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-   -   Changing an exterior/patio door (http://www.diychatroom.com/f15/changing-exterior-patio-door-65049/)

burnt03 02-22-2010 12:03 AM

Changing an exterior/patio door
 
This is the door from the master bedroom out to the deck.

http://i986.photobucket.com/albums/a...g?t=1266814756

It's old and doesn't quite fit in the frame (Was fine when it was warm but tried to open it mid-winter and it was stuck pretty good, way out at the top. Cracked the drywall a bit inside when I had to beat it back into place). Plus, it almost looks like the PO took the door, cut a hole in it and installed the glass in after the fact.

So, I'm starting to look for something new. Not enough room to install sliding glass door, would like to stick with a door that's the same size (32" wide) with glass built in to let in more light. I was looking on the various big-box websites and can't really see anything that would work.... any suggestions?

Thanks in advance

Dairylander 02-22-2010 05:18 AM

If the door itself is 32", meaning a 34" rough opening, then you're golden. Every store in town will have that in stock.
If your R.O. is 32", meaning a 30" door, they should have that too, but maybe not in the glass style you want. Add 10-20% more $ for a special order.
If you're sure you want to commit to this project, pull off the interior trim and measure from stud to stud to double check your R.O.

Thurman 02-22-2010 08:13 AM

Appears to be a standard 15-lite door from the pic. What's that hanging down on the LH top? Wood, Fiberglass. or Metal-clad? IF the door, the door frame. nor the area under the threshold show any wood degradation (rot), why replace the unit? Unless you want a new unit. Weather always is a factor with doors fitting into frames the door fit into well just six months ago. May I suggest spending time to determine if the door frame is 1) Plumb-on the hinge side, 2) are the hinge screws in tight? 3) Is at least one screw in each hinge long enough to go into the framing studs, this keeps a properly installed door secured to the framing. 4) Is the top and bottom of the door frame square to the hinge side? 5) Check the diagonal measurements of the frame--they should be very close. You may have to remove the interior trim to make some adjustments to save this door. David

burnt03 02-22-2010 09:15 AM

Thanks for the replies!

I'll definitely make those checks first and see if it's something that can be repaired instead of replaced.

Dairylander 02-22-2010 11:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Thurman (Post 404006)
What's that hanging down on the LH top?

If that's the rod to a mini-blind, you can get doors now with the mini-blinds between the panes of glass.
It's a relatively cheap add-on and they stay clean and don't bang around.
And if that's your bedroom, then you'll appreciate the ability to darken the place on weekend mornings.

troubleseeker 02-22-2010 11:48 AM

Looks like a pretty standard unit. You should be able to get replacements everywhere. Looking at it's exposure in the photo, I'd suggest a fiberglass unit over wood or metal. The glass was not a ho project as you suspect, but it is pretty much done at the factory as you describe. Generic slab door blanks, and they just cut out the hole for whatever glass configuration they need. It is just a two part plastic frame sandwiched together and held with the screws you see in the frame. The units come with little plastic plugs to fit in the screw holes, but they obviously did not get installed.
Look at a few possible sources of supply to see better looking frames. That same ugly , bulky unit is still used by some, but there are brands that have improved the appearance a bit. Stick with an outswinging unit as you have, and be sure it has a "jamb up" type sill (can't see what you have) where the door actually closes against the sill weatherstripping, not just slides on top of the sill, and depends on the fins of the vinyl door bottom for weatherproofing. There is a wide range of lite configurations available.

Ron6519 02-23-2010 10:16 AM

When you order the replacement door, tell them it opens out so you get the correct threshold slope. It wouldn't surprise me if this door was installed backwards in the opening.
Ron

troubleseeker 02-23-2010 08:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ron6519 (Post 404666)
When you order the replacement door, tell them it opens out so you get the correct threshold slope. It wouldn't surprise me if this door was installed backwards in the opening.
Ron

The door blank appears to be hung correct side in, because the visible plugs on the window frame are on the inside, but what appears to be an applied door stop kind of gives it away as a job site made frame. It would have a rabbited jamb if it was a factory unit. Owner will certainly appreciate the huge difference in air tightness that a nicely weatherstripped factory unit will provide.

burnt03 03-07-2010 04:57 PM

Another related question....

Have another door out to the deck, steel door with no windows/lites, looking to replace with a door with a vent window.

Looking at Home Depot, found a door 32x80 by 4 (and a bit) inches wide. My old door looks to be 6 (and a bit, sorry about these, don't have the measurements in front of me) inches wide.

They didn't have anything of that width at HD, do they just make the 4.xx wide doors and I have to cut some flat stock to push the trim out or should I be looking for the 6.xx" width?

Thanks from a green green rook

Ron6519 03-07-2010 06:05 PM

You have a few options to extend the jamb.
1. Order the jamb size you need when you order the door.
2. Buy a jamb extender.
3. Make your own.
Ron

Dairylander 03-07-2010 07:58 PM

Pre-hung door jambs are typically made for either 2x4 construction or 2x6 construction.
Since you are self-proclaimed green guy, you'll save yourself hours by just ordering.


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