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Old 02-03-2013, 11:10 AM   #16
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The best enclosers are nailed to the studs with roofing nails and sheetrock is used above the enclosure.
The cheap thin ones get glued up over Green board. (moisture resistant drywall)
Both will need to be shimed to make up for the space lost space from removing the old tile and mud.
This is outstanding advice

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Old 02-03-2013, 01:24 PM   #17
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Well all the debris is cleaned up. Im not sure what to do next. The pieces of dry wall that went up against the tub and have rot on them also make up some of the main wall. Im not sure how much dry wall to remove.
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Old 02-03-2013, 03:09 PM   #18
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I have a question, why did this happen? Was the tile not installed properly or does this always happen over time?

Tile and grout are not water proof----some moisture can work its way through----

If the wall is made of plaster or gypsum board---it will get wet and eventually rot.

A modern shower/tub uses cement board and in an ideal situation--the board is also water proofed with a paint on water proofing ,like Red Guard or is covered with a surface membrane like Schluter Kerdi---

There are other materials available---but water proofing is key to building a wall that will last --

Also----bucket mastic must not be used---the new formulas will desolve and grow mold if wet---use powdered thinset only---
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Old 02-03-2013, 03:27 PM   #19
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Tile and grout are not water proof----some moisture can work its way through----

If the wall is made of plaster or gypsum board---it will get wet and eventually rot.

A modern shower/tub uses cement board and in an ideal situation--the board is also water proofed with a paint on water proofing ,like Red Guard or is covered with a surface membrane like Schluter Kerdi---

There are other materials available---but water proofing is key to building a wall that will last --

Also----bucket mastic must not be used---the new formulas will desolve and grow mold if wet---use powdered thinset only---
Well, this place was built in 82. I dont know how waterproof they were building showers back then. So it sounds like this was bound to happen?

Something else I just noticed. It looks like there would be no way in hell to get a new tub in there, the bathroom is too narrow. I know I can cut up the old tub but how am I going to get a new one in there?
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Old 02-03-2013, 06:36 PM   #20
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I have a question, why did this happen? Was the tile not installed properly or does this always happen over time?
I would say the wall got wet and the tiles didnt have anything to stick to.I would tear it all out including the tub hard to say how much more water damage there is.It makes no scense to fix the walls than a year later the tub falls thru the floor because its water damaged.
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Old 02-03-2013, 06:57 PM   #21
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I would say the wall got wet and the tiles didnt have anything to stick to.I would tear it all out including the tub hard to say how much more water damage there is.It makes no scense to fix the walls than a year later the tub falls thru the floor because its water damaged.
Ya, Im planning on replacing the tub and surround. Think Im going to go with acrylic tub and surround.
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Old 02-03-2013, 07:21 PM   #22
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That looks to be at least 40 or 50 years old.
Grout is not waterproof, what's the chances anyone ever living there ever took the time to seal the grout, or redid the caulking at the bottom of that tub?
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Old 02-03-2013, 07:30 PM   #23
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That looks to be at least 40 or 50 years old.
Grout is not waterproof, what's the chances anyone ever living there ever took the time to seal the grout, or redid the caulking at the bottom of that tub?
Oh Im sure that never happened. And someone caulked all over the place, Im guessing after everything was water damaged.
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Old 02-04-2013, 11:50 AM   #24
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a 5 foot tub can be put into a 5 foot opening---

If the drywall is removed the tub can be brought into the room on its end---then tipped on to the floor--the skirt will have to go into an open stud bay as it goes down---then slide the tub into place-

I've never failed ,even with a deep tub---so it can be done---how's your back?
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Old 02-04-2013, 06:19 PM   #25
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a 5 foot tub can be put into a 5 foot opening---

If the drywall is removed the tub can be brought into the room on its end---then tipped on to the floor--the skirt will have to go into an open stud bay as it goes down---then slide the tub into place-

I've never failed ,even with a deep tub---so it can be done---how's your back?
I went to Lowes sunday and was looking at the tubs, I asked the guy there and he gave me the same advice. So I guess thats what Im going to do. This weekend Im going to really have to figure out what dry wall needs to go. Im thinking a decent amount might come out. I found out that the wall behind the toilet doesnt seem to be attached on the bottom, so Im guessing I should probably tear that out.

Is there something other than drywall I can use for the walls? Something more water resistant?
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Old 02-11-2013, 11:09 AM   #26
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I went to Lowes sunday and was looking at the tubs, I asked the guy there and he gave me the same advice. So I guess thats what Im going to do. This weekend Im going to really have to figure out what dry wall needs to go. Im thinking a decent amount might come out. I found out that the wall behind the toilet doesnt seem to be attached on the bottom, so Im guessing I should probably tear that out.

Is there something other than drywall I can use for the walls? Something more water resistant?
What is your plan for the walls? Tile? If tile, you need to use either backerboard with proper waterproofing measures or drywall with kerdi. That is either poly behind the backer attached to the studs and overlapping the tile flange on the tub or backerboard without poly behind and some sort of waterproofing membrane on the front. Something like Redgard. Your other option is to put up drywall and then use kerdi to waterproof. Pros and cons to any of the options out there. Pick a plan and do it the right way. They all work if done properly. Done wrong, well, you see the results in your pictures.

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