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Old 03-25-2012, 06:03 PM   #1
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hanging a new dryer vent


I have a new dryer vent I want to install, this one...

http://www.amazon.com/HEARTLAND-2100...2712255&sr=8-1

in an effort to close off all my potential air leaks. The problem I ran into is that in an effort to be a go getter I ripped off the old one and thought I could just use masonry screws (tapcon from home depot, 1 1/4 inch I believe)

so I pre-drilled with a tapcon bit and put the screw in and the screw now just free spins in the hole I drilled so it's not doing what I intended.

so questions

1) are masonry screws similar to wood screws in that they are meant to pull it tight or do they work differently?

2) what is my best path forward? I'm imagining I'm best putting an anchor in and screwing into it but I thought it best to ask here since my first plan didn't go as expected.

many thanks

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Old 03-25-2012, 06:17 PM   #2
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hanging a new dryer vent


Anchor is your best option.

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Old 03-25-2012, 06:35 PM   #3
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hanging a new dryer vent


To answer your first question,yes.
The concrete screws are supposed to work in the same way as wood/sheetrock screws once you pre-drill the concrete. I've seen comments about breaking the heads off tapcons from being so tight. Doesn't always work out that way though.
To the second question,anchors are your way to go now or you could try a larger tapcon.
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Old 03-25-2012, 07:36 PM   #4
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hanging a new dryer vent


You don't want that one:

Get a type "A" for 50% more air-flow than type "B": http://www.appliance411.com/faq/dryer-vent-length.shtml

Your first choice would trap lint on all the plastic in front of the air-flow before it makes the 180* turn and the sliding shuttle which would stick shortly from the moist lint hitting the colder plastic.

Gary
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Old 03-25-2012, 09:24 PM   #5
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hanging a new dryer vent


Quote:
Originally Posted by GBR in WA View Post
You don't want that one:

Get a type "A" for 50% more air-flow than type "B": http://www.appliance411.com/faq/dryer-vent-length.shtml

Your first choice would trap lint on all the plastic in front of the air-flow before it makes the 180* turn and the sliding shuttle which would stick shortly from the moist lint hitting the colder plastic.

Gary
interesting, I hadn't considered the back pressure and how that might impact efficiency. With the concern of drafts and it as an entry point for cold air do you have an opinion?

I think I like this one...

http://store.dryerbox.com/No-Nest-Dr...hite_p_34.html

This one seems to be the epitome of my concern

http://store.dryerbox.com/Louvered-W...Vent_p_33.html

as I can't imagine it blocks cold air drafts well at all.

thoughts?

EDIT: I also wish they tested the one I bought with the spring option as that should lower the back pressure, but o-well.

Last edited by MLMIB; 03-25-2012 at 09:31 PM.
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Old 03-27-2012, 12:22 AM   #6
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hanging a new dryer vent


Your second link is a type "A" as in the second link I supplied.The other Type "A" doesn't trap as much lint. Your first one has two doors to open, not very good. And it is hinged to open only as far as the pressure pushes it- 2 doors...... Notice the top of the type "A" and "B" in my link, the extra 1" the door is top hinged-out gives a better opening for less resistance.

Gary

P.S.- You are still blowing warm, wet lint into a cup directly in front of the air-flow, flat doors are much better at self-cleaning; after the lint dries- the smooth surface rather than concave, cleans right off with the next use.

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