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Old 11-12-2012, 10:12 PM   #16
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Basement wall framing.


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Originally Posted by mlijoi View Post
Ok, if I decide to stick frame, how do I get the same distance from the foundation on the top plate and the sill plate so that the studs are plum? I've always wondered that.

if you get the bottom plate pinned to the floor/foundation then you can use a level to plumb up a stud at each end of the wall to find the top plate.

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Old 11-12-2012, 10:20 PM   #17
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Basement wall framing.


Stick frame. You are in a basement, height will vary by an 1/8 plus from one to another easily. Building on the floor and standing up is a waste of time and doesn't work well. Unless of course you build it short and shim but that's a waste.
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Old 11-12-2012, 10:24 PM   #18
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Basement wall framing.


Ok I have no issues on having to stick frame, but i'm finding it difficult to figure out where to situate the top plate from the bottom plate so that studs will be plum.
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Old 11-12-2012, 10:25 PM   #19
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Basement wall framing.


Always best to build the wall a little shorter, a slab is never flat so the stud lenghts would all have to be all differant lenghts if you built it a tight fit.
Plumb is how straight a wall is standing up.
You snap a line on the floor to keep your bottom plate laying in a straight line, stand the wall up, check it with a level and nail in place and work your way down the wall shimming as you go.
Since your using the wrong lenght lumber it's going to be more complicated.
Take the measurement from the floor to the bottom of the floor joist in several places, take the shortest measurement and subtract 4-1/2 (the thickness of 3, 2 X 4's) plus whatever gap you want to leave at the top for shimming. That's what you need to use for a measurement for the top 2 X 4's.
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Old 11-13-2012, 09:37 AM   #20
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Basement wall framing.


Quote:
Originally Posted by mlijoi View Post
Ok I have no issues on having to stick frame, but i'm finding it difficult to figure out where to situate the top plate from the bottom plate so that studs will be plum.

one of the ways I've done it is to set the bottom plate and have it nailed down good with no movement and measure at each end of the bottom plate up to the floor joists where the top plate will go( rough guesstimate). For the measurement you get up to the floor joists- minus 1 1/2" and cut 2 studs that are that number. now toe nail those studs to the bottom plate good and if the bottom plate is pinned good the studs will stand on their own, now take the top plate and maneuver it in between the top of the studs and the bottom of the floor joists. the plate should be quite snug but still allow adjustment in the wall and you can use a level to make the wall plumb and accurate. once you find plumb with the level nail the top plate to the floor joists above... three studs might even work better for your situation, a stud at each end of wall and one stud in the middle or at the break in the top plate because your studs will not be long enough to make a continuous top plate. make the break for the top plate on a floor joists so that you can nail each plate where they split the floor joist.

to make your life much easier I recommend buying a treated bottom plate that goes down as one piece on the floor and the same with the top plate, buy a top plate that is long enough for the entire wall as well with no breaks in the pl;ates.

Last edited by hand drive; 11-13-2012 at 09:42 AM.
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Old 11-13-2012, 11:08 AM   #21
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Basement wall framing.


Building walls on the floor and standing them in fine. Just build about 1/4" shorter then your shortest measurement. Stand shim tight where you nail, making sure nothing sticks past the top plate.
Stick framing and measuring each piece is also ok in some areas. I have always built my interior walls actually about 1" short because I have lived in areas where the floors will heave a little. Then you do not shim tight, use large 4&1/2" nails and leave the gap, nails act as pins for the walls to move up and down on. This method is for a drop tile ceiling. For drywall ceiling use a treated bottom plate on the floor thne the 1" gap and then your regular wall. Drywall gets attached to the bottom plate on the wall, baseboard mainly to the treated bottom plate. This creates a slip joint.


In your case with 8' only lumber I would consider doubling the bottom plate and staggering the joint. May be way cheaper and lots easier to just buy the length of plates you need.
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Old 11-13-2012, 03:57 PM   #22
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Basement wall framing.


Thanks for all the info! Really informative!

To the last poster, mae-ling, about staggering and doubling bottom plates, I don't really understand. Would that be with built walls or stick framing. Can't picture it!
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Old 11-13-2012, 06:20 PM   #23
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Basement wall framing.


Your plates are too short at 8', to stiffen it double them up and stagger the joints. so 8' and 2' then 2' and 8'. Yep a waste of time and material. Better to get 10' plates.

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