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Old 07-29-2015, 07:59 PM   #1
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I am having rectified tile installed now with 3/16 grout lines.
pro spec oyster sanded grout was used with pro spec sealer added .. the grout dried all uneven and does not look good.
It was suggested that we put oyster unsanded grout over the the sanded grout. The sanded grout was done 2 days ago. A layer of unsanded grout was just applied in a small area and I am unsure if this is a good idea or not.

Thank you in advance!

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Old 07-29-2015, 08:08 PM   #2
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That small a line should have been unsanded in the first place.
No way would I have gone over what was there, it needed to be removed.
A picture would be nice.

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Old 07-29-2015, 08:59 PM   #3
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Joe, take your reading glasses off your forehead, msrq said the grout width is 3/16", so sanded is correct. However this grout can be used with gaps from 1/16 to ".

What "sealer" was added to the grout? Was it Grout Boost or ProColor Stain Guard Grout Additive? Or something else?

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Old 07-29-2015, 09:26 PM   #4
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pro spec brand sealer and pro spec oyster color sanded grout.... sorry grout size for this tile 1/8.....
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Old 07-29-2015, 10:12 PM   #5
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I was hoping you'd give the exact name of the grout and sealer.

ProSpec - is the name of the company, the grout used is probably called; ProColor sanded grout. Not sure which sealer was used, maybe it's not listed in their website.

Back to your Q. Blotchy grout is usually installer error, but there may be contributing factors. Applying unsanded grout to even out the color is a last ditch effort in the hope some of the new pigments make it blend. It may help, but wouldn't surprise me if the new texture will make the grout look different from the original and could create a new blotchy appearance.

A good cure if often a grout stain, but this unknown sealer has to be identified and researched. You said the sealer was "added" to, as apposed to applied after grouting. Makes a difference.

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Old 07-29-2015, 10:51 PM   #6
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pro spec pro color stain guard grout additive was added to pro spec grout and that was put down about 2-3 days ago. ....oyster was color which is light. My question would be... how will putting the unsanded grout, without the grout additive, adhere to the sanded grout, with the additive, that was put down 2-4 days ago? the tile guy is trying to fix it by putting unsanded grout without additive over the sanded grout which aleady has the sealer added. thanks....
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Old 07-30-2015, 05:54 AM   #7
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...when you say the grout dried uneven: do you mean blotchy with different coloring- or uneven like... it just wasn't tooled properly?

Blotchy discolorations are usually an issue with too much water added in the mixing process.

Improper tooling is usually the result of poor tile alignment or too much/little pressure when finishing the grouting process.

If I am correct in understanding you mistyped the grout size in the first post and it is 1/8" and not 3/16", I would have used non-sanded grout. All that said, and the fact that what is done is done- to correct this issue (and I don't know how flush to the tile surface the existing grout is...), I would take an oscillating multi-tool like a Dremel Multi-Max or any of the big brand Multi-tools (Fein, Makita etc, I love my Makita) and a 1/16" grout removal blade and score along all the grout lines. This would provide a better adhesion surface, mimicking a more normal grout joint for the non-sanded grout to adhere. If the tile was done well, you could also use a 1/8" grout removal blade instead, and clear closer to the tiles, and that would provide you with the best adhesion for the non-sanded grout.

I think there still could be a problem with that grout sealer allowing adhesion, but I'm not sure. Using something to score and grind down parts of the grout would be better than just applying a skim coat over the sealed sanded grout. Otherwise it's like putting latex paint over oil based paint. Where the paint will dry and peel away over time, the grout would dry and chip away without significant depth/adhesion surface.
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Old 07-30-2015, 10:57 AM   #8
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How large an area is this, size of tiles? I agree removing all the grout would be ideal, but may be a big job, plus if the same guy re grouts, might have the same results.

I don't know of a grout removal adaptor for the oscillating tool that is narrower than ⅛", never seen one 1/16".

He needs to call the company and see if grout stain would work with the additive used.

Sanded is the right grout for ⅛", but coulda used either.

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Old 07-30-2015, 01:04 PM   #9
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Dremel makes it- sold at my local big orange store: http://www.amazon.com/Dremel-MM501-1...l+1%2F16+grout

It's not the most common size removal blade (due to it's narrow size I believe..) which is why I no longer favor 1/16 grout joints when 1/8 look just as good, but 1/16 joints are also very common. But also- as was stated, it could be a very big task depending on the tile pattern (subway would be a lot more difficult since it's not a regular grid and that's what this tool favors- a square grid) and size.

I would also be VERY wary of this tiler. Anyone can buy a tile saw, a bucket, some sponges and knee pads, a drill, a mixing bit, and some notched trowels and call themselves a tiler. I have a guy I work with- he can tile, and he can tile fast. I wouldn't have him tile my home, however and I am very hesitant to have him do work without me around on our apartments. I can tile, but slowly- however I do a great job. I just don't like it (the drying out of my hands sucks, and I hate using lotion ). Anyways, it's one of those jobs that isn't like electrical where you can jest your way through stuff without dire consequences, and thus it's a lot more common to have someone say they can do it, and not worry about potential repercussions.

I don't know if he's part of a tiling company, a guy off the corner, a friend of a friend, or something else, but I would be careful. The fact that you're questioning him on here says something about that.

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Old 07-30-2015, 08:00 PM   #10
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Hurray for Dremel to make one that narrow. Anyway, there's another choice if the OP wants to go that way.

Jaz

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