I have a house built in 2001 with a 44'x26' basement that is partially above grade on the east 26' run but otherwise mostly beneath grade. I have no known leaks but I do have a few hairline cracks mostly in the grout path. Recently, to reduce the dust odor in the basement more than anything else, I applied Drylok everywhere.
There is one small 6' wide area that was damp because the water faucet had frozen and burst (woops) and ran for nearly four hours. I'm not very concerned about this at the moment because I don't intend to build a wall in that corner and it had dried before I applied the Drylok.
I'm probably going to buy platon sub-flooring (systemplaton.com) on two 8' x 65' spools mostly for the warmth benefits. I wish I found this stuff for the foundation ten years ago! I'm planning on putting 3/4" T&G plywood on the platon flooring. My math says it's going to run me about .80 per sqf. The slab is 4" and there is a 6mil vapor barrier between it and the 4" base, and I have no visible water issues but I love the idea of raising carpet padding off the cement pad.
So here are some questions that have cropped up as I've read many threads here over the past few days.
- Since I have drylok on the wall is there anything wrong with building with the 2x4 studs against the block? Do I need to bother with a vapor barrier? This seems to be a contentious issue.
- If I'm building my walls on a plywood subfloor I don't need to use any treated lumber for the bottom plate right?
- The interior stairs that come into the basement unfortunately end just 3' away from one of my block walls that I want to finish. What are my options here or should I just build it out with 2x4 framing and accept the narrow turn? The steel door at the bottom of my strait stairs to the basement also hinges at and opens right into the block. The pre-hung door was built right up against the darn block by the builder, so the same framing dilema exists here... Any easy tricks for this?
- Has anyone here used platon flooring? What do you think and how did you fasten it? I've read rave reviews of it.
- I intentionally worked with the builder to move the furnace and water heater to one end of the basement to give me maximum finishing dimensions. Unfortunately I didn't catch them bringing the water main in through the floor about 2.5 in from one wall and 5' from the other. It comes up about 3' and makes a 90 degree turn. The meter is between that turn and the wall.
1. Am I obsessing over the idea of lowering that 90 degree turn lower to the wall so I can try to box it in? I may take a picture of this and post it.
2. Is there a common plumbing code that says the meter must be anywhere specific such as within the first X feet after entering the home? I've considered (this is crazy) hiring a plumber to do #1 and move that meter to the other side of the basement where the furnace is to make that clicking noise get out of my potential office or entertainment room. Am I nuts?
- If I box in my furnace/water heater area how do I determine how to properly vent that room for combustion air?
- I have no cold air return vents in the basement. I've eyed up some easy ways to tap into the cold air return vents, but do I need to involve some HVAC guys? Am I going to severely alter the design of the airflow or just increase air movement in the basement?
Anyone have a list of "I wish I did that in my basement" after the fact items?