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scyarch 10-26-2011 07:59 PM

Bathroom remodel- Tiling around the Shower question..
 
So.. we are completely redoing a bathroom rental unit of ours and have torn everything except the ceiling out down to the studs. Plumbing and everything has been redone. We just started to put up green board today and I read another post which actually got me to doubting my skills. I've done a lot of tiling before, however from what I gather... I've only ever put water retardant materials up, and no waterproof barriers. I've done several bathroom remodels and tile jobs around the tub/showers before, but I wanted to verify if the following is okay to do, or if there's something else that I should consider doing.

Studs have the green board go up all around (we're using 5/8"). Next I would use plastic or roofing felt around where the tiling will go, followed by hardibacker, with grouting the seams with alkali resistant tape and thinset. Following that, the tile goes on, then grouting, then sealing the grout.

Is there anything I'm missing... or will this generally be fine? From all the how to and videos and everything I've ever seen, heard or done, I think this is generally all that's needed (plus caulking and so forth, obviously) but I just was curious.

My father has owned these apartments for the last several decades and I'll be following suit and just want to know if I'll ever have to worry about the tile jobs in the future.. since from what I read, the only reason tiling should go bad is that the building shifts and cracks it. Not sure if location has an impact on installations, but I'm in West Los Angeles, so we don't get drastic temperature changes around here if that's a factor in anything.

(Q) 10-29-2011 10:40 PM

I think using something like RedGard is easier then to put up the felt. If you're using cement board - you dont put up any other wall behind it - no green board needed. If you were going to use the roofing stuff, you would put that behind the cement board. You're right about the thinset and tape

Ed911 10-30-2011 08:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by (Q) (Post 759869)
I think using something like RedGard is easier then to put up the felt. If you're using cement board - you dont put up any other wall behind it - no green board needed. If you were going to use the roofing stuff, you would put that behind the cement board. You're right about the thinset and tape

You might want to consider using Kerdi-Board with Kerdi-Band instead of concrete board. See the video below. Looks easy to work with and can be applied over studs.

Video here:

http://www.schluterkerdiboard.com/

PDF here:

http://www.schluterkerdiboard.com/me...D-Cutsheet.pdf

Comments from the forum pros...let us know what you think.

Hope this helps

Bud Cline 10-30-2011 11:37 AM

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scyarch 10-30-2011 11:39 AM

Thanks for the input so far, I'll look into those things. The issue is that we already installed all of the green board and it was 5/8" instead of the typical 1/2" hardi which normally goes up and it was done because it was an older bathroom/tub which was installed 50 or more years ago. We were keeping the tub, but the issue was that if I only used 1/2", even furred out to 5/8", that it would have maybe just barely extended beyond the lip of the tub on each side to the areas it should have been. The combo with drywall and cement board and tile brings it out just enough. We've done it this way before, but I was just curious about some sort of waterproofing which sounds like RedGuard is the thing to look at.

Bud Cline 10-30-2011 12:23 PM

Green board in a shower was in fact outlawed by building codes some years ago. In this case green board should be fine when installed as described with cement board on top of it but the cement board must be separated from the green board by roofing felt or poly. So far so good.

Now coating the cement board with Redgard would be a mistake in that it can cause moisture/condensation to develop within the wall. It may be wiser to forgo the roofing felt/poly concept and simply coat the cement board with Redgard. That would be my choice.:)

You don't "grout" the cement board seams. You would however use thinset on them along with alkali resistant tape. Allow the seams to dry and then coat everything with Redgard.:)

scyarch 10-30-2011 03:24 PM

Did I say grout the cement board seams? I know cement board is thinset + alkali tape.. >< Must have been tired. I had no idea that it was outlawed in building codes- thanks for the heads up. Is redguard obtainable from places like Home Depot or Lowe's?

(OHHH, I just reread it.. haha, grouting the seams. I meant filling in the seams of the cement board with the tape and thinset, as in you fill the seams or the lines between tiles with grout. I totally worded my original statement the wrong way :P)

Bud Cline 10-30-2011 03:35 PM

Redgard is available at Home Depot and maybe some Ace Hardware Stores.

There are other products the same as Redgard. Mapei has HPG and you can get it at Menard's. Laticrete has Hydroban and Floor and Wall Waterproofing and Product 9235, so if Lowe's sells Laticrete products you can get those products from them. Some will be special order. There are many of them on the market.

scyarch 10-30-2011 03:37 PM

I think I've heard of DalTile selling Laticrete so I'd be inclined to go with that brand, however I will definitely look into reviews on both. I'll also double check how far into the dry walling the shower went, on the off-chance that something could be salvaged if it's a huge deal breaker on a long lasting tile job. Thanks for the info!

(Q) 12-19-2011 11:04 AM

Just thought I'd mention that you should check that your walls are level and plumb before tiling, you're not going to be able to fix that after without destroying everything....


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