Cabinet Screws. What & Where ? - Remodeling - Page 2 - DIY Chatroom Home Improvement Forum

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Old 10-19-2013, 08:50 AM   #16
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Originally Posted by oh'mike View Post
have a bunch of battery drills--so I do not need to change bits--just change drills----
Amen to this idea. I also have a couple of different cordless drivers. It's great to just switch between them for the different bits rather than changing them all the time.


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Old 10-20-2013, 09:36 AM   #17
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i started drilling for the face screws. i was pretty worried about doing this, for obvious reasons. but, as it is turning out, this is the easy part. lining up the cabinets is the pita part.
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Old 10-20-2013, 05:48 PM   #18
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Remove the doors--and clamp them---use wood hand screws if you have them---

Any clamps set will work,but protecting the finished surfaces is tough with smaller clamps.
New members: Adding your location to your profile helps in many ways.--M--
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Old 10-21-2013, 09:06 AM   #19
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Originally Posted by md2lgyk View Post
The screws that came with my cabinets are 2-1/2 inches, but there's nothing wrong with using 3-inch ones. As for attaching the face frames, I use construction screws (look like drywall screws but are stronger). I predrill, and also countersink - there's a special bit for that. I usually use three screws, one in the center and one each near the top and bottom. I am not a pro, so someone who is may correct me, but it's what I've always done. And be sure to clamp the cabinets together so they stay lined up while your're drilling and screwing.
in my case, my 3 1/8" screws would not be good for the faces. as they would come out the other side.

next time, try the screws i have. they are freaking awesome. no fancy drill bits needs. and they countersink themselves with no issues. not only that, they are nice looking screws. though they wouldn't match well with lighter cabinets.
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Old 10-22-2013, 08:05 AM   #20
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What kind of wood is the face made of?

I installed hickory faced cabinets. I predrilled, counter sunk, the whole nine yards. Hickory is super hard. I still ended up twisting off the head of one wood screw. As luck would have it, I need to replace all the pipes in my 40 year old townhouse due to pinhole leaks that are a community wide problem I only discovered a couple years after installing the cabinets. In order to replace the pipes in my kitchen, I have to remove a cabinet. Wouldn't ya know it's the one with the stripped off screw head. I've tried a grabbit screw extractor with little luck because the screw head twisted off deep inside the cabinet face. If I could travel back in time I would forget about standard wood screws and go with high torque deck screws of appropriate length. No one sees those screws anyway and a stripped screw head is a royal PIA if you ever find the need to remove a cabinet without destroying it. If your cabinet faces are hickory, or even oak, pre-drill and use something like a drop or so of lemon or linseed oil on the screw when installing to prevent stripping the head and consider using torque screw instead of wood screws. I'm not a pro, so maybe one will way in if I'm steering you wrong.
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Old 12-12-2013, 09:33 AM   #21
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Lot's of carpenter banter going on here...

1.) Good choice going with a good screw, GRKs are THE best.
2.) Always choose screw length based on real info...find out what you have to go through to hit "meat"
3.) Clamp the face frames together. Make sure they are flush. Predrill w/ a countersink. Fasten with appropriate length screw.

Good Luck!

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