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Old 04-07-2008, 04:40 PM   #31
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Cost to Drywall hang/finish...please read, good explanation


We managed to save on our dry wall costs by finding someone willing to work with us. We bought and had all of the supplies delivered after he told us what we would need. He even recommended a good contractor sales place. We offered to be an extra set of hands on the long pieces of drywall and did most of the sanding and all of the clean-up ourselves. (He showed us how to sand and came back to touch up anything we missed.) Before hand we had installed all of our own insulation and afterwards we did the priming and painting. If you are still balking at high costs it may be worth asking around about helping with the job. Also ask about things such as if they will move/cover your furniture, if they clean everything up, and if they dry or wet sand. We lucked out with a great drywaller who taught us a lot and did some exceptional work. We have a 20ft wall with no windows or doors in our living room and even though we put satin paint on it we can't see a single seem. From what I've seen not every company/individual can pull something like that off.

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Old 04-07-2008, 07:12 PM   #32
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..... If you are still balking at high costs it may be worth asking around about helping with the job.
Honestly, the majority of contractors, let alone drywallers, will refuse such an offer. The biggest problem being liability issues.

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....Also ask about things such as if they will move/cover your furniture, if they clean everything up, and if they dry or wet sand.
Most will, again, refuse to do so.
We will do so, but at an extra charge. We will do a "general Cleaning", but since we are a "construction company" (and not a cleaning company) - that cleaning is limited. We offer detailed cleaning, at an extra charge.

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Originally Posted by tomatolater View Post
..... We lucked out with a great drywaller who taught us a lot and did some exceptional work.
Yes you did. You found one in a million.

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Originally Posted by tomatolater View Post
..... We have a 20ft wall with no windows or doors in our living room and even though we put satin paint on it we can't see a single seem. From what I've seen not every company/individual can pull something like that off.
Problem is that there are alot of people in the industry that will do drywall for 6 months to a year, and go out and start advertising that they are a drywall contractor. The thing is, it takes years, and years of practice, mistakes, and understanding of the trade, to be able to do it properly and consistently smooth and "seamless" (hanging and taping). If anyone hires a drywall contractor, the first thing to look into is: How long they have been in the trade. Personally, I think it takes at least 5 years fulltime to be skilled, 10 years to be a pro/expert at every phase, and to know how to deal with every issue/situation, that may arise.

Example: We hired a young kid about 5 years ago, as a sheetrock hanger. He was, and still is, the most phenominal hanger, I , or anyone else has ever seen. When he is done, the seams are so tight, you couldn't fit a dime between them. It's so perfect, that it looks like a machine put it up. Once, he and 3 workers hung 42 sheets in a basement remodel in 2 hours. The problem was, that when he came to us, he'd only been doing new construction for 3 years fulltime. We stuck him in some remodeling jobs in older homes (off square, bowed ceilings, off-plumb walls, etc)... and he was lost.
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Old 04-07-2008, 07:18 PM   #33
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Cost to Drywall hang/finish...please read, good explanation


Firehawk, keep this in mind too. It's not just the quality fo the drywall hanging, but more importantly its the quality of the mud/tape. IF it looks bad, it will ALWAYS look bad. You will start noticing the spots that arent so great, and EVERYTIME you walk by you will stare at them!!!

When my brother in law was building his house, he went with the lowest bidder without even balking. Tuened out HORRIBLE!! MY father in law went with a more expensive company, and the results are outstanding. The guy my brother in law was fully insured, great references, etc. Just giving an example of the difference in quality...


Look at it this way. Would you take your kids to a certain doctor just because he was a bit cheaper than everyone else?
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Old 04-07-2008, 07:30 PM   #34
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Firehawk, keep this in mind too. It's not just the quality fo the drywall hanging, but more importantly its the quality of the mud/tape. IF it looks bad, it will ALWAYS look bad. You will start noticing the spots that arent so great, and EVERYTIME you walk by you will stare at them!!!

When my brother in law was building his house, he went with the lowest bidder without even balking. Tuened out HORRIBLE!! MY father in law went with a more expensive company, and the results are outstanding. The guy my brother in law was fully insured, great references, etc. Just giving an example of the difference in quality...


