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amakarevic 02-13-2012 04:02 PM

how to close small (3") clearance b/ween window and roof?
 
1 Attachment(s)
please see the photo attached. i took the old window out and what it previously had in between it and the roof edge (the gutter is also there) were some rotten pieces of 2x lumber.

i was thinking what to replace it with. the window is situated in my house extension, which was built cca. 1930s with terra cota bricks (big bricks with 6 hollow chambers) and has stucco over it. i can't put bricks or concrete because of gravity. or can i? if i go with PT lumber, should i wrap it with some flashing (aluminum) to weatherize it? i plan to use the 2x10 mortar patching mold you can see in the picture for the window insert but i will pull it more inside to anchor it into the indoor framing so it won't be flush with the wall outside like it is now, maybe 4" in, and i plan to wrap it with aluminum flashing outside. but i still will have the clearance above i need to fill.

in case i go with PT lumber, do you think i can put some lathe on the outside and smear stucco over it to make it look the same as the rest of the wall. i plan to refinish the wall with a product called California Stucco later this year to make it look nice.

i had to adjust the opening to the new window size, hence the frame and new mortar patching on the sides you can see. the gap on either side was between 1-2, maybe 3" max and i filled it with mortar and pieces of brick where they'd fit but first i put a strip of metal lathe for reinforcement. i am saying this not seeking advice but because i know people here like to make digressions off the main questions based on weird things they see in pics, which is great, just clarifying in advance.

rditz 02-14-2012 12:22 PM

ok, so you created the frame that is there now because of a new window, right??

from the picture it appears as though there is no header over the window frame, which you should have. the header should extend past each side of the window frame, being supported by the walls on either side. your header should be a minimum of (2) 2x6's laminated together with a strip of 1/2" ply between them (to make up a typical 2x4 studded wall). the header would fillin the space between the window frame and the roof framing. you could then prep and stucco to match the rest of the exterior wall.

if you are re-framing this window opening, first take a look at the building supply store for their stock windows and the nearest size that would fit your opening. stock windows are readily available and less expensive.

is your new window frame fastened to the house structure at all with nails or screws?? your comments describing it, does not imply that. if it is not, then I suggest you tear out that frame and start new.. build the header and then frame in with your dimensional lumber. then you can shim you window in for level.

Also, your window frame should not have been built out to be flush with your finished exterior wall. it should be flush to your exterior wall framing or studs., then your sheathing and exterior finish is applied, followed by window trim/brick mold or the like.

if you decide to "patch" this window further, that is what it will be and look like, a PATCH job. IMHO.

good luck with whatever you decide to do.

amakarevic 02-14-2012 02:58 PM

the frame is where it is because i was using it to patch the sides with mortar. like i said in OP, i will pull it in so it is not flush with the outside wall (likely 4" inward).

yes, the header is what i am referring to. i just wasn't sure that was the term so i used the more generic term "clearance". so my question is what to make it with considering the small hight (3-4") and the fact that it is brick and mortar all around. my idea was PT lumber but i was here asking whether that is okay.

thanks

rditz 02-14-2012 03:11 PM

how thick is the framed wall?? that is where your header will be.

if you only have 3-4" of room, laminate 2x4's together until you get your wall thickness (use 1/2" ply in between).

joecaption 02-14-2012 03:11 PM

Once again do not use pressure treated and expect to use coil stock over it. The finish will blister off.
Think about using vinyl dental moulding, of just picture frame the whole thing with 1 X 4 vinyl lumber.

amakarevic 02-14-2012 03:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by joecaption (Post 853486)
Once again do not use pressure treated and expect to use coil stock over it. The finish will blister off.
Think about using vinyl dental moulding, of just picture frame the whole thing with 1 X 4 vinyl lumber.

well, the stock coil will not go over PT lumber header. it will go over the frame inside. which is regular lumber. i think the lumber inside will last 20+ years if it is enclosed by aluminum and well sealed with Quad. the PT header would be on top of the frame to close the clearance/gap between it and the roof. see the picture, exactly where the gap is now. that is why i was thinking to put some lathe facing outside and then smear a think layer of mortar to make it look the same as the wall around. the clearance is to small to fill it with masonry, IMO.

Tom Struble 02-14-2012 03:48 PM

this is doomed:no:

amakarevic 02-14-2012 03:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tom Struble (Post 853504)
this is doomed:no:

in the 5 years of doing DIY, i've never done a failed project. if you think this is "doomed" perhaps you may want to offer an alternative. the question is simple: how do you close a 4" header clearance above a window if all around is masonry?

amakarevic 02-14-2012 03:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rditz (Post 853485)
how thick is the framed wall?? that is where your header will be.

the brick wall is about 8" thick. the framing inside is regular 2x4. there is a small gap (cca 1") between the framing and the wall to compensate for the unevenness of the wall because it is old.

amakarevic 02-14-2012 04:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rditz (Post 853485)
if you only have 3-4" of room, laminate 2x4's together until you get your wall thickness (use 1/2" ply in between).

thanks. is laminate 2x4 the same kind of thing as Azek lumber? i did inquire about Azek but they said they don't make 2x, only trim grade.

amakarevic 02-14-2012 04:18 PM

i agree that vinyl would be better for this header than PT lumber. however, the reason i was thinking PT is because:

1. will PT in this application last any less than for a deck? i doubt. it is less exposed to weathering than a deck.

2. this window and its outside trim is easier to replace than a deck. if we don't weatherproof a deck by making it last 1000 years with vinyl, why should we do the same with a window.

3. the window inside is unfinished wood, which is covered outside with aluminum. i will finish it myself outside (paint it) but not the inside part that touches aluminum. my reasoning is: if the window aluminum going over regular SPF lumber is good enough on a window, why is it not good enough to protect just regular SPF window frame with aluminum?

rditz 02-16-2012 09:10 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by amakarevic (Post 853520)
thanks. is laminate 2x4 the same kind of thing as Azek lumber? i did inquire about Azek but they said they don't make 2x, only trim grade.

you've misunderstood my comment. By "laminate" the 2x4's I menat that you need to fasten them together to create a stronger beam that will go above your window frame and create the header.

nail/screw the 2x4's together with a strip of 1/2" ply wood in between them to make up your 3 1/2" stud wall thickness.

the ends of this header should rest on a jack studs on either side.

amakarevic 02-16-2012 01:35 PM

thanks, rditz. my main concern is for the front cover. i went to a lumber yard yesterday (more specialized than big box) and discovered cement board siding. i got a 10' piece, i think that will work well in the front of it for both moisture protection as well as matching the looks of the surrounding area.


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