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SouthGAreno 03-21-2007 07:59 PM

Curved corners where drywall meets?
1 Attachment(s)
I am attempting to make curved corners instead of straight 90 degree corners for the wall-ceiling and wall-wall corners in my bathroom renovation. See attached simple scetch.

I've been using USG "Plus-3 Lightweight All Purpose Joint Compound" for taped joints and initial 90 degree corners with fine results. I like the Plus-3 because it sands well - its dust has less tendency to fly into the air and tends to drop right down.

I started 'curving' the corners using my homemade version of, what I initially thought was like, an adjustable Bull-nose trowel using the same USG Plus-3 mud. I've been building up layers bit by bit (I'm in no particular hurry) and feather out. As each layer dries and cracks a bit as with normal "first coats". I just sand a bit and/or sponge sand evening out as much as possible in-between layers. I've even thinned the mud and painted some on with a paint brush. I've added a bit of dish detergent to the mud to reduce the bubble holes and get more smoothness. This has all been working fine.

I've ordered an adjustable "Versa-Trowel Bull Trowel" from for corners I haven't started yet because I was thinking it would be easier in the long run for the price. It's supposed to be adjustable between 88 and 155 degrees. I'm waiting to see if it would help or not. I'm thinking it is really for corners where the drywall meets at odd angle due to off 90 angles like dormers, etc. Thus, it would still give "straight" corners - just not at 90 degrees - no curve though.

My paranoia began when another renovator (son-in-law) saw my interim job (with some cracks) and said there was too much mud and it would continue to crack. Now I'm worried about the long term ramifications; like cracking through paint or even the whole corner curve just falling off months or years down the road.

Surely there is a way (or technology) to sculpt curved corners or man wouldn't have landed on the moon. Something like an adobe architecture.

My questions are: Am I using the wrong technique, or the wrong mud (USG makes lots of different plasters), or the wrong tools? Possibly when starting other corners I should use vinyl inside corner beads? But, I want way more of a curved corner than I've seen in the vinyl inside corner beads.

I am now worried that I'm using the wrong kind of mud or plaster. Maybe I should have used a plaster that "sticks" much more over the long run? I've never used "Durabond" and don't know if it's more appropriate? Changing plasters would be okay except that I've done quite a bit with the "Plus-3 Lightweight".

I've been doing drywall and mudding on and off for a many years with total success. I also have experience with "life-casting" using silicon molds and hydrocal plaster. Hydrocal might be okay except that it sets up hard as a rock in something like 15 minutes. It's really made for casting in molds.

Any thoughts??,


Zero Punch 03-21-2007 09:11 PM

You don't say how large a radius you want to achieve. There are several indside and outside radius corner beads available here's a link to one manufacture there are others;

Darylh 03-21-2007 09:54 PM

Two things I'd like to mention.
1- Any reson why you did not go with a cove moulding. They make them in wood, and drywall.
2- Anytime you put to much mud on runs a high risk of cracking.

SouthGAreno 03-22-2007 02:30 AM

Curved corners ....
1 Attachment(s)
I am totally impressed at how quickly you guys replied to me!!

Zero Punch, I like the vinyl bullnose corner beads at the site you pointed me to. Am I to assume that 1 1/2 inch radius is like laying a 3 inch diameter pipe in the 90 degree corner (e.g., ceiling-wall corner), and saying the radius of the pipe is where the ceiling and the wall tangentially intersect with the pipe?? (see attached sketch). If this is the case I would be quite happy. I was actually laying a 2" pipe and trying to approximate that (i.e., 1" radius if my sketch assumption is correct). A smooth 1 1/2 inch radius would be just great. BTW, Hamilton Drywall Products appears to make a 3-way bullnose cap for where the three corners meet. Now all I have to figure out is how to not order 10 zillion of these things - just 50 to 100 feet or so and around 10 3-way caps.

Darylh, thank you for the affirmation that too much mud will crack. I still think there is a specialty mud/plaster out there that one can "sculpt" the shapes they want with. But, this also brings me to the point of, if using the vinyl bullnose inside corners, there's still a bit of "layering/smoothing" work involved to feather in the vinyl bullnose (unless I'm missing something). Is one mud compound better than another (e.g., Durabond)?