Look at it this way. Would you take your kids to a certain doctor just because he was a bit cheaper than everyone else?
No but then again I have insurance for that .

I hear what you are saying. My buddy told me " well, if they don't do a great job on a couple areas, we can always fix it" since he's an experienced builder himself. So I'm sorta covered anyways. But I mean, yeah, I know what you are saying. The nice thing is I do not have to pay the last half of what I owe until I inspect everything and am 100% happy with it. I guess that is the ace in the hole...so to speak.
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Old 04-30-2008, 06:50 PM   #35
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As a self employed drywall hanger/finisher (yes guys, we are still out there) I personally run a crew of 2. Myself and my apprentice. As the other gentlemen mentioned that some drywall hangers work alone is assinine. You will be retired with a bad back before you are actually retirement age. I use myself and one other guy, and we hang up to 16 foot sheets of 5/8" with just a little sweat. (Granted he more so than I but I have been doing it a while).

i wanted to make a point on the pricing. The gentleman that had quoted you $1500 could possibly have a house payment due, could be flat broke and needing work etc.....dont just trust your gut, ask him for references and for pictures. A website address would be great too. Even though my website only had my email address and company logo on it, at least I have gotten it that far. The guys that are quoting you in the higher price range could very possibly be quoting at that because a.) they want YOU to make them competitive (I recently lost a bit of $2000 for a basement to a guy that quoted $1400. He offers a 1 year warranty I offer 5-oh and not to mention, I have repaired his work on 3 other jobs) b.) they are too busy to say "hey, I dont want this job-it is a basement afterall" c.) The big dogs can charge what they want, a lot of rock hangers and finishers are known within the community. or d.) hes just plain nuts

The fella that had mentioned to ask about insurance, license, etc.. is absolutely right. If they are not insured absolutely DO NOT HIRE THEM. If they fall guess who pays for it. If they hurt their back, guess who pays for it, if they cut their finger off, guess who pays for it? YOU yep thats right.

Anyhow, in response to your pricing questions, in my area, I actually charge in the ball park of $1.35-$1.50 psf to hang and finish. This includes my pricing for labor AND materials....the materials I use are a bit higher quality, but people know that and again I offer a higher warranty than the other guys. I may have a small company compared to my competition, but I am halfway decently respected because I am not afraid to bid against them and get in there.

If someone mentions that my price doesnt fit into their budget, it is absolutely not set in stone. I have a lowest possible price that I will work for and a cap on the most I will charge. I absolutely do NOT charge George Jetson any different than George Jefferson tho.

That being said, your supply house in the area may charge a delivery fee, also if you purchase the materials at Home Depot or Lowes, be prepaired to pay a delivery fee as well, but also around $3.00 a sheet for them to haul it to your basement. Or you could go the cheapskate rout and deliver it yourself. And lug ALLLLLLLLLLL that board with your drinking buddies.

The choice is up to you. My suggestion however is this. If you do decide to hang the drywall yourself and decide to hire in someone to finish, dont be surprised at the cost of their finishing. Finishers hate finishing other peoples hangs. I hang my board because I know how I am going to finish it.

Thanks and if you need anything else, let me know.

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Old 04-30-2008, 08:01 PM   #36
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Cost to Drywall hang/finish...please read, good explanation


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Originally Posted by ebbtideinteriors View Post
....the materials I use are a bit higher quality,....
I've got to ask this question:

What .....sheetrock, joint compound, paper-tape, corner bead, hot mud, or screws, is it, that you use......which you consider better (higher quality) than others?
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Old 04-30-2008, 08:13 PM   #37
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Cost to Drywall hang/finish...please read, good explanation


You have received alot of good advice so far. So I will just give you some food for thought. "The bitterness of a poor job, far outlast's the sweetness of a cheap price!"

