Bath layout

Squeakyhinge

I am looking for advice on
1) door placement(from family rm),
2) lavatory placement with "makeup counter",
3) size of tile shower.

I'm thinking of about a 4x4 shower, something slightly over minimum size.
I don't want to move the toilet drain. I'm wandering what these walk spaces will feel like. Maybe the lavatory should be tucked in the corner but I would really like some kind of "makeup station". Should the door swing toward the shower or the toilet? Would you have just a corner shower?, maybe with a rounded curb??

oh'mike

What sort of shower and what budget?

The square shape makes the space tight between the vanity and the corner of the shower---

I would suggest you consider clipping the outside corner of the shower with a 45* cut---

Budget will determine the design----and your skills---

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joecaption

Get rid of one of the doors and you could have a real bathroom with a sink.
Sure hope you have complete access above and below this bathrrom with all the fixtures all over the room.

Squeakyhinge

Thx. I am in the trades and believe I know enough to do a tile shower. I like the 45 idea. Weighed out fiberglass vs tile and would rather spend the extra time. Might have to shrink the counter, maybe a small L shape.

Squeakyhinge

Only plumbing roughed inand right wall in.

joecaption

Your have the swing on the door coming into the bath from the bedroom backwards.
Should be a right hand door.

DannyT

i agree with joe about a door. reverse the door from the family room and the toilet will be hidden with the door open.

Squeakyhinge

I thought maybe the door should open away from toilet for quick access but could see the other way would be nice for not making it a focal point when you walk into the room especially if someone is sitting there. Btw, it would be easier to lock/unlock the door from sitting position.

Squeakyhinge

I was thinking of a drywall ceiling. The floor is basement slab. I was thinking also of a drop ceiling since there will be a lot going on up there. Wouldnt the tracks and tiles get funky from two showers a day?? Maybe the shower supply should be on south wall(family room side).

oh'mike

How to build a shower - Building a shower pan with pre-sloped mortar bed, liner and curb.

There are three common ways to build a safe waterproof shower pan---

Mud bed with a liner---Pvc is used most often

Mud bed with a paint on surface membrane----Hydroban by Latacrete is a good coating.

Schluters shower system using one of their pre made pan and a surface membrane called Kerdi---

All three methods work well----

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Squeakyhinge

Two things are confusing.
One, the weep holes are hard to see, hence not sure what they are, and what they do or prevent.
Two, this is contradicting:
"The cement board has been installed leaving a gap between the bottom edge of the board and the liner. This will ensure there is no wicking of moisture up into the backer board."
After the second layer of mortar was layed, the photo of bed seems to actually be in contact with the cement board, allowing for moisture wicking.

Also, if building on basement slab, I'm guessing two layers are still necessary for creating a proper slope but not sure why slope can't be made with one layer. Also, if built on slab, can the wire mesh be mounted loose or should it be glued with dots of liquid nail or something...any tricks??

Squeakyhinge

Bump
Bump

oh'mike

Sorry, Nodded off--Egg Nog---

If you use the liner method shown in that link---the pre slope --first bed of mud --goes under the PVC liner to help drain the liner----the liner is clamped into the special drain --folded so no cuts exist below the water line ---then the Durroc is screwed in avoiding screws into the lower wet area--

the bottom of the board will be held in when the top layer of deck mud is packed into place---pebbles or a hand full of spacers are placed around the screw in part of the drain set--that;s were the weep holes are---then fat mud is used to form the curb---

With a Hydroban shower a different drain set is usually used---rock is installed---walls and curb---Tilers mesh is used at all seams--then taped lightly with thinset.

Then the deck mud is packed in----when the mud is set the entire shower walls and floor are coated with the Hydroban---two coats on the wall---four on the floor and bottom 6 inches of the walls.

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Squeakyhinge

Seams like less steps with PVC.
So the "weep holes" are basically the seam around the drain?
Hard to believe this would leak if the "sandwich", if you will, is sealed with some kind of sealant AND bolted together. I guess with constant water, pressure, and heat, this weep/slope with first mud coat is good insurance, if not an absolute requirement. Thanks for hearing me out.

Still wandering about the wicking up the rock board...is it ok on the PVC system?, for the rock to touch the bed?

Often wandered if there could be some kind of venting in the bottom corner to aid in evaporation, reducing mold growth. Always seams to grow in corners. Am I crazy?

oh'mike

I've built a lot of these showers ---Never had a problem---I've built a few Hydroban showers,too. They are faster to build---

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