Best Way To Attach Countertops to Bases?

GearHd6

I've got the laminate countertops with the 3/4" particle board backing. I'm unsure on how to attach these types of countertops to me bases. Do I screw up from the bottom with the correct length screws so they dont pop through the top? Any help is appreciated. Thanks

Big Bob

yes, a few is all you need.

RippySkippy

you can also use a few dabs of silicone on top of the cabinets in addition to the screws. Particle board doesn't hold screws well...but then again, you don't have a lot of forces at work here.

If I can suggest something....before you install, flip the counter over and paint the bottom with oil based paint, anywhere there will be moisture, or the possibility of moisture, i.e. along the front edge, around the sink cutout, above the DW (front especially if it has a power vent), and any miter. If you can slow up the water absorption you'll be more likely to slow the swelling of the particle board....it's not a matter of if it will swell when it get's wet...it's when. Once it swells, it becomes rough, and small pieces will come off.

GearHd6

Thats a great idea. I will do that for sure. I didnt want to do laminate for reasons like that but the $4000+ for anything you'd REALLY want was out of the question right now. We've got a few hundred into the laminate so if it lasts us 5 years or so we'll be happy. Thanks

Ron6519

I would suggest painting the flakeboard exposed from the overhang on the counters, especially around the sink, dishwasher and any other areas that will be subjected to water dripping off the counter. The water will get the unpainted flakeboard wet and damage the counter due to expansion through absorption.
Ron

GearHd6

Can I paint the very ends of the countertop where the iron on end caps go or will the end caps not stick then? Thanks.

Big Bob

Sounds like store bought post formed tops.... use contact cement don't iron on end caps. Good advise above on sealing water prone underside areas.. if you have a mitered corner .. it is very hard to cement ..if you have a good adhesive caulk (phenoseal or =) that is color matched.. use that on the miter and tighten with proper clamps.

Good luck.

RippySkippy

I would not paint where the caps go, iron on or glue on. I personally like the glue on better. And as Big Bob says, use a good adhesive caulk on the miters, it replaces the need to paint.

Do you have to work with any miters? Or, are you lucky enough to have straight runs?

GearHd6

Well im the unlucky one that has an L shaped kitchen so i've got mitres. They already dont seem to fit together correctly, it seems like the molded backsplash isnt cut 90 degrees to the counter surface so the top tips of the backsplash touch together before the gap is closed up.

Ron6519

"Well im the unlucky one that has an L shaped kitchen so i've got mitres. They already dont seem to fit together correctly, it seems like the molded backsplash isnt cut 90 degrees to the counter surface so the top tips of the backsplash touch together before the gap is closed up."

Careful use of a belt sander should fix that.
Ron

GearHd6

What kind of blade should I used on my circular saw to cut this preformed laminate counter top? Do I cut it from the bottom? Thanks

RTRCon

Yep- Cut from the backside and from the self-edge back thru the backslash.

Big Bob

Might try shimming from the bottom at the miter Back splash corner. Sounds like your corner is down a tad. Also complete your miter before you install top.
Your walls will not be a perfect 90. ( you can cut into the wall or fill gap at top with caulk... play with it.

You can do it just take a little time... you will be glad you did.

Your 90 on the factory top should be dead on.
the less sanding and cutting on this the better for your seam fit.

GearHd6

Do I use I high tooth count blade in my circular saw? Like a 60 tooth or 80?