Good Luck! And may the "best " drywall guy get the job.
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Old 04-30-2008, 09:11 PM   #38
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Well I may eat a little crow, but here's what happened:

I went with the guy I planned to go with. The contract was for drywall hang and finish walls/ceiling, prime 1 coat, (I paint), then they install padding/carpet. 2900. The carpet was berber. The square footage of the drywall hung was ~1600 sq foot including ceiling. I think ti was more like 1700-1750 with soffits, etc. Now keep in mind, I know some things about drywall, but I'm no pro and I only know what I know from asking around and looking it up online.

Anyways, They told me 2 weeks to complete the project. I am in week 6 now and they never finished. Here's the story:

Day 1 and 2 they had a crew of 3 guys hanging. They didn't get it done. In fact, they got the ceiling about 3/4 hung in 2 9-hour days. They then began to go to 4-5 hour days and it took nearly 2 weeks to complete just hanging the drywall. The mudder started in there around that time and he was going around mudding seams while another guy was installing corner bead (taking forever as well, and some of it was crooked, in fact 2 of the corners I made them redo completely).
My staircase runs along the basement block wall so I only have the 1 1/2 inches of space to work with so I decided to liquid nail some furring strips to hang drywall on along that wall. Well these guys hung 1/2 drywall there with 1 5/8" screws, pulled some of the studs away from the wall, and wondered why my wall was bowing. They told me they didn't hit the concrete wall LOL, but when you do the math, 5/8 furring + 1/2 drywall is 1 1/8". You're way too long with your screws. SO anyways I have a little bulge from where the strip came off the wall and they filled back there again with a ton of glue. I can live with that I guess, if it bothers me i'll redo it eventually.

The mud guy was coming at 4pm and working until 8pm everyday, and was on time for the first few days, then began arriving 1-2 hours late, and one day never even showed. I called owner b*tching and they were apologetic of course. The mudder had an attitude. I questioned why one of the vertical corner beads was rounded on the edge (literally, very badly, no way you could mud and make that look good which I told him) and he argued with me and told me to let him work on it with mud and it'd look ok. So a week and a half goes by and it still looks like sh*t. I had the owner out, told him i wanted it torn out and redone. THEN it looked good after a straight piece was put in.

There are two bulges at seams in 2 locations in the walls. They blamed my stud job but because I am so maticulous, there's no way my studding was that far out that either they couldn't mud it enough to make the bulge disappear, or couldn't hang the drywall well enough to not show a bulge. I think they improperly butted the seam there, but what do I know? The cuts around the electrical outlets were way too big and I was argued with about that. I have standard outlet boxes installed in there and I showed them a standard wall plate and how much there is a hole around not being covered up. They said "oh you wouldn't be able to use this size plate anyways". I said "HuH? How did builders do it upstairs then because that's the same crap i have up there?"

So this went on for 5 weeks until they FINALLY wrapped it up. When their primer came in, he sprayed over my recessed light bulbs and electrical plugs, cable lines, phone jacks, etc. F'n ridiculous. When i brought up how that happened, they said "well normally there's nothing in the outlets when we prime". I said "you couldn't cut a piece of cardboard and block it when you were spraying? Give me a break".

I have this all documented in email as well. The carpet was the final straw. So early week 5, the carpet guys come out and they tack strip/pad the basement. One of the fellows goes and gets the carpet that I wanted. They get the WRONG carpet. And it's not their fault, it's the owner's fault. She gave them the wrong carpet, yet argued with me for 10 minutes on the phone that that's what I wanted. There's no way I woulda picked that carpet as I have 2 black labs and wouldn't pick something that'd show dog hair. At any rate, she said she'd get me the right carpet. Well all week goes by, hear nothing. Monday rolls around and I email them. They email me this long apologetic letter and give me the choice to opt out of the contract and not pay any more than I paid up front (which I paid half).

So essentially I got the drywall hung/mudded, primed, padding and tack strips for 1450 bucks. And they had to lose a ton of money on my job as they were 1 hour or so away from me, so all that gas over 5 weeks time adds up.

So now I bought my own carpet and am having an installer with 44 years experience and highly recommended to come in and put it in this weekend so I can get my trim hung.

So I know some of you tried to tell me not to take a lower bid (keep in mind I talked this guy down, he wasn't the lowest to start...he was close to the average). I wonder if I would have had the same problems with someone even if i paid double. It's hard to find good help out there.

