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hellothere123 04-19-2013 10:07 PM

Couple questions on reno for kitchen and bathroom
 
Kitchen coutertops

right now I have arborite countertops, I was thinking of removing the old arborite (I heard you can with help of an iron), then releveling and placing new arborite ontop. Good idea or too cheap??? I cant find any info on doing this anywhere...any ideas?


I am redoing the bathroom and its on inside walls, I am redrywalling with moisture res drywall, but wondering if its a good idea to insulate (batt) and poly? I say this on Leave it to Bryan and he said he does it to reduce sound? wondering if this is a good idea? I am installing a acrylic 3 piece tub unit...do I need to drywall behind the tub?

Thanks

TarheelTerp 04-19-2013 10:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hellothere123 (Post 1163092)
right now I have arborite countertops, I was thinking of removing the old arborite (I heard you can with help of an iron), then releveling and placing new arborite ontop. Good idea or too cheap???

Too cheap.

Arborite is a brand name for plastic laminate (like Formica or Wisonart).
The plywood underlay is not expensive enough to justify reusing it

If you can get the top out in one piece...
put the whole thing in the basement or garage as a work bench.

InspectorZo 04-20-2013 01:02 AM

Good advice from TarheelTerp. I'm just adding info to your other questions.
Insulation is so cheap, it's a good idea to stick it anywhere for sound, draft, and insulation. As to the drywall backing, yes! The Acrylic tub walls are about 1/8" thick. If you don't provide backing, the water will tap on the thin walls as if they are hollow and worse, if you ever lose your balance, your going right through that thin nothing.
Splurge for the drywall and the insulation... There is smart cheap, this isn't!
Good Luck! :thumbsup:

InspectorZo

Quote:

Originally Posted by hellothere123 (Post 1163092)
Kitchen coutertops

right now I have arborite countertops, I was thinking of removing the old arborite (I heard you can with help of an iron), then releveling and placing new arborite ontop. Good idea or too cheap??? I cant find any info on doing this anywhere...any ideas?


I am redoing the bathroom and its on inside walls, I am redrywalling with moisture res drywall, but wondering if its a good idea to insulate (batt) and poly? I say this on Leave it to Bryan and he said he does it to reduce sound? wondering if this is a good idea? I am installing a acrylic 3 piece tub unit...do I need to drywall behind the tub?

Thanks


wkearney99 04-20-2013 07:43 AM

If it's just a soaker tub and will NEVER be used as a shower you could get away with using drywall intended for areas with moisture. But 'never say never'. Because the damage that will result should the drywall get wet will undoubtedly cost CONSIDERABLY more to repair that it would have ever cost to have done it right in the first place.

joecaption 04-20-2013 11:10 AM

Depends on which enclosure you buy.
The better ones are nailed directly to the studs with no sheetrock behind them. The sheetrock covers the outside edges.
A nail on is at least thee times thicker then a glue on.
A glue on will need drywall behind it.

mae-ling 04-20-2013 11:52 AM

And where the sheetrock covers the outside edges you may want/need to shim the walls to keep the drywall flat so it doesn't kick out at the lip it goes over.

user1007 04-20-2013 12:22 PM

If your laminate had a drymount sort of melted adhesive you might get it off by heating it up again. Usually it is affixed with contact adhesive and it is unlikely you will get it off. Sometimes the edging comes with heat adhesive.

mae-ling 04-20-2013 12:24 PM

Sometimes heat does work, other times use acetone, very strong smell so make sure you open windows etc.
If it has square edges you may be able to redo it, but better to just replace plywood and all.
If it has rounded front or attached backsplash then you need a whole new one.

user1007 04-20-2013 12:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mae-ling (Post 1163480)
Sometimes heat does work, other times use acetone, very strong smell so make sure you open windows etc.
If it has square edges you may be able to redo it, but better to just replace plywood and all.
If it has rounded front or attached backsplash then you need a whole new one.

Acetone evaporates very quickly and more than smelling bad, it is definitely up there at the top of the list for brain cell killers. I would wear an aspirator with the appropriate cartridge and have all the windows wide open and an exhaust fan going. Turn the central HVAC off so the fumes do not get through the whole house.

And it is not exactly inexpensive. I am guessing $18-ish a gallon, retail? You can probably replace at least a few linear feet of countertop for what it will cost you, if the solvent even works, to buy enough acetone. The odds of getting a laminate off cleanly without dinging up the particle board or ply surface under it are marginal, IMO.

Use it for a workbench or laundry room surface as suggested and get the countertops you want.


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