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Old 07-16-2008, 10:20 AM   #16
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Not the greatest, but I have done it with floors, is to sister the existing studs with new studs, that are installed plub, such that they protrude past the original studs, into the tub area, such that the drywall would be in the correct position. This would be if your current studs are not plumb and would alleviate having to shim with different thicknesses.

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Old 07-20-2008, 08:55 AM   #17
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Use two layers of 1/2" drywall to make up the difference.

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Old 07-21-2008, 03:36 PM   #18
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OK, here's what I recommend:

#1. If you fir out the studs to accommodate the gap, you'll have to do all of the walls on both sides of the bath. If you fir just the walls inside the tub surround, you'll have an uneven surface between the tub and the rest of the room.
#2. If you plan on tiling the walls in the surround, you need to use cement backer board, not drywall. The material should be 1/2" thick.
#3. Here's what I propose that will allow you to keep the walls as is without firring out everything:
You say the gap is 1/2" total so you center the tub leaving 1/4" gap on both sides of the tub. You shim between the tub flange and the studs. Your wall material is 1/2" thick so you need to notch the bottom of the backer board just above the tub flange. This picture is not to scale but just to give you a visual of what I'm suggesting.

Does this make sense? Also, you never mentioned what the tub surround material is supposed to be? Fiberglass surround? Tile?
Angus, I have a similar problem in that my tub flange does not touch the wall studs. How should I go about notching the backerboard? Also, how would I install and secure the shim you are referring to in your pic if the tub is already installed? I have a cast iron tub.
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Old 07-22-2008, 07:44 AM   #19
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Angus, I have a similar problem in that my tub flange does not touch the wall studs. How should I go about notching the backerboard? Also, how would I install and secure the shim you are referring to in your pic if the tub is already installed? I have a cast iron tub.
If the tub is already installed, you don't need to shim. The original problem was a tub was being installed and the wall spacing was larger than the tub. That's what the shims would be for.
As for notching, what kind of backer are you using? What do you plan on doing as a wall covering?
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Old 07-22-2008, 08:11 AM   #20
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If the tub is already installed, you don't need to shim. The original problem was a tub was being installed and the wall spacing was larger than the tub. That's what the shims would be for.
As for notching, what kind of backer are you using? What do you plan on doing as a wall covering?
I'll be using cement backer board with tile as a wall covering with a coat of redguard in between.
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Old 07-23-2008, 09:50 AM   #21
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I'll be using cement backer board with tile as a wall covering with a coat of redguard in between.
Depending on what brand CBU you are using (I like Hardi), you can just use a utility knife to make the notch. Perfection is not needed for this. You're just making the CBU fits properly to the flange.

When using RedGard, it is critical that you get 100% coverage over the CBU. Pay close attention to your corners. You may need a few coats and watch out for any bubbles or pinholes.

Good luck!
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Old 07-23-2008, 09:55 AM   #22
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I am using Hardi for the backer board. How far down the flange does the backerboard need to go? the flange is only about an inch tall



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Old 07-23-2008, 10:12 AM   #23
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1/8" gap filled with 100% silicone.

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