So here's all of the flaws that I can count

Before painting:
2 bulges in the walls not TOO terrible, but I know they are there and it bugs me.
Outlet holes were cut too big, they mudded the holes up but I may still have to use jumbo size plates which I don't think look the best and i'm a little pissed about
I haev to clean the coax cables that have spray paint on them, and replace some bulbs (or take a razor blade to them)
I had to pull out all my electrical plugs (19 of them) and replace them
Corner bead is decent, but not real sharp like I'd expect a professional can do.
A couple screw holes were completely missed.
They didn't leave a gap in the drywall at the floor. This pissed me off as I requested this before they even installed the drywall, and it wasn't done. So I made them go around the bottom and cut a gap out. Who installs drywall with no gap at the floor, especially on concrete?
When they were done mudding, they cleaned the floor with compound all over it by bringing a hose down there and spraying it (mud dissolves in water). I was not home when they did this, but I came home at 10:30pm that night only to find puddles everywhere and since one of the walls I put up is over a dip in the floor, there was a big puddle with the drywall soaking right in it. I got on the phone screaming pissed about that. THIS IS WHY YOU DONT DRYWALL ALL THE WAY TO THE FLOOR. They also managed to get some water on the priming by the stairs which caused the primer to bubble up, so that was redone.

After painting:
2 seams are showing after semi gloss has been applied. Seams are in ceiling and really only noticeable at an angle when light reflects off them. I didn't see them prior to painting.

So there's some flaws with the drywall, and i'm hoping I wont notice after all my stuff is moved down there. It bugs me, but if I am still bothered by it in a year, I'll redo the flawed areas.

When my new carpet installer came to look at the basement, he goes, "nice padding down and they did a good job installing the tack strips, but they did a terrible job on the padding installation". LOL. Well at least that can be fixed right now. he said had they laid the carpet, the seam woudl have separated in a short time. I would have been PISSED at that point.

So anyways, I was able to get all of my work done for 1450 + 372 bucks carpet installation + 750 for the carpet material. I'm still coming out ahead of what I was going to spend at 2900, with better carpet and a carpet installer that knows WTF he's doing.

To sum it up, this is why I would have rather done the job myself. I think even though I'm new, I would not have given up until it looked great, whether I had to buy some beer for my knowledgable buddies to help me, or read up on it, or just practice until I got it to look right. I kept my patience until about week 4, and then started raising hell about what was taking so damn long. The first couple weeks I even provided lunch on most of the days for them, like pizza, sloppy joes, burgers, etc to keep them happy and to hopefully do a better job. I can't imagine many residents do this for their contractors.

They ended up firing their mud guy because he refused to touch his work up, saying I was being too picky, when it was the owner that came out and circled the flaws around the basement. I asked him what kind of finisher doesn't pay attention to details? He laughed at me, and that's when I told him to just go and I'd call the boss. The owner and sales lady were very friendly and tried to please me, but I just don't think they possess the skills to do jobs properly. I feel funny saying that because who am I? I haven't been building homes or something, but the fundamentals about hanging drywall that you can read about or ask people about, they didn't know.

I do have a question for all those drywallers out there. What is considered a great job? Would a great drywall job be perfectly straight cornerbead, zero nicks in the drywall, everything perfectly straight? Or what? Where is the line between being maticulous and being obsessive?

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Old 05-01-2008, 01:36 AM   #39
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Cost to Drywall hang/finish...please read, good explanation


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Originally Posted by AtlanticWBConst. View Post
I've got to ask this question:

