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-   -   DIY - Vinyl Siding over Cedar Shakes (http://www.diychatroom.com/f15/diy-vinyl-siding-over-cedar-shakes-152241/)

rebelranger 08-01-2012 03:27 PM

DIY - Vinyl Siding over Cedar Shakes
 
Ok so I have cedar shakes and although I painted them last year they are just ugly! There isn't a mold or insect problem, they are just ugly. So, I just want to put vinyl siding up. Please don't discuss personal opinions on vinyl siding.

My question/issue is can I put 1" foam seethering over the cedar shake to get an additional R6 insulation value and level the siding for install of the vinyl?

Do I go Cedar Shake > Vapor Barrier> Insulation foam board> TYVEK > Vinyl siding?

All my windows are new double hung, triple pane, low E, Argon Filled deals and my doors open inward so I won't have to extend any jams.

Any ideas? Thank you so much?

What have you done for hanging your own Vinyl Siding?

joecaption 08-01-2012 03:53 PM

Post a few pictures, one of the window and one of the door.

I would remove the cedar, install house wrap, then just the siding.
Fan fold is expencive and will give you a very low R value.

The main reason I suggest remove the old siding is by the time you add the siding trim and the foam you suggest it's going to throw off the window and door trim. Been there tryed that with a few customers, once it was almost done they wanted me to go back and do it the way I had already suggested.

rebelranger 08-02-2012 07:54 AM

So remove cedar shakes then install foam board and put house wrap over then siding.

I don't have any close up pictures with me but here is an exterior view http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphoto..._3839907_n.jpg

What do you think, easy DIY or hard DIY?

joecaption 08-02-2012 08:19 AM

Skip the foam.
Do you know how the walls are insulated now?

Ever installed siding before?

If I was doing this job I would have at least one 24' aluminum walk board, a bunch of step and extention ladders, ladder stand offs and ladder jacks, a dumpster, a metal brake, seamers and at least 3 people.

Since your going for 0 maintaince it would be best to also wrap the fashias and add vinyl vented soffits. If the brick moulding is wood they also could be wrapped to the whole house would not need painting.

I see no reason you could not remove the shutters and old siding, install the house wrap, but I would suggest leaving the wrapping the trim and instaling the the soffit. fasha coil stock and at least the J moulding around the doors and windows, siding blocks, starter strips to the pros.

Siding sounds like an easy job and for someone that does it all the time it is, but there's lots of rules that need to be followed to get it right.

Nail it to tight or cut it to long and it's going to buckle.
Install it in the wrong direction and the seams will show as you approch the home.
Cut the J moulding wrong around the windows and doors it may leak or the butts open up.
Skip the Z molding over the windows and it will allow water in behind the trim.
Cut the rakes wrong and there's going to be a gap to let water in.

rebelranger 08-02-2012 08:46 AM

The walls are R13 batts (at least the walls I've opened so far are). I was hoping to get an additional R6 with foam seething but I can live without it.

I've never installed vinyl siding before, I've done wooden siding and brick/block.

You would install directly over the cedar? Why 3 people? Could 1 do it just slower?

I do want the vented soffits (I know I'll need to get in the attic and install the rafter vents) but I want to help move air through the attic.

The "brick moulding" is actual stone so it's staying, I can just J-channel around it.

joecaption 08-02-2012 09:06 AM

I've mentioned twice I'd remove the old siding.
If you add the foam your going to have to build out all the window and door trim then wrap it. Not that big a deal just more time and money.

Look agin at the moulding around the doors and windows, no way it's stone.
They could also wrap the mullen strips, window jams, door jams, window sills.

rebelranger 08-02-2012 09:25 AM

Sorry on asking about the old cedar removal...I got mixed up on your post.

Yes the moulding isn't stone, I thought you meant around the garage.

When you say wrap the jams, what exactly do you mean?

Remember I'm wanting to DIY this, however the more I'm learning from you may sway my decision

joecaption 08-02-2012 09:34 AM

Wrapping is done with aluminum coil stock at almost $100.00 a roll (50' X 24")
And bent to shape on what's called a brake, Which is an over $1500.00 tool.
Any siding company will have at least one, yes you could rent one but by the time you got through the learning curve I could have wrapped a couple of windows and not had all the waste material from mistakes and it would look better.
It's bent to match the profile of the wood it's covering and nailed in place with Stainless steel trim nails.
It's avalible is dozens of differant colors, and two differant finishes. PVC coated or just plain painted.
I like the PVC coated best, It holds up better and is harder to scratch off the finish.

Look around at some other homes and I'm sure you will see it used. Almost all newer home use it.

Also if you plan on installing replacement windows, it's best to have all the wraping done before installing the windows.
That way the metal can be run all the way to the window stool so there's no chance of water leaks at the sill.
(The stool is the inside piece at the bottom of the window, a sill is outside at an angle)

rebelranger 08-02-2012 09:41 AM

Thanks that makes sense, now that I think about it.

Last question/issue - if I was dead set on adding R6 1" foam board what kind of extra time/cost would that add for a pro like you? What would have to be done past extending window/door jams?

joecaption 08-02-2012 09:47 AM

Not going to guess a cost.
Just guessing but I'd guess at least adding 3 or 4 days of labor.
It may also act as a double vaper barrer in the wall and cause condinsation issues.
The vaper barrier really needs to be on the inside not the outside.


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