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coyote97 03-06-2012 07:43 PM

Epoxy Resin Countertops
Hello everyone. I am a long-time lurker of this site and have gleaned a lot of useful information from all of you along the way during my many varied projects. This time I have a specific dilemma that I need your help with.

I recently became the owner of second-hand epoxy resin countertops, like the kind that they use in commercial laboratories. They are solid resin, weigh about 15 pounds per square foot. The countertops are supposed to be impervious to chemicals and heat, and are durable. I am planning to install them during my kitchen remodel. I was able to cut them to size using a diamond blade in a circular saw, sawing about 1/4 inch each time.

Here's my question. During the removal and shipping to my house, the countertops sustained some scratches. I have experimented with different types of sandpaper, machine/by hand, etc. On test pieces, i can get the scratches out, but it leaves the finish duller than the area around it. Has anyone used this type of material before? Any hints on how I can finish it so that the shine is consistent? I have tried traditional sandpaper and automotive sandpaper, which works better but still dulls the finish. Would coating it with another type of paint, etc be more appropriate? I'm not opposed to painting it, but before I incur the cost and time, I wanted to check in with all of you first.

They are great, solid countertops that fit with the overall design of the kitchen, so I am anxious to make them work.

Thanks for any input or design ideas!

sevenlol 03-06-2012 08:40 PM

try a scotchbrite pad. this is what we use on joints for "corian" type countertops as a finishing step after very fine sandpaper.

have to do it by hand, i don't know of any that go on a sander. but it doesn't take too much rubbing to bring out the shine.

kwikfishron 03-06-2012 09:02 PM

199 Attachment(s)
The only way you’re going to get that glass like finish back is to pour another layer of epoxy.

I’ve spent way to much time trying to do what you’re hoping to do with less than prefect results.

If you want it to look like glass again then you need to pour it again.

coyote97 03-06-2012 09:03 PM

Wet or dry?

joecaption 03-06-2012 09:14 PM

Rubbing compound on a rag may also help get the tiny scratches out.
Products lke 3M fiberglass restorer work well to.
It can take an oxidized scratched boat and make it look new.

kwikfishron 03-06-2012 09:45 PM

199 Attachment(s)

Originally Posted by joecaption (Post 872407)
Rubbing compound on a rag may also help get the tiny scratches out.
Products lke 3M fiberglass restorer work well to.
It can take an oxidized scratched boat and make it look new.

Sure it "may" get the scratches out but you’ll never have the perfect “glass finish” (at all angles and light) again.

If you (or anyone) can show me how to get that perfect "all angle" glass finish without pouring again... I’ll send you some bucks.

coyote97 03-06-2012 10:26 PM

I'm not really striving for the perfect glass finish. I just would like the finish to be consistent and if I could get a satin finish I would be happy.

sevenlol 03-06-2012 11:25 PM

or spend 2 dollars on a scotchbrite pad and try it out....

coyote97 03-07-2012 09:06 AM

I tried the scotchbrite pad last night. It does buff the surface to a mild sheen. It's apparent that any deep scratches will have to be treated differently, either filled with a two part epoxy and then sanded, or just sanding alone. After I used the pad, I sprayed it with a solid surface polisher/cleaner and buffed it. I waited until this morning before I could accurately judge on the result based on evaporation and better light. I have to say that I am fairly pleased with the result, and that it will be acceptable for us. It's not the mirror glass finish, but we really didn't want that anyway with its propensity to show dust, etc.

princelake 03-07-2012 09:23 AM

pour some acetone on it and give it a really good rub with a rag. sanding it with a palm sander is the way to go. are these the type of counters you have?
if all else fails give them a call

coyote97 03-07-2012 02:31 PM

I have found that using a palm sander with 100 grit on the surface really imbeds the swirl marks to the point where they cannot be removed. What is the purpose of the acetone?

kwikfishron 03-07-2012 08:36 PM

199 Attachment(s)
If you want to clean it up (like new) you need to pour it again. It's not that difficult if follow the rules.

You don't mention how large of an area your dealing with but $80 worth of epoxy is (in my area) enough to cover a sheet of plywood worth of surface.

You can not sand an epoxy top and end up with a clear surface.

The best you can do with sanding is ending up with a satin finish and that's using #0000 steel wool.

It's not going to happen with 100 grit or a scotch bright pad.

You can use auto body rubbing compound and the cloth wheel on a dremel for small scratches and the results may be good enough for you but for a like new finish re-pouring is the only way.

coyote97 03-07-2012 09:05 PM

These tops are not clear and they are not poured. They are black and when you cut them they are gray inside. Deep scratches show as white/gray.

kwikfishron 03-07-2012 09:46 PM

199 Attachment(s)
Post some pictures.

coyote97 03-08-2012 09:22 PM

3 Attachment(s)
Here are some pictures. Two show the edge finish. The other one depicts one of the larger, deeper scratches.

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