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Old 10-29-2007, 12:16 PM   #1
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I need answers to easy questions. (Installing Hardibacker.)


I know that there are no stupid questions, but there are easier questions than others. I have some easy ones for you experts out there.

To begin with, however, I have to tell you about our first experience installing Hardibacker board. It was a "nightmare" until we decided to use a Skill (circular) saw and carbide tipped blade to cut it. A suggestion that I had seen before, but until I spoke to an old gentleman who was a weekend warrior like us, I was afraid to try it. Believe me, when it comes to scoring and breaking it, you had better have the tools recommended by the Hardibacker company. We tried using a utility knife with little success. We even bought special, more durable blades. When we began using the saw, it cut very easily. I didn't reverse the blade as I had seen suggested. It was an old 14 year old blade (Marathon), so it wasn't a big loss. I am certain that it will still cut wood easily, however. The main thing was, it worked.

To make cut-outs (circles), I used a compass to score the board (after measuring carefully) and a ceramic drill bit to make pilot holes. Then, I used a saber saw to make the cuts. I used standard blades. They were unusable when I got the job finished. Carbide blades would be good here, also. You definitely will want to wear goggles and a dust mask while doing either.

Nailing is also a new experience. I have nailed and screwed dozens of sheets of gypsum board on walls and ceilings, but this was not the same. I had seen suggestions about drilling pilot holes before attempting to nail through the boards. I foolishly didn't use this method until I got completely frustrated. Then, I didn't drill, but used a very fine nail punch (set). This made the hard to get to nails a cinch.

I hope this will help any of you newbies to installing Hardibacker board. We wouldn't hesitate to do it again, now that we know how to do it.

Now, for my easy questions:

1. Do you tape the inside corners on Hardibacker, as you do the joints?

2. What is the difference in "yellow" and "white" self-adhesive joint tape? My conclusion is, the yellow simply allows you to see how well it is covered. The label is exactly the same.

3. Do I use a special drywall mud for taping over the self-adhesive tape? I saw somewhere that a special fast drying mud should be used.

4. Do I use drywall mud or thin-set to tape the joints where green gypsum board meets Hardibacker?

I certainly will appreciate any responses that I receive.


Last edited by Handyman50; 10-29-2007 at 12:28 PM.
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Old 10-29-2007, 01:30 PM   #2
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I need answers to easy questions. (Installing Hardibacker.)


Quote:
Originally Posted by Handyman50 View Post

Now, for my easy questions:

1. Do you tape the inside corners on Hardibacker, as you do the joints?
I Do.
2. What is the difference in "yellow" and "white" self-adhesive joint tape? My conclusion is, the yellow simply allows you to see how well it is covered. The label is exactly the same.
You are probably using the wrong tape. The big box stores sell special tape just for hardi backer and dur-rock. It is alkalai resistant. If you havea choice between white and yellow, you are probably shopping for the tape in the drywall area. Go to where they have the Hardi backer.
3. Do I use a special drywall mud for taping over the self-adhesive tape? I saw somewhere that a special fast drying mud should be used.
You should use thinset, not drywall mud.
4. Do I use drywall mud or thin-set to tape the joints where green gypsum board meets Hardibacker?
I use thinset, then allow my border tiles to overlap onto the drywall far enough to cover the seam where drywall meets Hardi. This is all mapped out in the layout stage when I do it.

I certainly will appreciate any responses that I receive.
No problem.

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Old 10-29-2007, 04:01 PM   #3
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I need answers to easy questions. (Installing Hardibacker.)


Handyman50 I have found many answers to my hardi or tile questions at www.johnbridge.com .
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Old 10-29-2007, 06:00 PM   #4
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I need answers to easy questions. (Installing Hardibacker.)


Thanks, Guys. I'll do some further research.
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Old 10-29-2007, 06:35 PM   #5
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I need answers to easy questions. (Installing Hardibacker.)


Tape all your hardieboard joints with thin set first, then set the tape immediately over it. The good news is that the joints don't have to be glass smooth or sanded either. Be sure to use the wide-head cement board screws for the best results.
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Old 10-30-2007, 10:12 PM   #6
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I need answers to easy questions. (Installing Hardibacker.)


Thanks for all of the replies.

I spoke to a man that works at the lumber yard today. He was a painter and tile installer for years. He used many square feet of Hardibacker and gave me pointers. The one thing that I learned is, when it says drive the nails flush, it means so the heads are level with the surface. You have to pity pat them a bit when they are flush. You do not dent the surface as you do with sheetrock, however. There can be no speed-bumps as he called them. The surface must be flat.

Another man who was installing rock over Hardibacker told me that using screws is the easiest and best way to secure the sheets. The screws are easier to get flush with the surface. Of course, the Hardibacker site said to us nails first. So, that is what I did.

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