GearHd6

Hey everyone,
Im getting ready to install some new kitchen cabinets in a couple weeks. My question is, do I just hit all the wall studs that I can with the cabinets and screw cabinet to cabinet? I have a couple wall cabinets that look like they're going to only hit one stud. Whats the proper procedure for this? The walls are 2x4 studs with sheetrock. Thanks

MinConst

If you hit one stud with 2 screws on each cab you will be fine. I use toggle bolts on the other 2 if the cabs are small. If you can't hit a stud on one use toggle bolts. You should find studs unless the cabs are under 16" in width.

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ajan246

Yup just try to get a couple into the stud and you'll be fine. Studs are every 16 inches from center to center, so measure it out and hit your studs!

space_coyote

I'd advise you to use a purpose-designed cabinet hanging screw.

They're designed to take the shear load of a cabinet, as opposed to an off-the-shelf decking screw that's designed to resist a pull-type load.

send_it_all

Excellent tip

TNRocks

I install cabinets and I use a hanger. I usually make my own. Take a 1 x 3 and rip it in half using a 45d angle on your blade. Then mount half on your wall and the other half on your cabinet. The 45d angle will lock the cabinet to the wall and then u can install a couple of screws into the cabinet into the hange. Also Rockler sells the hanger brackets made out of metal. If you are tight on space they also have Z clips. They only need 3/16 of space. No matter which one u use just make sure they are level.

RippySkippy

If one uses stock pre-made cabinets, doesn't this method bump the cabinet out by the thickness of the cleat?

As for the screws I use the GRK cabinet screws. If the cabinets have face frames, their trim screws work really well in combination with the pony face frame clamps work well...just don't over tighten.

TNRocks

Some do and some don't. Depends on the Manf. If the rear of your cabinet is flush, you can screw the cleat to the inside of your cabinet and then rip a slot for it to catch the one on the wall.

GearHd6

Those are all great tips you guys, thanks. I've got a couple more questions. My kitchen is a fairly decent size "L" with one wall 9' and the other wall 16' with a sink in the middle of the 16' wall. My question is, do I assemble a bunch of wall cabinets to the corner cabinet and try to hoist a million pounds of cabinets up on the wall that are only held together by a few screws in the face frames? Or do I install each one indivually? My other question is, I have 36" high wall cabinets that will be 6" from the ceiling, I also have a 3" crown moulding. How do I get in there with only 3" to work to install the crown from the top? Thanks everyone!

GearHd6

What exactly does Rockler call the brackets you're talking about? I went on there website and they've got a few "hanging brackets". I see the Z clips on there, they actually may work pretty good. With the "Z" clips you're only relying on small screws that hold the Z to the screw strip on the back of the cabinet?

Renaissance-Millwork

I also have a 3" crown moulding. How do I get in there with only 3" to work to install the crown from the top? Thanks everyone![/quote]
Block and mount a 1x6 to the top of the cabinets.You can Leave an offset for extra moulding or kill zone. You can also put flat or shaped stock on the cieling for emphasis or room to build up multiple pieces of crown (dental) etc. Use glue and 1 1/2 nails for less finishing work. I mean in the 1x6 nail close to the bottom as little as needed and try to hide the top nails under the crown mould, dito cieling & other mouldings. Be the finishers best friend.

TNRocks

You start with the corner cabinet first. First thing to do if you can is rip a 2x4 giving u a straight edge. Then screw the 2 x 4 to the wall at the height of the bottom of the cabinets. This will be used as a rest for installing all your uppers. This way all the uppers are at the same height. After you install the corner you can work out one side at a time making sure after you put the cabinet up you clamp it the the previous cabinet and drill attaching holes either thru the face or if the sides are 3/4 or 1/2 in. you can screw thru the sides then fasten thru the rear. If you looked at Rocklers you should have also seen the Steel cleats (#66605). As for the "Z" clips you use 2 screws to mount to the wall and 2 to mount to the cabinet. Make sure they are mounted level there can be no "Thats good enough". These distrubuted the load out better then just using screws thru the back. If you decide to use screws thru the back also drill and screw under neath to the wall this giving you additional holding power plus the sides are screwed together you shouldn't have any problems. Did you check to see if the builder installed fastening blocks before the sheet rock was put up? Usually all the builders I know have this installed as part of the building package.

GearHd6

Theres no fastening blocks behind the sheetrock because I had a small peice of sheetrock out for some wiring so I was able to see. The house was built in the early 70's and I guess this builder didnt do that. I can hit at least one stud on all cabinets except one 12" cabinet doesnt hit a stud.

TNRocks

Here's another thing u might what to do. You can mark the wall and cut out the sheet rock behind the upper cabinets and install blocking yourself. The cabinets will hid the cut out section and u will have a good mounting surface for your cabinets. Together with screwing them together will be good enough. You don't have to install blocking behind the whole setup just enought to hold up the cabinets.

GearHd6

Heres another for you guys, this is in regards to installing the sink base. How exactly would you go about installing the sink base around this maze of pipes without having to cut the heck out of the bottom or back of the sink base?