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markronz 02-19-2010 09:11 AM

Installing a suspended in a room that has an angled wall...
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Hello everyone. I'm new to the forum but it seems like theres a lot of good information on here. I am currently in the middle of remodeling my basement. So far we've got the walls up, drywalled and plastered.

I'm going to be installing a suspended ceiling soon. For the most part I think I understand how to do so. I do have one immediate question though. I've attached a picture of my basement layout. We will be installing the ceiling only on the Office part, and on the Rec Room part. The office part should be straight forward. Regular boxy walls. But the Rec Room isn't that easy. As you can see, there are a few angled walls in there. One tiny one to put a door in front of the sump pump, and then another larger angled wall on the other side of the room when you come down the stairs.

If I had to do things all over again, I would have found a way to make this a square wall. At the time I didn't know any better as I hadn't ever done anything like this before. I guess I wanted to make the entry into the rec room more open while leaving room at the end for a bathroom (the middle door on the picture).

Anyway, whats done is done. The walls are up, drywalled and plastered now, so it's too late to change anything with the layout.

My question is about installing the dropped ceiling on those angled walls. I haven't looked too closely at the pieces yet, but as I understand all the wall pieces, main pieces, and everything else just sort of snap together. Are these angles going to cause any problems for me in regards to putting the ceiling together? I mean, I know I'm going to have to cut a bunch of weird ceiling panels to account for the angle, but I'm not concerned about that. I'm more concerned about things being messed up because the wall is angled, and all the tracks might not snap together correctly.

Anyone have any thoughts?

Let me know if you need any more information...

nap 02-19-2010 09:27 AM

the grid does not snap into the wall mould anyway. Obviously you put up the wall mould first. Then you lay out the ceiling grid. Unless the room is in exact 2' increments, you will end up with a partial tile width (of length). What is typical is to make the ends or side tiles be equal with the other end or side.

what I mean by that is; if the room is (for an arbitrary number) 13' wide. Since that would be 6 1/2 tiles, rather than putting the 1 foot all on one side, generallly the 1' would be split into 2 parts of 6" each and that put at each wall.

Rather than get too deep into that, do you have an accurate measurement of the major dimensions of the room. Prints are great but very often the measurements do not end up exactly as the print states. Actually measure the room. I, or somebody else can help you lay out the ceiling.

anyway; angled walls; not a big deal. You simple run the T's to the wall and yes, you end up with some angle cut pieces. Like I said, the T's do not snap to the wall mould anyway.

markronz 02-19-2010 09:38 AM

Awesome, thanks for the information. I will measure the room out in the next day or two and post it back on here. I believe you are right, we did end up moving the walls a bit.

I would welcome the help coming up with the layout for the tiles, and potentially the lights and heating vent too.

So I'm post again with all the information. For now, I'm at least comforted in knowing that angles walls should not be a problem though.

firehawkmph 02-19-2010 10:06 AM

Welcome to the forum. When you get a chance, update your profile and add the Green Bay location so people have a general idea where you are.
For the ceiling layout, get a sheet of graph paper and transfer your measurements over to it. The squares will reprasent a 2' x 2' tile, if that's what you are going with, and make it easier to see where everything is going to end up. Main runners are on 4' increments, 4' cross tees go in between mains. 2' cross tees go everywhere else. Where your angled walls are, you will just be cutting matching angles on the ends of the mains and tees.
Mike Hawkins:)

markronz 02-19-2010 10:32 AM

Hey, thanks for the info! I will be going with the 2x2 squares as that looks more symetrical to me, which I like. Also, I have updated my profile with my information.

I do have one more question right now though. I am going to paint my new walls in the basement. I'm just sort of wondering if I should paint first before installing the ceiling? Or if I should install the ceiling and then paint after.

At first, I was thinking it would be easier to paint now, because then I wouldn't have to tape off the ceiling. But I've been thinking that in installing the ceiling, we might have to use a chalk line to install the pieces on the outside walls. I'd hate to chalk up my newly painted walls.

So what do you think? Is it common to use a chalk line for lining this up? Or do people do this other ways?

nap 02-19-2010 10:36 AM

it is easier to paint before you put up the wall mould and that way, you also have paint on all the rock. If you paint after, there will be raw sheetrock behind the moulding and you would have to cut in the paint all the way around the room.

definitely paint before wall mould.

a laser is my preferred method. If you you put the chalk line to the top of the wall mould, you would have no problems with even having to remove the chalk line.

markronz 02-19-2010 10:54 AM

Yeah thats a good point. I will be sure to paint before then. Not sure how much lasers cost yet, but I'll have to look into that. If its too much, I will just have to chalk the upper placement of the moulding, like you said.

firehawkmph 02-19-2010 01:08 PM

You can get an inexpensive laser at sears for about 89.00 with a tripod. It will work fine for what you are doing. If your house is reasonably new and the foundation pretty level, you can measure off the bottom of the subfloor to establish your line. Definitely paint first. Just make the line to reprasent the top of your wallmold like stated. If you get any chalk on the walls you can wipe it off. I usually go around and mark the stud locations above the line so it is easier when putting the wall mold up.
Mike Hawkins:)

markronz 02-19-2010 01:18 PM

I'll probably just have to go the route where I measure up from the subfloor. It's a 4 year old house, and its generally a pretty level floor. Buying a laser is probably a bit too costly since I'd only use it one time.

nap 02-19-2010 01:54 PM

never measure up from the floor other than to establish just one point. I have rarely seen a floor level enough to use it to set a ceiling as you progress around the room.

A water level is cheap and easy to use and you can make it a mile long if you want to. It is actually more accurate that all but the highest quality (read: expensive) laser levels and even is on par with them.

You want to find a point to set the height and then use the water level to transfer that point around the room.

bjbatlanta 02-20-2010 09:03 AM

Nap brought up a good point about making your borders equal. I would go one step further by making them as wide as possible. In other words, instead of 6" borders you could divide another 2' tile width to the border and end up with 18" border on either side. Measuring down from the floor joists is a better idea than measuring up from the floor for your height, but as stated, a water level is relatively inexpensive. The main thing with a suspended ceiling is to keep it square or you'll have trouble installing your tiles and especially any lay-in lights if you're using them....

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