Go Back   DIY Chatroom Home Improvement Forum > Home Improvement > Remodeling

CLICK HERE AND JOIN OUR COMMUNITY TODAY...IT'S FREE!

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 10-16-2007, 03:15 PM   #1
Newbie
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 16
Share |
Default

Cast-iron tub -- reglaze or replace?


The 1930 porcelain-enameled cast iron alcove tub in my bathroom is in good shape, except for two things: (1) an etched, discolored 'acid reflux ring' around the drain; (2) plating on the metal drain and overflow cover is scratched and worn off.

I thought about replacing it, but the length is 64". Searching on the internet, I can't find any 64" alcove tubs, only 60-inch ones. So replacement may not be an option.

Am I stuck with getting this tub professionally reglazed on site, despite the limited life of that process? If so, would I be able to get the metal hardware replated to look decent (or find replacement pieces)? Thanks.

slapdash is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-16-2007, 04:14 PM   #2
Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Long Island, NY
Posts: 9,519
Default

Cast-iron tub -- reglaze or replace?


The tubs are actually 66". Kohler and American Standard make them, probably others. To replace the tub you will need to tear out some wall tile and lose some floor tile. Some of these old mud jobs are so brittle that tiles from above the area you're working on will fall out along with the concrete bisquits they're attached to. Plus, you need to find tiles you can use to fill in.
Ron

Ron6519 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-16-2007, 09:22 PM   #3
Newbie
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 16
Default

Cast-iron tub -- reglaze or replace?


Bingo! Thanks, Ron. Yeah, I couldn't see the 2 inches that are covered up by the tile. Found the spec sheet on the Kohler 66" model.

You are absolutely right about the brittle mud job. Part of it has already failed, so I'm going to end up taking out the wall tile and starting from scratch. If the old tub is ever coming out, now is the time.

Is it realistic to think that a 400-lb new cast iron tub can be maneuvered upstairs stood on its end, and through the 2-ft bathroom door into the 5'-6" x 8'-0" bathroom? Once it's in there, I can't visualize how it's going to be rotated into its final position. The bathroom walls (minus tile) are the same width as the alcove, 66 inches. Any diagonal position of the tub (while turning it) is going to exceed 66 inches.

There is a 38" W x 52" H double-hung exterior window. So the tub could come in through the window on a boom, already turned to the correct orientation to slide into the alcove. I guess that's the way to go ... the dealer should be able to help with installation?
slapdash is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-16-2007, 10:31 PM   #4
Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Long Island, NY
Posts: 9,519
Default

Cast-iron tub -- reglaze or replace?


Yes, those cast iron tubs are fun! They come in sort of a skimpy crate. A hand truck into the house can work. Three guys can get it up the stairs and into the bath. Get it as close as you can to it's final position and uncrate it. You can put some 1/4" masonite , 3-4" wide at the two ends and slide it in. Or you can raise it up on the drainside and put it in at an angle, parallel to the back wall and lower it down when you get close. The open wall will allow you to do this.
I don't think it will be 400 lbs. I put a cast iron Kohler corner tub in at my brother's and that weighed 386.
Around here you can offer the driver $20.00 and he'll help you even if the company says sidewalk delivery only. These guys do this all day long and know how to handle these. But better to have muscle available just in case.
Ron
Ron6519 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-17-2007, 08:15 AM   #5
Newbie
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 16
Default

Cast-iron tub -- reglaze or replace?


That will be great if it can be done that way, Ron.

Walk me through this if you would, I'm a little slow. Let's say the tub is lying on its long side, apron facing skyward, and we bring it through the door parallel to the 8-ft wall. Now we need to turn it 90 degrees, to be parallel to the 5.5-ft wall. But just before it gets to parallel position, there's a 68-inch diagonal across the apron that doesn't want to fit between stud faces spaced at 66 inches. And the 16-inch height of the apron won't go between adjacent studs.

Now if it's resting on a short end, with the drain end pointing skyward, I can visualize rotating the drain end downward toward the floor as you described (with the tub already oriented parallel to the 5.5-ft wall). In that case, only the lower corner of the apron (at the drain end) has to swing inside the stud faces as it comes down. But we'll have to support it on the two feet at the opposite end, right? Otherwise, the lower corner of the apron could break off if it bears the tub weight instead of the foot?
slapdash is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-17-2007, 08:18 AM   #6
Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Downeast Maine
Posts: 999
Default

Cast-iron tub -- reglaze or replace?


I did it the second way you described. I think I rotated it on the apron corner. That stuff is pretty thick cast iron (just try breaking one with a sledge!)

NateHanson is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Cast Iron Baseboard Installation Bob G. HVAC 7 09-15-2009 08:22 AM
Old cast iron sink weighs a ton ex-Khobar Andy Plumbing 7 08-29-2007 03:15 PM
Current trends: Cast Iron or Stainless Steel sink? Fat b Remodeling 4 05-04-2007 07:09 PM
Old cast iron pipes heather92 Plumbing 2 04-10-2007 08:36 AM




Top of Page | View New Posts

Copyright © 2003-2014 Escalate Media. All Rights Reserved.