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-   -   Which comes first...door or tile? (http://www.diychatroom.com/f15/comes-first-door-tile-17224/)

gone_fishing 02-17-2008 06:09 PM

Which comes first...door or tile?
 
I am framing out a new wall to separate my heater from my laundry room. Do I install door frame for a bi fold before or after the tile is installed? I also have to install a new door for between my bathroom and laundry room. I will be tiling into both rooms with the same tile.

AtlanticWBConst. 02-17-2008 06:17 PM

You can do either/or.

Personally, I find it easier to install the tile first, then come back and install the entire door set up together (Jambs, casing, bi-fold doors, mounting brackets/hardware, etc).

LakeTahoeDan 02-17-2008 08:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gone_fishing (Post 98733)
I am framing out a new wall to separate my heater from my laundry room. Do I install door frame for a bi fold before or after the tile is installed? I also have to install a new door for between my bathroom and laundry room. I will be tiling into both rooms with the same tile.

I always install hardy backer first then doors, then tile. Most prehung doors are made to accommodate the clearance needed for door swing over tile/carpet etc.

Most importantly, if you need to shim one jam leg up off the floor to make the head level then the gap is covered by mortar and tile.

You get a much cleaner look this way. After tile come back and trim/case the doors.

AtlanticWBConst. 02-17-2008 09:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LakeTahoeDan (Post 98781)
...Most prehung doors are made to accommodate the clearance needed for door swing over tile/carpet etc.

Most importantly, if you need to shim one jam leg up off the floor to make the head level then the gap is covered by mortar and tile.

You get a much cleaner look this way. After tile come back and trim/case the doors.

I thought that the OP stated that they are installing a bi-fold foor arrangement, not a pre-hung set?

gone_fishing 02-17-2008 09:07 PM

I will be hanging two pre hungs and a bi fold.

AtlanticWBConst. 02-17-2008 09:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gone_fishing (Post 98803)
I will be hanging two pre hungs and a bi fold.

In that case, the advice given about installing the pre-hungs before tile is good. If you install your jambs and casings for your bi-folds first, then make sure that you allow for the height of the bi fold door panels, the upper glide track, all the pivot-hardware of the door, and also the "L" shaped lower pivot-bracket's height.

Good Luck.

LakeTahoeDan 02-17-2008 09:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AtlanticWBConst. (Post 98814)
In that case, the advice given about installing the pre-hungs before tile is good. If you install your jambs and casings for your bi-folds first, then make sure that you allow for the height of the bi fold door panels, the upper glide track, all the pivot-hardware of the door, and also the "L" shaped lower pivot-bracket's height.

Good Luck.

It sure does suck having to cut a new door doesn't it!

new signature idea: "always know your elevations" (especially when cutting in stairs)

The prefhung 6pnl pine and alder doors I install regularly are ~1" short of the bottom's of the jamb legs. So this is usually more than enough clearance for mortar and tile.
I suppose if timing is not right I just shim off the subfloor accordingly and then cut the hardy backer around the jams.

here is a recent double pocket I did:
http://img184.imageshack.us/img184/1...0034ec7.th.jpg

http://img221.imageshack.us/img221/2...0141sa5.th.jpg

hammer 02-18-2008 12:43 AM

I would install the hardibacker , then the pre-hungs, then the tile and then go back and install the bi-fold

troubleseeker 02-18-2008 06:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LakeTahoeDan (Post 98781)
Most importantly, if you need to shim one jam leg up off the floor to make the head level then the gap is covered by mortar and tile.

A gap for this should not even come into play IMO, because the jambs should be undercut so that the tile will slip under them. Nothing screams "did not know how to do it" project more to me than grout lines around door jambs resulting from trying to cut the tile around all the offsets. :mad:

LakeTahoeDan 02-18-2008 07:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by troubleseeker (Post 99096)
A gap for this should not even come into play IMO, because the jambs should be undercut so that the tile will slip under them. Nothing screams "did not know how to do it" project more to me than grout lines around door jambs resulting from trying to cut the tile around all the offsets. :mad:


that looks like crap having imperfect surfaced tile pushed up under a perfectly cut jamb leg. Might work for porcelain tiles etc but not for ceramic tiles with rough textures.

I do all stain grade and putty, bondo and paint is not an option

AtlanticWBConst. 02-18-2008 07:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LakeTahoeDan (Post 99102)
....I do all stain grade and putty, bondo and paint is not an option

...Even when the job calls for painted Trim? That's a waste of money on stain grade stock...

LakeTahoeDan 02-18-2008 07:19 PM

I have never had a job that called for painted trim it is all stains, sand sealers etc.

If I did have I paint grade job I would not be using VG Firs, Knotty Alder etc.

gone_fishing 02-18-2008 08:22 PM

No hardie backer either...this is on concrete.

AtlanticWBConst. 02-18-2008 08:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LakeTahoeDan (Post 99108)
I have never had a job that called for painted trim it is all stains, sand sealers etc.

If I did have I paint grade job I would not be using VG Firs, Knotty Alder etc.

If we have alot of standard paint-grade fabrication, I prefer to use Windsor One for stock, and premium paint-grade trim.

Flipper 02-09-2009 10:07 AM

Door Jamb or tile??
 
I too have the same question, which comes first door jamb or tile??:confused1:


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