Go Back   DIY Chatroom Home Improvement Forum > Home Improvement > Remodeling

CLICK HERE AND JOIN OUR COMMUNITY TODAY...IT'S FREE!

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 01-05-2010, 11:42 AM   #1
Newbie
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 29
Share |
Default

Bathroom drywall question...


I know this question had been addressed a million times, but here it is again. My new shower surround has a nailing flange, to attach it directly to the studs. I'll be drywalling over that flange to butt right up against the surround. My shower is at one end of a rectangular bathroom, so it's not an alcove. The walls continue past the shower flange all the way across the bathroom, including a door on one side, and toilet/vanity on the other side. A few question:

1. What do I do with that tiny gap between the drywall and surround? Just caulk it after priming/painting is done? Or fill with mud and then prime and paint? Or...? If I just caulk it, obviously white caulk has to be used (not clear) so the crack isn't visible, right?

2. Where do I put the last screw on that edge up against the flange? I don't really want to screw through the edge of the drywall through the flange and then into the stud - I don't want to risk cracking that surround flange at all. Do I just make sure there is some blocking right next to the flange to screw drywall into, and leave the last 1.25" of the drywall without screws over the flange?

3. What about the front corner of the flange? That is, where the front vertical flange turns a corner at the top of the shower and becomes the top flange? The drywall "bulge" takes a turn there. To make it look as good as possible, should I make sure that I'm just using a single piece of drywall there, or is that vertical a good place for a butt seam?

Let me know what you think, especially if you have installed one of these before, or done drywall around one. Thanks!

StevePax is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-05-2010, 01:39 PM   #2
Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 951
Default

Bathroom drywall question...


Mud up to it.

pyper is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-05-2010, 06:41 PM   #3
PHB Construction LLC
 
Paulie's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Grand Rapids MI
Posts: 79
Default

Bathroom drywall question...


Mud up to it. Float all the way around with mud. Sand. Then run a bead of caulk between the surround and drywall. Make sure it's a high quality caulk that is paint able. I have used silicone once and the painters were PO'd.

A general rule of thumb is to use caulk between unlike surfaces.
Paulie is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-05-2010, 07:06 PM   #4
EverydayFaucets.com
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Columbia, SC
Posts: 2
Default

Bathroom drywall question...


Mud all the way around. Prime with oil and then caulk with a paint grade caulk.

Sam Johnson
EverydayFaucets.com
samj520 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-05-2010, 11:13 PM   #5
Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Seattle, Washington
Posts: 344
Default

Bathroom drywall question...


If you want it to look flat. Drywall up to the flange. Fill the space with 5 min mud and then flat tape it.
__________________
Work is for those who can not fish.
Mop in Hand is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-06-2010, 04:31 AM   #6
paper hanger and painter
 
chrisn's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Hagerstown MD
Posts: 6,649
Default

Bathroom drywall question...


Quote:
Originally Posted by Paulie View Post
Mud up to it. Float all the way around with mud. Sand. Then run a bead of caulk between the surround and drywall. Make sure it's a high quality caulk that is paint able. I have used silicone once and the painters were PO'd.

A general rule of thumb is to use caulk between unlike surfaces.

PO'd would be putting it mildly at best! Silicone chalk should be outlawed in the hands of most people, professionals and DIY alike.
chrisn is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 01-06-2010, 07:11 AM   #7
Newbie
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 29
Default

Bathroom drywall question...


Quote:
Originally Posted by Mop in Hand View Post
If you want it to look flat. Drywall up to the flange. Fill the space with 5 min mud and then flat tape it.

Has anyone ever actually done this? This would be a huge space to just fill with hot mud, right? I mean, the flange is 1 1/4", and it would be 3/8" deep to bring it out to the same level as the 1/2" drywall all around it. That's a lot of mud, and the flange itself doesn't give much to adhere to, since it's slick and smooth. Thoughts?
StevePax is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-07-2010, 10:55 PM   #8
Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Seattle, Washington
Posts: 344
Default

Bathroom drywall question...


Some how I get the impression you are not too thrilled with that idea. Another way to go is to shim out the walls with butt shims on the 2x's. This will also appear to be more flat. I would still flat tape it either way. I've done it both ways.
__________________
Work is for those who can not fish.
Mop in Hand is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-08-2010, 01:17 PM   #9
Member
 
firehawkmph's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Near Cleveland, Ohio
Posts: 1,572
Default

Bathroom drywall question...


This is the way the drywallers always did it when I was building houses. It's also the way I do it now on remodels. It's not a lot of mud. I use the twenty minute variety, which gives you about 5-8 minutes to install it before it starts setting up. I mix it a bit on the thicker side. When it's dry, it's solid as a rock. Don't use premixed joint compound for this.
I have also done what Mophand said below if it's not a big room. Rip some shimstock from 2 x's to match the thickness of the flange. Tack it up and drywall.
Mike Hawkins


Quote:
Originally Posted by StevePax View Post
Has anyone ever actually done this? This would be a huge space to just fill with hot mud, right? I mean, the flange is 1 1/4", and it would be 3/8" deep to bring it out to the same level as the 1/2" drywall all around it. That's a lot of mud, and the flange itself doesn't give much to adhere to, since it's slick and smooth. Thoughts?
firehawkmph is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-08-2010, 02:30 PM   #10
Drywall contractor
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Lilburn, GA
Posts: 2,094
Default

Bathroom drywall question...


1. Latex caulk.
2. I wouldn't recommend the quick-set mud/tape method for fill, personally. I'd shim the framing at the flange or just screw through the flange into the framing. Do it all the time and never had a crack. Pre-drill if you're worried about that....
3. Single piece if possible.

__________________
If you can read this, thank a teacher. If you can read this in English, thank a soldier. Support our troops.
bjbatlanta is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Can I install Kerdi over primed drywall in a basement bathroom? Mechelle Tiling, ceramics, marble 13 04-22-2012 10:50 AM
Bathroom tile question aumanpj Building & Construction 66 07-18-2009 11:43 AM
Replacing a few individual tiles in bathroom - chiseled a bit into the drywall Pickngrin Drywall & Plaster 4 12-28-2008 06:40 PM
drywalling bathroom / paperless drywall johnny331 Remodeling 7 10-17-2007 08:06 PM




Top of Page | View New Posts

Copyright © 2003-2014 Escalate Media. All Rights Reserved.