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67velle 09-07-2012 03:17 PM

help with sealing up garage
6 Attachment(s)
Hello, Im new here and Im looking for some good information on how to seal up my current shop. I live in Florida. I restore cars as a hobby so Im seeking some information on how to seal up the shop.

My shop was built by the previous owner in stages.

The overall size of the shop is about 80 feet long and 20 feet wide. The entire shop has a concrete floor.

The first area is a open pole barn type of construction. It simply has poles in the middle of the concrete with a long board nailed to them with 2 x 4's running out to the edges to create a pitch with a tin roof. The area of size here is about 40 x 20. Im not concerned with this area of the shop.

The next section is a 20 x 10 room that was added for storage. The walls are framed with 2x4's and have plywood outside walls. The roof is constructed the same way as the pole barn type area on the otherside. It has 2 x 4's running from the center pole to create a roof with tin. Im looking to seal up this area and open it up to the next area of the shop by taking out the wall between the room and the shop. It appears the wall that separates this room and the next area is not a weight bearing wall, but does provide support for the center beam as the wall is the end of the center beam. I envisioned installing a temporary post and create a beam that runs across where the wall used to be and beef up the ends. As far as the wall framing, the 2 x4's are on 24" centers as well as the roof joist if that is the correct term. I had envisioned putting in some insulation and drywall here, but not sure the 2x4's could take the weight of 1/2" or 3/8" drywall. I could put up some of that insulation sheathing that could serve as insulation and the wall or roof, but not sure that is a good idea. Would the 2x4's take the weight of drywall in this 20 x 10 room? Opinions on how to take out the wall?

The next area is a garage that Im opening the small room up to. Its area is 20x20 with a 9 x 10 opening for the car to come in and out of. This opening will have a rollup door. The roof is 12 feet tall with 2 x 6's that are on 16" centers. The roof trusses are kind of messed up. They used mobile home trusses and they are on 32" centers with the three in the middle at 8" centers. I dont think the mobile home trusses are strong enough to hold drywall, maybe 3/8", but not sure. Again another idea is to use the insulation sheathing screwed to these trusses. I had also thought about installing some 2x8's to create a new flat joist to attach the drywall to, but not sure how long these joist can be, as they would span 20 feet. Also do the joist have to be on top of the wall or header? Can a joist hanger be nailed to the stud and create a false ceiling to accomdate dry wall?

The side walls are not much of a concern. They can accomdate the drywall.

I plan on insulating the roof as much as possible like R30 and the walls the same.

Again, my main questions are can the 2 x 4's accomdate drywall? What is the best way to take out the wall? What is the best way to seal the gargage roof, via drywall or some type of sheathing?

I have enclosed some pics of the shop.

67velle 09-07-2012 03:26 PM

2 Attachment(s)
Here are some more pics.

67velle 09-07-2012 07:48 PM


67velle 09-09-2012 01:54 AM

Figured I would of heard something by now.............:(

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