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DirtDog 03-16-2011 01:16 AM

Installing nail fin windows - house wrap and t 111 siding
 
Hi All. Long time lurker and first time poster.


I have house wrap under my t 111 it was impossible to cut the siding without cutting house wrap. I've read that house wrap joints must be taped. I found that it was impossible to tape joint between the existing house wrap and new window flashing. I did the next best thing which is to use 6'' wide paper flashing and tuck it under the existing flashing. I also taped the nail flanges with flashing tape. Does anyone know a better way to join the cut existing house wrap with new flashing or better way to cut the t 111 without damaging the house wrap?

Thanks!

Gary in WA 03-16-2011 06:09 PM

Welcome to the forum!

Other than removing the full sheet or two of T1-11? LOL

I would use my skill saw, 1-1/2" from shoe to blade, cut around the old window. Remove pieces, mark new window and new trim (2-1/4" wide). Install short, 1/4" thick shim under siding to hold it up above the H.W. for blade clearance (after pulling window) when making second- accurate cut with 1/8" gap for caulking each side. Top needs 1/4" gap from T1-11 to head flashing for drip room. Use flashing with end dams to keep water from window jambs, pp.8; http://www.mtcc1170.com/images/BCRainScreen.pdf

That way you would gain 3/4"+ room to install sticky at jambs. Use a backer rod for two-sided caulk contact on sides and bottom of window pp. 30: http://books.google.com/books?id=fDs...age&q=&f=false

Gary

DirtDog 03-16-2011 09:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GBR in WA (Post 610898)
Welcome to the forum!

Other than removing the full sheet or two of T1-11? LOL

I would use my skill saw, 1-1/2" from shoe to blade, cut around the old window. Remove pieces, mark new window and new trim (2-1/4" wide). Install short, 1/4" thick shim under siding to hold it up above the H.W. for blade clearance (after pulling window) when making second- accurate cut with 1/8" gap for caulking each side. Top needs 1/4" gap from T1-11 to head flashing for drip room. Use flashing with end dams to keep water from window jambs, pp.8; http://www.mtcc1170.com/images/BCRainScreen.pdf

That way you would gain 3/4"+ room to install sticky at jambs. Use a backer rod for two-sided caulk contact on sides and bottom of window pp. 30: http://books.google.com/books?id=fDs...age&q=&f=false

Gary


Hi Gary. Thanks for your response. I guess using a shim is the key to cutting siding without damaging the house wrap. Pg 33 of the book you referenced is not available for viewing. Can you clarify the method for using a backer rod? A backer rod is basically a round cylinder/ cord of foam?

Thanks again.

Jim

Gary in WA 03-16-2011 11:59 PM

Thanks for the feedback. I think Google Books is on to me..... changing the preview pages every few months.... The backer rod goes between surfaces to prevent the fresh caulking from adhering to the backside surface, creating a 3 way direction struggle for it to stretch. It won't adhere to b.b., as its poly. Yes, cord of closed cell poly foam found in box store at "weather-stripping" supplies. Other pictures; http://www.coastalcontractor.net/article/117.html

You want an "hourglass" shape for optimum stretch; http://docs.google.com/viewer?a=v&q=...X1IjstvXQPNoxA

Gary


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