What .....sheetrock, joint compound, paper-tape, corner bead, hot mud, or screws, is it, that you use......which you consider better (higher quality) than others?
Well first let me start out by saying this:
drywall=paperless or 1/2-5/8" usg board
compound-I dont EVER water down my compound unless I am using my auto taper-most finishers I have met along the way water their compound down. It reduces the overall integrity of the compound.
I dont use mesh EVER unless it is a hole that I am patching, or a severe gap in which I use 20 min durabond
I use quality employees whom which use grabber brand screws. Sometimes I nail the perimiter, but typically it is screws.
I use Mid Flex in all of my inside corners.
I ABSOLUTELY DO NOT USE ANYTHING OTHER THAN DURABOND TO INSTALL MY BEAD!!! Meaning no nails, no screws which results in no call backs from buckles, rust etc....and I specifically use vinyl unless metal is necessity (i wrap doorways for closets with aluminum and plant shelves, but knee walls, window surrounds etc...I only use vinyl)
I use the nocoat brand flexible corners for any radius that I install. I never cut the no coat to make the angle.
I use Columbia tapers.
I use gold bond paper tape.
I only use usg compound-I hate the lite blue
I use specifically Tuff Tex texture, I dont like to texture with compound, there is a reason it is compound.

I am not boasting nor bragging, nor am I attempting to compare myself with others, I use the midflex instead of no-coat and I use wide flex as well. There is also more narrow products.

EVERYONE uses no coat, but I have found expecially recently, that when I use the mid flex instead of the no coat, I have no tape pulls. If you are unsure of what the "flex" line is, straight line has a great website, they will show you there. I like the paper edge and you still only need to skim it just like no coat, but it takes less compound to install.

I use durabond for my 1st 2 coats of screw fills. I alway do 3 coats on screws, I bed, skim all of my joints as well. 3 coats is my method on that as well.

I know there are a lot of methods, but I am a student of the old school. I use marshalltown comfort grip blusteel knives, I use cobalt serrated drywall blades. I have marshalltown skywalker 2 stilts.

Not that any of this has to do with what the gentleman has posted, but around here most of the people use the thin paper tapes, or mesh, they thin their compounds, they use compound to spray their textures and they use either aluminum bead for radius or they use the metal "curveflex".

Thanks for the inquiry, if you would like to inquire more about my stuff, let me know, I will gladly give you my email address.
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Old 05-01-2008, 01:49 AM   #40
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A great job is something that the homeowner can sit back and look at, and say "wow that looks great" You can always tell a hanger/finisher that takes great pride in their work, when they ask the homeowners input on the project. The true tale of the tape comes when the paint is on the wall. In my technique painting I have learned that a poor hang leads to a poor finish leads to a poor faux. I never ask for final pay until the customer has given their consent. I think that most drywallers will agree that if the drywall doesnt tell the story of whats behind it, then it is a good job. Nicks are common in drywall, but not until after the drywaller has been long gone. Meaning from the dog, or moving furniture etc. Also you should never see your seams nor should you ever see screw heads.

A great job is when it doesnt matter what type of paint you put on the wall, whether it be satin, semi or high gloss, a suede or a glaze, it looks good no matter what. The primer can tell the whole story. I like to prime my jobs myself that way if there are any imperfections, I can touch them up right away and thus reducing call backs. However, there is an occasion when something gets overlooked, but you should never feel guilty about calling on something that is obvious. Never "settle" always get what you expect. Call me stupid or whatever, but as the saying goes "if mama ain't happy, ain't no one happy"

Oh and another quick tip, you say that your ceiling seams are noticeable when the light hits it just right-and that you have semi gloss on your ceiling, heres a tip, either paint the ceiling with a flat white paint, or take some trisodium phosphate <sp?> and wash the ceiling down. Flat paint is what I typically recommend for ceilings because there is less glare expecially in poker/entertainment rooms





