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Old 11-05-2007, 09:20 PM   #16
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Installing wall cabinets


I am no expert, but what I did in a similar project is cut the copper just below the valves. I soldered a cap on the stubs so the rest of the house had water while I installed the cabinets. After the cabinets are installed, solder new valves on the stubs.
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Old 11-05-2007, 09:44 PM   #17
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I would be more concerned about that 12-2 romex hanging out from the bottom of the drywall 2 feet to the left.
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Old 11-06-2007, 05:18 AM   #18
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Installing wall cabinets


Thats kinda of what I was thinking about cutting the valves off but I was worried about soldering right next to the wood of the new cabinet.

The romex was there to hook up the dishwasher. It goes from the dishwasher into a little junction box in the wall.
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Old 11-06-2007, 07:36 AM   #19
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You shouldn't have any problems solding the valves back on If your worried about the new cabinets use a piece of scrap wood between the where you are going to solder and the cabinets.
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Old 11-06-2007, 11:26 AM   #20
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I would be more concerned about that 12-2 romex hanging out from the bottom of the drywall 2 feet to the left.
My electrical friend said that wasnt the correct way either. Luckily the junction box is directly behind the dishwasher location so i'll just put in a single 20A outlet. That should solve that dilema.
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Old 11-06-2007, 05:33 PM   #21
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Installing wall cabinets


It's for the stove plug, let the electrician handle it. Have the plumber cut the pipes near the floor and attch a long piece of braided flex. The cabinet intaller can snake it and it will look better (if that matters). If your the cabinet guy, take the back off the cabinet and install cleats. Drill the drain hole and hang it there. cut the notches (sorry, your bad) and slide the cabinet in place. pull the back into position and nail the cleats to the sides.
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Old 11-06-2007, 06:41 PM   #22
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How's your plumbing capabilities?

Turn off the water supply to the room,take off the shut offs (cut below the pipe tee but leave enough to come up through the bottom of the cabinet),and drill a5/8" holes to line up with your copper pipes.Do the same for the the drain.Just a little bigger than the od of the pvc.
Those shut offs look like they need replacement anyways.
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Old 11-06-2007, 06:47 PM   #23
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How's your plumbing capabilities?

Turn off the water supply to the room,take off the shut offs (cut below the pipe tee but leave enough to come up through the bottom of the cabinet),and drill a5/8" holes to line up with your copper pipes.Do the same for the the drain.Just a little bigger than the od of the pvc.
Those shut offs look like they need replacement anyways.
I think this is the route i'll take. I've soldered some copper pipe before with success, I wont say im Bob Vila but I can manage. And yes I really had to crank on those shut off valves to get the water to stop dripping. I'd say they're original from 1973 so they've done there time.
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Old 11-06-2007, 10:32 PM   #24
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If you prefer not soldering, you can always use compression fitting 1/2"-to-3/8" shut-off valves on copper pipe.
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Old 11-12-2007, 05:37 PM   #25
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I've got a question on shimming up base cabinets. If i'm shimming base cabinets up with shingles under the 1/2" plywood end panels, when I go and trim the shingles off flush with the cabinet what exactly keeps the shingle from just pushing under the cabinet? I understand you cant really kick them or anything one you've got end trim on but only being under there by a 1/2" just seems sketchy. Am I over thinking this? Thanks
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Old 11-12-2007, 05:44 PM   #26
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I usually apply some glue for a little piece of mind
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Old 11-12-2007, 07:06 PM   #27
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If you want to avoid the gapping holes in the back/base of the cabinet, you will need to shut off the water supply, drain enough water out of the copper lines(shop vac may help) by opening the basement laundry faucet.
Then get out the propane and heat up both elbows below the floor. Hopefully your basement ceiling is open for this step. Then set cabinet by drilling out for the waste line. Next put an extension on your 3/4" spade bitand drill up through the floor holes or at least mark the base of the cabinet through the floor holes with the 1/2" pipe ie. tape a black marker to the inside of a pipe.
Now you can head back up stairs and drill out the base.
Next, get a new valve that can handle both water and refridgerator(split valve) on the same line. Might as well replace the hot water valve too.
Resolder, by stuffing a plug of white bread into the elbow down in the basement before attempting to resolder the joint. It will wash out when you flush the line before you hook up the sink.

Last edited by RemodelMan; 11-12-2007 at 07:07 PM. Reason: wrong post
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