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aamcleve 03-26-2013 01:59 PM

Install a Sliding Glass Door with Limited Header space
 
Hello everyone and thanks in advance for your advice.

I have a contractor friend who is going to assist me with installing this sliding glass door in the back of my house. However, we have encountered an issue that he hasn't seen before and I was wondering if someone on here has. The main issue is that my ceilings are only 7'6" ceilings so after measuring everything out we only have enough room for a 7" header to support the weight of the roof. He says that normally you would want a 12" header for such a task.

My question here is do you know if we should use metal or wood or what as the support header for this installation. For those wanting the actual measurements, we have a 7" header that will span 6' and it will support a 30' long roof truss.

What can I safely use as a 7" header keep in mind I live in the Indianapolis area, so the roof will at times be bearing snow loads.

Thanks for your help.

GBrackins 03-26-2013 02:47 PM

find out from you local building department what the ground snow load is for your area. what is the pitch of your roof? 5/12, 6/12, 12/12? is the 7" the space from the bottom of the top plate to the top of the door frame?

aamcleve 03-26-2013 02:52 PM

roof pitch is 4/12, ground snow load for this area is 20PSF, and yes the measurement is from the bottom of the top plate to the door frame.

Thanks for the speedy response.

GBrackins 03-26-2013 02:58 PM

2x4 or 2x6 exterior wall?

aamcleve 03-26-2013 03:03 PM

It is a 2x4

GBrackins 03-26-2013 03:04 PM

ouch!

aamcleve 03-26-2013 03:08 PM

Have you used those LVL boards? I was wondering what your thoughts were on a solution like that. I found a LVL board that is 7 1/4" at Menards, I wonder what would happen if I stuck two of them together.

GBrackins 03-26-2013 03:29 PM

based upon a 6' span with a 15' tributary load (1/2 of 30' truss span) with 30 pounds per square foot total load (20 pounds per square foot live load + 10 pounds per square foot dead load) I come up with the following options:

two-ply 1-3/4"x5-1/2" LVL. would have about an 1/8" of deflection. not sure if you local lumber yard stocks those or not.

a 3 ply 2x6 doug-fir #2 would work as well, of course the inner ply would be sticking to the inside of the wall. join together with construction adhesive and 16d common nails at 12" center to center.

a 2 ply 2x8 doug-fir #2 (ripped to 7") will work. install 1/2" plywood in between the members so that the width of the header is 3-1/2". would give you around a 1/16" deflection. now if you have a permit and will be having inspections the building official may require engineering for the ripped 2x8's since they are not nominal depth.

here is a link to the prescriptive code requirements based upon the 2009 International Residential Code for headers in an exterior wall. http://publicecodes.cyberregs.com/ic...?bu2=undefined

good luck!

GBrackins 03-26-2013 03:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by aamcleve (Post 1146316)
Have you used those LVL boards? I was wondering what your thoughts were on a solution like that. I found a LVL board that is 7 1/4" at Menards, I wonder what would happen if I stuck two of them together.

if a 2 ply 1-3/4x5-1/2 will work a 2 ply 1-3/4x7-1/4 will work. just not suppose to rip LVL without approval of an engineer or manufacturer

joecaption 03-26-2013 03:34 PM

Think it would help to use a 1/2 steel plate instead of the 1/2 plywood?

GBrackins 03-26-2013 03:41 PM

it would, but I'm not a big fan of flitch beams, flitches take time to put together. if I need to bring steel into the mix I'd just as soon use either a W or S shaped steel beam. And with all of the engineered wood options out there you can usually find something off the shelf that works.

aamcleve 03-26-2013 03:45 PM

Thank you very much GBrackins. I assume experience allows you to spurt out this information, I only hope to someday have a quarter of that type of building knowledge in my head.

GBrackins 03-26-2013 03:55 PM

you're welcomed. I'd go with the LVL if I was doing this project.

Windows on Wash 03-26-2013 04:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GBrackins (Post 1146357)
you're welcomed. I'd go with the LVL if I was doing this project.

+1

They aren't that expensive either as their popularity has expanded.

framer52 03-26-2013 04:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GBrackins (Post 1146357)
you're welcomed. I'd go with the LVL if I was doing this project.


he also could cut out the top plates to give him more room with the trusses bearing on the header.


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