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Old 06-30-2014, 02:04 PM   #1
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fixing builders, they wont see this it's covered over


Hello

I am in the process of fixing my new home, and I mean we bought as a new build from the builder, this involves stripping it to the studs to fix electrical plumbing, structural, insulation/vapor barrier. It's a long story, yes we had a home inspector he missed everything, we ended up in court, we won now fixing it. Enough said on that.

The home has pine tongue and groove on the walls, ceiling, he did not put any drywall behind it, I am to the point in one room where I starting to put up the drywall, the pine will go back up as well. The interior doors are pine doors, the jams are meant for 2X4 drywall walls. Now that I am putting up dry wall and then the pine the door frames are going to be "short". My Idea is to re-frame the rough opening for the doors to enlarge the openings and then I can rip pine 1X8 down to size to use as a door frame around the existing door frame this will then gap the distance that the existing door frames leave with the added depth of the drywall adds.

The added work of re-framing the door is not an issue.

Does this sound like it's going to be adequate?

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Old 06-30-2014, 07:32 PM   #2
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fixing builders, they wont see this it's covered over


There called jamb extensions, done all the time.
Use stop moulding and there's no need to rip anything. It's 3/4 X 1/2 already.
Do not try and line them up with the jambs.
Set them back by about 3/16"
Now all your windows, doors, outlets, ECT. are also going to be off and need extensions.
There was no need for drywall if it's 3/4 T X G, not plywood paneling.

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Old 07-01-2014, 02:11 PM   #3
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I have a ten by forty two story solarium, two by six walls with r-19 insulation, then 6 mil plastic vapor barrier, then 3/4 T & G pine. Right from the sawmill. Worked fine for 30 years so far. Not sure why you would put sheetrock behind it. Ron
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Old 07-01-2014, 02:37 PM   #4
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drywall is required behind panlleing do to fire codes
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Old 07-01-2014, 03:09 PM   #5
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Drywall may be required behind PANELING, but the OP referenced instead pine tongue and groove, an entirely different animal than the thin paneling you normally see. Ron
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Old 07-01-2014, 04:01 PM   #6
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All depends on local codes also and there's location mentioned.
Would be interesting if the O/P ever comes back to see what they feel the Home inspector missed.
In new construction it's the job of the building inspector to find flaws in the construction not a home inspector.
A home inspector does not have X ray vision and is not going to be opening anything up to find flaws.
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Old 07-02-2014, 02:03 AM   #7
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The construction inspector passed everything, did not matter that it was wrong, were waiting for the DA to file charges on builder and engineer and possibly real estate agent they had a ring thing going on, troopers investigated for 2 years. There were enough red flags our home inspector should have found enough for us to pass on the home he did not need x-ray vision just do his job. Yes it is rare for a home inspector to be held accountable just glad it happened for us.
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Old 07-02-2014, 06:45 AM   #8
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That's a shame---nasty disappointment---

If you are buying new doors--see what the cost os to have wider jambs made--our local door supplier does not charge a lot for custom width jambs--
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Old 07-02-2014, 10:24 AM   #9
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fixing builders, they wont see this it's covered over


As for the question of being able to rip your own door jambs from the 1X8, yes, you can make your own jambs from the 1X8. I personally rather have new jambs than have jamb extensions, the extensions can mess up the hinges and can be bad on the fingers opening the door if added on the door side of the jamb. Where a person doesn't want to go the extra mile and install new jambs then the only answer would be jamb extensions.

You will need to make new door stops unless you can use the old ones. For exterior doors the 1X8 will not work for jambs, you will have problems making your own exterior jambs because of the weather stripping and threshold strip. Something to think about.
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Old 07-02-2014, 03:24 PM   #10
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Thanks for your responses, I am going to have to figure out the exterior doors, front door is under a 42 foot by 12 foot covered porch/deck so at least for that door I will not have to worry about water penetrations just air.

Just going to work my way through one room at a time as much as possible leaving opened up what I need to. Main goal is to get the vapor barrier and insulation and ceilings up as well as plumbing venting and anything else that needs to go up through the attic before the end of summer/beginning of winter AK winters are long so that portion is a must if I want to keep warm this winter.

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