The last link has 1-1/2" length between each "cross-beams" where fire can travel to the walls. Check this from another moderator; second pic in post 12, post 22; How to fireblock framing
2. Need canned foam/caulking under
foam panel (imperative to air seal), glue pattern behind
it is also very important; http://joneakes.com/jons-fixit-database/743
2-1/2. Add foamboard to top edge of concrete wall (all surfaces of the concrete "sponge"; http://www.buildingscience.com/docum...ce-insulation/
3. Add a sill sealer under all bottom plates for an air/thermal/capillary break, whether a poly plastic is under the slab or not; http://www.greenbuildingadvisor.com/...-building-code
3-1/2. ADA the drywall to stop air from getting to the cavity insulation/concrete wall though pin-holes you may have missed to condense basement moisture on the wood framing if the foamboard isn't thick enough or holes in foam seal, or around electrical boxes
4. Use nailers along running joists every 2', not 3'
on center per drywall manufacturer if the next joist is farther than 7" from wall. Never nail through
a chord of an engineered joist, always toe-nail blocking to the chord, risk splitting the 1-1/2" ones. I posted that in this forum some time ago, no search tonight. I was nice; double-up on some and counted funny, they must feel bad enough...
P.S. Don't forget your basement egress windows per code to keep everyone safe.