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Old 01-11-2012, 11:33 PM   #16
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Sorry about that, the man at the lumber yard called it ledger board. You're right I vertically attached 4' 1"x8" boards. I only plan on a few holiday items, not heavy stuff.

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Old 01-11-2012, 11:38 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Truth View Post
Sorry about that, the man at the lumber yard called it ledger board. You're right I vertically attached 4' 1"x8" boards. I only plan on a few holiday items, not heavy stuff.
He meant that those boards are mostly sold to be used as ledgers.

(No need to apologize for things like that.)
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Old 01-11-2012, 11:42 PM   #18
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This is a 19 x 20' garage. The wall will be dividing the 19' span. However with the vertical posts attached to the rafters and ceiling joists the span between the posts is 8'. Although one of my builder friends said it would be fine my other carpenter friend said it will be fine if I don't put anything upstairs. I want two rooms nd I want this wall to perform double duty by ensuring it won't sag.
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Old 01-11-2012, 11:48 PM   #19
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Those posts in the attic will cut the span of the rafters (if the joists can take the extra load), but won't do much as far as cutting the span of the joists. One key piece of information you haven't provided is the size of the joists, but if you are going to use the attic just for light storage, you don't need to worry about their size.

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Old 01-11-2012, 11:52 PM   #20
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Rafters and joists are 2 x 6 - 24 oc
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Old 01-12-2012, 12:14 AM   #21
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Thank you everyone... I appreciate all the input and advice!
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Old 01-12-2012, 05:33 PM   #22
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Add the plastic under the plate unless you are sure there is one present between the slab/earth: http://www.greenbuildingadvisor.com/...-building-code

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17,000 dryer fires a year, when did you last clean the inside of the dryer near motor or the exhaust ducting?
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Old 01-12-2012, 09:22 PM   #23
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If you want to get really technical attach you bottom plate centred between the studs, not near a stud. So if moisture comes up the area of the screw it is not near the untreated stud.
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Old 01-13-2012, 06:28 AM   #24
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Great link and advice GBR... Thank you. I did install a portion of the wall already and code did not require me to have the plastic underneath... However the remaining 10 feet of wall will have plastic under the pt plate bc I'm not sure if this garage has plastic between earth and concrete. Is there something I can brush or spray on the bottom of the installed studs in the event wicking may occur (FYI...previous owner had a beam that according to engineer was doing nothing supported by kd 2x4 and I've been here for 4 years and the regular upright 2x4 lame wood post has no rot of any sort)
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Old 01-13-2012, 09:36 PM   #25
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You can try a water-proofing liquid, like a deck treatment, though I don't know how well that will work now. You may not have a problem, or possibly will...... Nice answer? Depends on the site conditions; drainage around the slab, underground water sources, capillary action, etc. If the wall framing will remain open, the moving air currents should keep it all dry.

Extreme is caulking the wedge-anchor holes before installing the fasteners, been there, done that. Lol

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Old 01-16-2012, 01:42 PM   #26
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Wall is complete and it's plumb I also have a 1' tall concrete wall around the perimeter of the garage which is 10" thick. On top of that sits 2x4 studded walls that are 8' tall. I've been given much advise on how to handle this, however much of the advice is conflicting. I am thinking the best solution is to put 6mil vapor barrier over concrete portion and use construction adhesive to seal it where the concrete wall meets the plate of the wood wall. Then install pt wood studs to the concrete (w vapor barrier in between) and extend up 4 and adding horizontal supports as well creating an aesthically pleasing shelf around the perimeter of the room. Then foam board insulation against the barrier that's against the concrete portion inbetween the studs and add drywall...any thoughts as I greatly appreciate your wisdom!

Last edited by Truth; 01-16-2012 at 01:45 PM. Reason: Spelling errors galore
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Old 01-16-2012, 06:47 PM   #27
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So what is the end use of these two rooms, will they be conditioned?

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Old 01-16-2012, 07:13 PM   #28
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Yes. Heating and cooling vents already installed (forced hot air). Basically bedrooms (possibly office).

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