I do have a question for all those drywallers out there. What is considered a great job? Would a great drywall job be perfectly straight cornerbead, zero nicks in the drywall, everything perfectly straight? Or what? Where is the line between being maticulous and being obsessive?[/quote]
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Old 05-01-2008, 07:21 AM   #41
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Firehawk, Sorry to say this, but you hired a bunch of hacks. It does not take the length of time described to do a job like that. I know you realize that too. We would have that easily done in one week. The carpet in to 2 days. We would use all our own workers. Sorry to hear of your experience.
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Old 05-01-2008, 07:25 AM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ebbtideinteriors View Post
Well first let me start out by saying this:
drywall=paperless or 1/2-5/8" usg board
compound-I dont EVER water down my compound unless I am using my auto taper-most finishers I have met along the way water their compound down. It reduces the overall integrity of the compound.
I dont use mesh EVER unless it is a hole that I am patching, or a severe gap in which I use 20 min durabond
I use quality employees whom which use grabber brand screws. Sometimes I nail the perimiter, but typically it is screws.
I use Mid Flex in all of my inside corners.
I ABSOLUTELY DO NOT USE ANYTHING OTHER THAN DURABOND TO INSTALL MY BEAD!!! Meaning no nails, no screws which results in no call backs from buckles, rust etc....and I specifically use vinyl unless metal is necessity (i wrap doorways for closets with aluminum and plant shelves, but knee walls, window surrounds etc...I only use vinyl)
I use the nocoat brand flexible corners for any radius that I install. I never cut the no coat to make the angle.
I use Columbia tapers.
I use gold bond paper tape.
I only use usg compound-I hate the lite blue
I use specifically Tuff Tex texture, I dont like to texture with compound, there is a reason it is compound.

I am not boasting nor bragging, nor am I attempting to compare myself with others, I use the midflex instead of no-coat and I use wide flex as well. There is also more narrow products.

EVERYONE uses no coat, but I have found expecially recently, that when I use the mid flex instead of the no coat, I have no tape pulls. If you are unsure of what the "flex" line is, straight line has a great website, they will show you there. I like the paper edge and you still only need to skim it just like no coat, but it takes less compound to install.

I use durabond for my 1st 2 coats of screw fills. I alway do 3 coats on screws, I bed, skim all of my joints as well. 3 coats is my method on that as well.

I know there are a lot of methods, but I am a student of the old school. I use marshalltown comfort grip blusteel knives, I use cobalt serrated drywall blades. I have marshalltown skywalker 2 stilts.

Not that any of this has to do with what the gentleman has posted, but around here most of the people use the thin paper tapes, or mesh, they thin their compounds, they use compound to spray their textures and they use either aluminum bead for radius or they use the metal "curveflex".

Thanks for the inquiry, if you would like to inquire more about my stuff, let me know, I will gladly give you my email address.
FWIW: We do everything you describe, and use all the materials you listed. We've never viewed it as using "higher quality" materials, we've always just viewed it as: using the "right materials", and, doing the job the "right way" to create the "best finish".

I am not saying that your viewpoint is wrong or incorrect. It's just different to me.
I've been in the construction industry all my life, and also in the Drywall business for 25 years. I've just never heard anyone describe it as using "higher quality" drywall materials. We usually view it, and describe it as, using the "right materials", or installing the materials that "should be used"...

(In the construction industry, higher quality materials are usually identified, labeled or have a definite distinction from others. Examples: #1 cedar shakes vs all other cedar shakes, select pine vs. knotted pine, red oak vs white oak, Windsor One vs other PP trim, ss nails over electro-galv, etc... In those cases, there are distinct, labeled, identified, and understood quality differences)

Personally, I still choose to view certain drywall materials as using the "right materials" for the "specific applications", to create the "best required finish".

Again, I am not saying you viewpoint is wrong. We are both saying the same thing, but we each label (view) it differently.

Cheers.
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Old 05-01-2008, 05:31 PM   #43
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Originally Posted by AtlanticWBConst. View Post
Firehawk, Sorry to say this, but you hired a bunch of hacks. It does not take the length of time described to do a job like that. I know you realize that too. We would have that easily done in one week. The carpet in to 2 days. We would use all our own workers. Sorry to hear of your experience.
My response is to your post below my last one.

If you rely on the average homeowner, who most likely is contracting it out becasue they know NOTHING about what you'll be doing, why would you rely on an untrained eye? I think the fact taht I know things is what sucks. It takes more to impress me than the average homeowner just paying to have something done they know nothing about. Follow me? For instance, my mother went down to the basement after it was painted and said "wow this looks excellent". I went down there and saw every flaw. Am I an expert at drywall? Definitely not, but I do know what I'm looking for. If i wanted a flawed job, I would have done the damn job myself. I hired 'professionals' expecting a professional job. At any rate, I made out because I had alot of work done for very very cheap, including free pad and tack strips installed. Can't argue with that really.

