bottom plate or just cut out the rotten section?

Thanks
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Old 05-31-2013, 12:47 PM   #19
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Jim's Master Bathroom Remodeling (april 2013)


This is the repair I have in mind for the trusses. I tried to incorporate several methods and I think it won't hurt to over re-enforce the trusses. My assumption is I am not cutting any truss and will only re-enforce them. Even though one of them has rot up to 1 inch in the center of the hole out of a 2" thick 2x4. I am also avoiding to nail into the bad wood because it might further weaken it.

1) remove the bad wood (not cutting the truss), sand the area a bit, and apply wood hardener to prevent the spores to spread (/// in the picture)
2) put a U-shaped metal stud over the bad wood (green line in the picture) that overlap 1ft w/ the good wood.
3) use 2x4 and make a "block" to support the truss from under (green color in the picture)
4) put 3/4" plywood on each side using liquid nails and screws. Only apply to where the plywood makes contact w/ good wood and avoid the manufactured metal plates (red dots in the picture)
5) may be put one more piece of plywood on each side for a total of 4.

Any feedback would be very appreciated.
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Old 06-06-2013, 05:58 PM   #20
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Jim's Master Bathroom Remodeling (april 2013)


One burning question is, if I don't nail into the bad wood area (//// dashed in the picture) would I still accomplish the desired strength?
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Old 06-06-2013, 06:05 PM   #21
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Jim's Master Bathroom Remodeling (april 2013)


You have a good plan there----the 2x4 blocking to reinforce the weakened sections will give you a safe nailing surface==

Single or double 3/4" ply is the real secret to stiffening up the weakened trusses.

The thin steel U-channel will not do anything--to weak---you will be just fine skipping that.

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