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Old 03-08-2007, 04:31 PM   #1
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How tough is it to..........


..tear out a fiberglass shower unit? I am thinking about tearing ours out and tiling the walls and floor.

Is this a DIY project?

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Old 03-08-2007, 05:40 PM   #2
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..tear out a fiberglass shower unit? I am thinking about tearing ours out and tiling the walls and floor.

Is this a DIY project?

Yes...

Remove the sheetrock around the unit first, so that you can access the flange that is nailed to the studs. The flange of the unit should only be about 1" wide on the top and sides. Use a level to draw out some straight lines to score the sheetrock with a utility knife. Then, use a reciprocating saw to make shallow cuts along those scores. If tiling the area - you should remove the sheetrock up to the ceiling. If you do this carefully, you will not have to do any ceiling work.

Obviously: Shut-off and disconnect all water lines prior to removing the unit. You may wish to 'cap' the lines if shutting off the water means that a large part of your house will not have water for an extended period of time.

You may cut the unit up with a reciprocating saw to get it out the door (If it's size is an issue -some larger models were installed prior to closing the bath walls in)

Clean up the areas that you made a mess out of (sheetrock). Install any additional studs that you may need in order to have proper nailing surfaces - for new materials (like cement board).


Last edited by AtlanticWBConst.; 03-08-2007 at 05:46 PM.
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Old 03-08-2007, 06:16 PM   #3
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Sound like a project that I can handle. My wife may not like being without a shower in the MB but the project should enhance the looks of the MB.

Thanks Atlantic!
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Old 03-10-2007, 12:58 PM   #4
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If tiling the area - you should remove the sheetrock up to the ceiling. If you do this carefully, you will not have to do any ceiling work.
You recommend tiling all the way to the ceiling?
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Old 03-10-2007, 04:26 PM   #5
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You recommend tiling all the way to the ceiling?
No, I wouldn't bother tiling to the ceiling. Some people do, but it's a waste of money....I would suggest using something like Densamor on the upper level (Between the tile work and the ceiling):

http://www.gp.com/build/product.aspx...9&hierarchy=pc
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Old 03-10-2007, 04:35 PM   #6
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No, I wouldn't bother tiling to the ceiling. Some people do, but it's a waste of money....I would suggest using something like Densamor on the upper level (Between the tile work and the ceiling):

http://www.gp.com/build/product.aspx...9&hierarchy=pc
Is Densamor different than greenboard? And can I get it at Home Depot or Lowes?
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Old 03-10-2007, 04:41 PM   #7
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Is Densamor different than greenboard? And can I get it at Home Depot or Lowes?

H.D. is now carrying 'Densarmor' (and at a pretty darn good price).

Stay away from MR/green board. - This product was only "Water Vapor resistant (wax coated paper)
....Densarmor is Mold and moisture resistant (no paper used -fiberglass coating)
Read information on this.... click on the link below:

http://www.gp.com/build/product.aspx...9&hierarchy=pc
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Old 03-10-2007, 08:16 PM   #8
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H.D. is now carrying 'Densarmor' (and at a pretty darn good price).

Stay away from MR/green board. - This product was only "Water Vapor resistant (wax coated paper)
....Densarmor is Mold and moisture resistant (no paper used -fiberglass coating)
Read information on this.... click on the link below:

http://www.gp.com/build/product.aspx...9&hierarchy=pc
At that link I saw this:

"These paperless drywall panels are also ideal for commercial pre-rock installations."

Does that mean you put drywall over it, or does it take the place of drywall?
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Old 03-10-2007, 08:37 PM   #9
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At that link I saw this:

"These paperless drywall panels are also ideal for commercial pre-rock installations."

Does that mean you put drywall over it, or does it take the place of drywall?
To answer your question; It serves as a sheetrock for the drywall process. It is not marketed as a 'backerboard' for sheetrock


To help you understand what the term 'pre-rock' is used for in that context:

This is a comment directly from the 'Georgia-Pacific' website, word for word:

"Pre-rock areas, where windows, doors or roofs have not been installed making moisture intrusion inevitable."

... My comments (not on their website)....Under certain commercial, industrial & multi residential unit building construction procedures... (there may be circumstances where it may be advantageous or it may be expediant) ...to install sheetrock on certain walls and/or ceilings for mechanical installation requirements (heating, cooling, etc...) Example: A mechanical utility room ... During the framing process and prior to the structure being 'weather-tight' (Properly enclosed to all weather conditions) the may be a need for gypsum walls/ceilings be installed in order to properly attach the mechanical unit(s) themselves OR to run mechanical feed/utility lines thru a wall or room...... ('way before' the 'approval stage' -of drywall work has started)

Thus : The point of this product's "practical use" is specific to possible 'moisture intrusion' conditions.
(Sorry - But there was no other way to make this explanation 'less' techincal without loosing it's comprehension)

Plain English: There are times during some construction where sheetrock needs to be installed onto the rough framing, before things like doors, windows, or the roof are installed. Densarmor is marketed as a sheetrock that will 'hold-up' to such 'open weather' conditions (unlike regular old sheetrock).


Last edited by AtlanticWBConst.; 03-11-2007 at 06:52 AM.
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