With that being said, yes I hired hacks. Yes there's a few seams. If it bothers me after my carpet is in, my pinball machines, pool table, computer, TV are down there, I'm redoing it myself. When i started complaining about the length of time to finish, they said "finishing drywall is one of the longest processes in new construction". Did I believe them? No. I have heard of people hiring good crews that can completely hang/drywall full size homes in 3-4 days. I had a fricken 760sqft basement to hang/finish. Come on.

The only thing that doesn't keep me from going out of my mind is this: Had I paid double that, I could have ended up with the same crap. Alot of times it doesn't matter what you pay. If you go with the cheapest bidder, yes your chances are higher of getting hacks, but just because someone wants to charge double or whatever doesn't mean the job will be done any better.

And with that being said, I digress. Good thing it's a basement is all I can say. I would have requested it to be completely redone had it been a living room or bedroom they did.

Last edited by Firehawk734; 05-01-2008 at 05:34 PM.
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Old 05-01-2008, 10:04 PM   #44
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Cost to Drywall hang/finish...please read, good explanation


Quote:
Originally Posted by AtlanticWBConst. View Post
FWIW: We do everything you describe, and use all the materials you listed. We've never viewed it as using "higher quality" materials, we've always just viewed it as: using the "right materials", and, doing the job the "right way" to create the "best finish".

I am not saying that your viewpoint is wrong or incorrect. It's just different to me.
I've been in the construction industry all my life, and also in the Drywall business for 25 years. I've just never heard anyone describe it as using "higher quality" drywall materials. We usually view it, and describe it as, using the "right materials", or installing the materials that "should be used"...

(In the construction industry, higher quality materials are usually identified, labeled or have a definite distinction from others. Examples: #1 cedar shakes vs all other cedar shakes, select pine vs. knotted pine, red oak vs white oak, Windsor One vs other PP trim, ss nails over electro-galv, etc... In those cases, there are distinct, labeled, identified, and understood quality differences)

Personally, I still choose to view certain drywall materials as using the "right materials" for the "specific applications", to create the "best required finish".

Again, I am not saying you viewpoint is wrong. We are both saying the same thing, but we each label (view) it differently.

Cheers.
i totally understand where you are coming from. I am not sure where you are located, and the materials I purchase are from the supply house as with you, however, if you purchase a box of usg at a supply house, it is not the same as you would get at home depot. many would argue this, however, I know the retail side of drywall and building materials as well as the labor/install and sales side of it. you do not get the same quality supplies that you would from a supply house-typically. try a little test sometime. purchase a box from hd and a box from your supply house (or bucket whichever you prefer) and drop them for your finishers, i will almost guarantee that your mud will yellow from hd or will off color as it dries. they use different components in their product-expecially in taping compound. you will also get more air pocks in the hd mud. otherwise i am just crazy and i dont know what i am talking about.

also to reiterate the difference in my opinion in "quality" i dont feel that the lite blue brand of compound is a good brand at all, yet i see a lot of finishers use it in their tapers, i just have had bad experiences with it. anyway, i am glad that i am not crazy and most drywallers share the same opinions that i do on the materials. do you guys use the mid flex? i am the only one in kalamazoo to use it. everyone else still uses no coat. this is coming straight from the manager at my supply house.
thanks again
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Old 05-01-2008, 10:48 PM   #45
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Cost to Drywall hang/finish...please read, good explanation


I am currently doing 2 bathroom remodels in the same house. The first drywall company charged me 650 bucks to hang and finish an 8x10 bathroom(I didn't shop price but was giving a new and young company a chance). After they were done I paid another guy 90 bucks to do another coat to try to fix it. After that I sanded it and did one more coat myself.
It still has issues which I can't really correct.(I spent hours shimming the framing perfect at critical areas, but they still have humps and curves in them)


On the next bathroom which is about the same size I am happily paying $1150 to a guy whose work I have seen and it is top notch.

You get what you pay for.

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