Go Back   DIY Chatroom Home Improvement Forum > Home Improvement > Remodeling

CLICK HERE AND JOIN OUR COMMUNITY TODAY...IT'S FREE!

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 01-03-2013, 12:14 PM   #1
Newbie
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 3
Rewards Points: 10
Default

Door frame size


hello,

I am new to the forum. I have an old home (built around 1900) that some previous owners have done some DIY with that was obviously not done correctly. For example the previous owners put in new outside doors, probably due to a suggestion by a Realtor.

I am not an expert but it is clear to me that these doors are not right. I'm not sure if this is something that is fixable or if I just need to replace these doors. The doors do not have any casing or molding installed, and the hinge framing is not even with the drywall inside. From the edge of the drywall the hinge framing goes in about an inch or so. Is this the case of a door that is just too small or is there a way to remedy this?

Thanks,
Brian

vuotto is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-03-2013, 12:19 PM   #2
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Hartfield VA
Posts: 26,987
Rewards Points: 3,090
Default

Door frame size


Post picture.

joecaption is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-04-2013, 10:01 PM   #3
remodeling pro
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 1,399
Rewards Points: 500
Default

Door frame size


Speculation without a pic, but it sounds like some clueless person tried to install a modern width door jamb unit in a wall that is thicker than found in modern construction. It is not uncommon for older houses to have thicker walls than newer construction due to the dimensions of old, rough cut lumber vs modern dressed framing lumber, and the varying thickness of plaster jobs. If you want to save the units, thay will have to be removed and installed so that the hinge side of the jamb is flush with the wall surface, than you can add extensions to the other side to flush it out; then door casing as usual. If you want to replace the unit, use a lumber yard or mill supplier that will order custom width jambs on the unit. It will cost more, but is worth it IMO. Be sure to measure the wall thickness in at least 3 or 4 places and use the thickest dimension.
troubleseeker is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-20-2013, 01:25 PM   #4
Newbie
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 3
Rewards Points: 10
Default

Door frame size


Here is a link to a picture of the door:

https://www.box.com/s/s4himbucbrstlde9e1uy

Its pretty much like this all the way around.

Brian
vuotto is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-20-2013, 03:02 PM   #5
journeyman carpenter
 
woodworkbykirk's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: nova scotia canada
Posts: 2,719
Rewards Points: 2,054
Default

Door frame size


thats minor.. this is really common. all you need is to rip some furring strips out some pine so you have a nailing surface for the casing

i say use pine because its far less likely to split than mdf when making thin pieces.. you can pin them directly to the door frame. just be sure to have a 1/4" reveal so the hinges can still operate smoothly
woodworkbykirk is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-20-2013, 03:59 PM   #6
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Hartfield VA
Posts: 26,987
Rewards Points: 3,090
Default

Door frame size


Someone was to cheap to order jamb extentions or a wider jamb.
Get a measurement with something laying flat againt the wall to the jamb.
It's easyer for a DIY with few tools to just find a stock moulding that will extended it out.
Make sure to cut that foam out of the way first.
Make sure to predrill the holes and use finish nails that go into the jambs at least 1".
joecaption is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-20-2013, 06:29 PM   #7
journeyman carpenter
 
woodworkbykirk's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: nova scotia canada
Posts: 2,719
Rewards Points: 2,054
Default

Door frame size


Quote:
Originally Posted by joecaption View Post
Someone was to cheap to order jamb extentions or a wider jamb.
Get a measurement with something laying flat againt the wall to the jamb.
It's easyer for a DIY with few tools to just find a stock moulding that will extended it out.
Make sure to cut that foam out of the way first.
Make sure to predrill the holes and use finish nails that go into the jambs at least 1".


the house may have had foam put on the house and new siding installed.. doing so pushes out where the door will sit in relation to the wall so furring strips are a given
woodworkbykirk is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-20-2013, 07:03 PM   #8
Member
 
funfool's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Albuquerque NM
Posts: 702
Rewards Points: 500
Default

Door frame size


I would never order jamb extensions.
Ask any carpenter about jamb extensions, will know what you are talking about.
But these are made and not bought.

when you measure, may find you need 1" at top and 3/4" at bottom.
Move to other side of door and the dimensions may change.
Is why you will not walk into a real hardware store and buy a jamb extension ... they will sell you the material to make one.
__________________
If it was easy, we would not call it work!
funfool is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-20-2013, 09:44 PM   #9
Newbie
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 3
Rewards Points: 10
Default

Door frame size


Thanks for all the input, so overall I'm getting that I don't need to replace the doors to remedy the situation, I just need to bring the jamb flush with the drywall.

I can just cut the foam back, I put that in there myself to keep the drafts out until I get the door finished. Thanks for all the input everyone.

Brian
vuotto is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-21-2013, 06:59 PM   #10
Registered User
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 9,968
Rewards Points: 2,000
Default

Door frame size


I would check the screw length in the existing deadbolt strikes. Many times with those less expensive sets, the security is minimal, you could always add another plate behind the existing ones and longer 3" screws. eg. http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1...1#.UP3ii1KsnAU

Gary

__________________
If any ads are present in my answer above, I do not condone/support/use the product or services listed, they are there against my permission.
Gary in WA is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Sink Size Specs - Advice needed donvaz Kitchen & Bath Remodeling 1 08-12-2012 01:39 PM
wire size for 1575 inverter 15' from battery bluemoonshine Electrical 8 12-28-2011 09:49 AM
Rule of Thumb for Trowel size and Spacer size please.. K.M.G Flooring 7 02-08-2010 08:13 PM
Determining Boot/Register Size Earnie HVAC 15 12-31-2009 05:00 PM
Building a patio cover...span and size of lumber Q's jongordo8 Building & Construction 1 08-30-2009 12:08 AM




Top of Page | View New Posts

Copyright © 2003-2014 Escalate Media. All Rights Reserved.