Regarding the cove moulding. I'm looking for a smooth sculpted look. I might worry about wood possibly because of moisture issues. Drywall cove moulding sounds interesting but I've never see it and I'm not sure how it would make the curved transition I'm looking for (see sketch). Do you nail/screw/mud it in the same as the vinyl bullnose beads?
Some of this work is at the ceiling-wall and wall-wall above a shower/tub insert. I'm paranoid about mold and I've noticed that mold likes tight corners with moisture more that smooth curved things.

Thank you both for your good ideas. Please let me know if I've gone astray with my interpretations. I would be happy to post pictures of the work and any of the issues. If I have to restart, my first issue will be to get what I've done off the wall!:001_unsure:

Thanks again,

zel 03-22-2007 06:18 AM

I would highly recommend using the corner beads. I dont think drywall compound is made for sculpting like your doing. Maybe theres an additive or something that makes it more durable?

AtlanticWBConst. 03-22-2007 06:48 AM

What he said...

AtlanticWBConst. 03-22-2007 06:53 AM

When these kinds of designs are done on high end drywall work...vinyl bead trim is used....

It is called: 'Vinyl' bullnose inside-corner bead

(Joint compound built up like that in a corner will most definitely crack...)

SouthGAreno 03-22-2007 08:13 PM

More curved corner questions and pictures
6 Attachment(s)
Thank you all for getting back to me so quickly again!

I've attached another sketch (oops - at the end of the pictures) that hopefully illustrates my understanding of the corner beads. believe I used the wrong corner bead in my previous sketch. I'm thinking the bead I would want has the flange (used to attach and mud the bead to the wall) BELOW the start of the curve on the side (as shown in the new sketch) so that the nails or screws and the flange itself can be smoothed over with mud.

Don't be confused with the red circle in the sketch. It's an imaginary pipe to help me clarify the size of the curve provided by the bead and the "radius" thing. That is, the bead curve is an arch on the imaginary (red) circle. The circle has a radius of 1 1/2 inches. Thus, if one layed a 3" pipe in the seam of 2 walls joined at 90 degrees, one would get an idea of the size of the inside curve the size of curve I should expect when using a 1 1/2 radius inside-corner bead for 90 degree corners? This is a question for you all.

If the answer to above question is true, I would know what I'm getting.

Just a couple of more questions:
1) What do you think of the "Bullnose 3-way Inside Corner" cap (See attached picture)? Also, see:

2) Do you put any layers of mud on the actual inside curve of the corner bead along with filling and feathering the side flanges for attaching the bead to the wall? My adjustable "Versa-Trowel Flex-Cove" trowel arrived today and it is exactly what I originally wanted.:) Looks like it would do a layering job like I've been doing and would also help with mudding in the 1 1/2 inch radius inside-corner bead.?

3) Is there a place where I can get a smaller amount of the inside-corner bead and corner caps?

4) What is the best mud compound to be using? Is it okay to continue with USG's Plus-3 Lightweight All-Purpose? I certainly do not mind switching to something else if it's more appropriate. Durabond?

5) What's the best way to remove the dried compound I've already layered on, since now I really want the inside-corner beads (if my 1 1/2 inch radius size assumptions are correct)?

Also see the 4 attached pictures of what I've done so far. One of the pictures with the shower pipe sticking out is a pic of before I started doing the curve thing.

Thanks again,

Mogal 11-14-2007 12:12 PM

So how did you make out with this project?

fulcrum1 09-18-2010 02:33 PM

Curved corners for drywall

Blondesense 09-20-2010 11:25 AM

SPAM on a three year old thread.

Christopherr 01-17-2013 01:23 PM

Curved ceiling corners - to remove or not?
I want some opinions on this.

My small small 25 sq ft bathroom was remodelled 15 - 20 years ago and the ceiling was curved and stippled (if that's the correct term) all around the corners. It looks nice and professional. I could provide pic

Now the opinionated part - my wife wants the the nice (in my opinion) ceiling removed and returned back to plain square corners. Yes I can do rip it out and do it but will this lower impact the price overall value of the house?

We are redoing our bathroom (taking the task on myself) new vanity, and new tub shower 3 pc unit (currently the shower tub has tiles on wall with mold issue in the grout). Initially the bathroom did not have a heater vent and now does probably why the mold grew in the first place).

I suppose it's a matter of taste for the looks. So does anyone have thoughts on the ceiling?

Blondesense 01-17-2013 03:10 PM

Christopherr, if you start a new thread and add some pics you are much more likely to get some suggestions. These old threads tend to get over looked.

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