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Old 12-31-2010, 02:52 PM   #1
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gutted bathroom


Howdy - new here so excuse any gaffs...

So I have a gutted bathroom. It started with water coming in around the vent pipe and soaking the ceiling. It is (of course) spiraling out of control. My wife has given me 2 months. Not bad...

So it's a 1910 bungalow thing, balloon construction, what might be called 1 and 3/4 story. I'm in northern Minnesota. Like I said, it started with water coming in next to the vent pipe and soaking the ceiling. Plaster ceiling so it took a while to soak in, apparently some 5 years at least (how long we've owned it). What happened is at some point in the past, the previous owners transitioned from a 120 deg elbow in the cast iron to some 4 inch pvc. In what appears to be an attempt to make the PVC vertical, they cut it at 60 deg and tried to fit it in the cast iron. Well that didn't work so water came in. I've temporarily fixed that, in anticipation of a proper fix along with new roof this coming summer.

Anyhow - I've gutted it. The floor you see in the picture was a temporary job I threw in for Christmas (wife insisted we had an upstairs toilet over Christmas parties..) There was a little soft-floor action by the toilet in addition to a 3/4" drop across the floor (low point being the toilet of course), and the bathroom was awful in general (pink fixtures, peel-n-stick on top of two layer of linoleum, peel and stick plastic tiles on the walls, etc.

I have ... A LOT ... of questions. But - I will start with this one: it's balloon construction and the walls and roof rafters are 2x4s. The floor itself is about 8 feet by 7 feet. If you look at the picture that angled wall is about a 7/12 pitch or about 33 degrees. It's six feet from the top to bottom edge. The knee (about 4 feet high) wall is also exterior. The boards you see are 1-by planking, not TnG or shiplap. The walls have no insulation, the angled ceiling is filled with blown fiberglass. The exterior of the second floor is stucco on lathe (directly on the wall 2x4s). The roof is the same 1x planking (no evidence of the cedar strip stuff). There are no soffit vents.

I believe I need to remove that wall planking and insulate - but - what best to use? And the ceiling? What the heck do I do? Taking into account the new roof for next year, do forget about it and deal with it from the outside (as in new sheathing and/or somehow ending up with more than 3 1/2 inches of space for insulation, like sistering/scabbing on wider rafters?)

Like I say - I've got lots of questions, but I'll start here. Thanks in advance to anyway who takes the time to reply.

Ryan
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Old 01-01-2011, 06:59 AM   #2
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gutted bathroom


Sloped floors are part of old houses. They may be due to foundation problems or just old age. To fix one in one room will make the rest look strange, especially at doorways. Your call.

Fill the outside stud bays with as much insulation as they will take(don't pack it in), w vapor barrier. Don't disturb the ceiling insulation.

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Old 01-02-2011, 01:41 PM   #3
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Thanks Just Bill. Regarding the sloped ceiling: you suggest simply leaving it be completely? Or addressing in the summer along with a new roof?

Couple other questions some to mind: I'm removing all the electrical and water supplies. I've run three new runs of 12-2 and two runs of 1/2" PEX up from the basement. I ran all this in a chase that includes the 4" cast iron DWV pipe. The chase is about 6-7 inches by about 14 inches. Is it OK to run all of this in the chase? I don't have access to it as it passes through the first floor, so I can't really ensure they are separate, but I can fasten at the top and bottom, about 11 feet separation.

When all is said and done, I plan to use one of the 12-2s for lights/fan/outlets (it will be only this bathroom on the circuit), the second of the 12-2s for in-floor heat (another dedicated circuit), and the third I will run up to the attic for whatever the future may hold (perhaps my upstairs bedroom lights - I have mysterious knob/tube going on upstairs).

Another question: I (well, the plumber, plumbing being the trade I fear most) removed the cast iron radiator from the room. Can I reasonably jump on this now-freed-up circuit to run hydronic in-floor instead of electrical? This particular radiator was on it's own home-run to the basement...

Thanks-
Ryan
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Old 01-02-2011, 02:00 PM   #4
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You have definately bit off a piece of the elephant, but thats what they say, one bite at a time.

Personally, I would take down all the wood sheeting on the inside, add insulation and a proper vapor barrier. Ceiling would be the same, add vat with vapor barrier, then later you can add insulation from the attic side to build your R value.

The hydronic heat sounds like a good idea, with one down fall, you will only have heat on the floor when the boiler is running, where electric floor grid is selectable per use.

What are your plans for the rest, tub? shower enclosure? tile floor? and keep the forum posted, we all love this kind of project.
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Old 01-02-2011, 03:09 PM   #5
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Thanks Jackofall1-

For the walls, I'm going to pull the planking and insulate. As for the ceiling, it's already filled with blown-in fiberglass. Would just putting a proper vapor barrier up suffice?

The electric in-floor seems easier for my diy-skillls.. My furnace is set up for 3 zones. One of the three sets of pipes is capped. Another is for the basment zone (two radiators), which I have turned off as we have a wood stove in the basement. The other feeds the main and second floor. I though about the hydronic as this room for whatever reason has a home-runned pair of pipes. All that said, the electric seems a lot easier...

As for the finished product: I've got a very good condition clawfoot (purchased 2 days after I bought the house *5 years* ago. Been in the garage since... And then a simple white pedestal sink, simple toilet, on-wall vanity. Floor will be subway tile, with vinyl wainscoting to about 40 inches.


Thanks-
Ryan
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Old 01-02-2011, 03:16 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rgoldberg View Post
Thanks Jackofall1-

As for the ceiling, it's already filled with blown-in fiberglass. Would just putting a proper vapor barrier up suffice?

Thanks-
Ryan
Yes absolutely, you didn't mention an exhaust fan, this is real important in a bathroom, plan on adding this feature vented to the outside.
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Old 01-15-2011, 01:51 PM   #7
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How far back to remove the galvanized stuff? All the way to the cast iron stuff? There's definitely some rust-funk in the galvanized, but it doesn't seem structurally compromised and it doesn't seem like it would impede flow. Going all the way back seems like I'm maybe inviting some pain with the connections over there, but maybe I'm just imagining that due to lack of experience with plumbing..

Thanks-
Ryan
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