Basement Renovation: To soffit or not to Soffit

ppeetteerr

I have two horizontal runs of piping (one 4" dryer exhaust and one 2" drain --only one pipe is behind the insulation at a time) just behind the insulation in the picture below. I originally framed the wall and anchored it so that there is about a 1 inch gap between the pipes and the wall. As the vertical distance between the wall and the ceiling is only 4.5" I had originally thought that I would hang drywall over the face and keep it flush. Is this an acceptable practice?

I could also use 2x2 strip along the top to give the drywall a little support at the top, or I could frame a soffit. Which will give me better results?

Thanks

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hammerlane

???????????????????????????????Do the 4" dryer exhaust and the 2" drain take turns by themselves magically or do you move them back and forth?????????????????????

Oh I may have just figured out you meant they never run parallel with each other??

joecaption

Seem to be missing fire blocking at the top of the wall.
Not sure how you plan on finishing the inside corner of the drywall at the top with it just floating in air like that.

ppeetteerr

So would a 2x2 attached to the ceiling provide enough support for the inside corner?

I used the great stuff fireproof insulating foam on the back side of the wall. On the top of the 4" pipe goes left and the 2" pipe goes right. I fireblocked between the two (less than 10' horizontal span)

I've also included a picture of what I'm talking about

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hand drive

the diagram in the middle is the one...

mae-ling

Yep the middle one, run drywall right past to the exterior concrete wall on the ceiling.
If clearenceis to tight for a 2x2 then you can get a metal L shape attach it to the ceiling and then your drywall to it.

GBrackins

maybe be I'm wrong, but wouldn't fire blocking be required in between the joist (since the pipe in directly under the joists) for the length of the wall, running from foundation wall out to new framed wall?

R302.11 Fireblocking. In combustible construction, fireblocking shall be provided to cut off all concealed draft openings (both vertical and horizontal) and to form an effective fire barrier between stories, and between a top story and the roof space.

Fireblocking shall be provided in wood-frame construction in the following locations:

1. In concealed spaces of stud walls and partitions, including furred spaces and parallel rows of studs or staggered studs, as follows:

1.1. Vertically at the ceiling and floor levels.

1.2. Horizontally at intervals not exceeding 10 feet (3048 mm).

2. At all interconnections between concealed vertical and horizontal spaces such as occur at soffits, drop ceilings and cove ceilings.

from 2009 International Residential Code.

__________________
Gary

"You get what you pay for, and sometimes free costs more!"

mae-ling

I think you are right and by running the drywall all the way out and to the concrete wall here you meet that need.
Maybe other places it does not.

GBrackins

I'm not sure by his sketch he can do that mae-ling, if so it will work ...... of course I am thinking the OP plans on installing drywall on the walls and the ceiling

__________________
Gary

"You get what you pay for, and sometimes free costs more!"