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Old 11-02-2006, 08:46 AM   #106
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I used to hang and finish drywall a few years ago and did it for about 7 years.

When hanging drywall cut all peices 1/4" short of actual measurement. If your house is old and crooked then measure at the top and bottom and make the sheet 1/4" shorter than shortest measurement.

Cut with a utility knife and then take a rasp like the one below and smooth the cut with it. It makes for a better fit and looks more professional.


When hanging walls always start with the wall oposite the door. Then hang both walls that attach to that one and hang the door wall last. The only exception to this rule is if you have an outside corner. If you do then hang so that the outside corner is the last two peices. The reason for this is it keeps you from having to tight fit peices. It allows you to cut and hang a piece 1/4" short and then the next peice covers up the gap, just be sure to place the next peice tight to the first. Also a 1/4" gap is nothing that can't be covered by drywall tape.

Hope this helps.

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Old 11-02-2006, 11:18 AM   #107
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Thanks BigDave... I am content with the circular saw cutting approach, although your cutting method probably be the widely used one... I will probably stick with the circular saw, well, until I see some bad things about it , may be...

I think your suggestion regarding "not perfect right angle" is kind of leave gap here or there as long as it is not more than 0.25 inch.... I will try that as well... although that mean I cannot use another toy "angle grinder"...

Thanks...
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Old 11-02-2006, 06:50 PM   #108
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I used to hang and finish drywall a few years ago and did it for about 7 years.

When hanging drywall cut all peices 1/4" short of actual measurement. If your house is old and crooked then measure at the top and bottom and make the sheet 1/4" shorter than shortest measurement.

Cut with a utility knife and then take a rasp like the one below and smooth the cut with it. It makes for a better fit and looks more professional.


When hanging walls always start with the wall oposite the door. Then hang both walls that attach to that one and hang the door wall last. The only exception to this rule is if you have an outside corner. If you do then hang so that the outside corner is the last two peices. The reason for this is it keeps you from having to tight fit peices. It allows you to cut and hang a piece 1/4" short and then the next peice covers up the gap, just be sure to place the next peice tight to the first. Also a 1/4" gap is nothing that can't be covered by drywall tape.

Hope this helps.
All good advice from a fellow old drywaller.....
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Old 11-02-2006, 06:53 PM   #109
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All good advice from a fellow old drywaller.....
I thought for sure someone would rape me for my advice and point out something wrong.
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Old 11-03-2006, 07:55 AM   #110
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is much better, together with an extra telescope support stand, I can mark and cut the recess light opening very nicely...

as the lift itself can only hold the drywall roughly to its position, to put the drywall to the exact position you need a telescope support stand or self made T-support, and do not use chalk to mark, use colorful paint, the chalk just don't attached when it is upside down... but paint work perfectly... now I probably use this method rather than spiral saw for recess light cutting as the result is so perfect with the help of a 5" hole saw....


I probably used the spiral saw for cutting electrical outlet only...well, may be I even use the stamp approach for that... as it is safer to do the cutting before hanging...

I do not have much luck with the drywall gun, I feel easier with my jobmate 18v screw driver.. with adjustable torque, I am able to put in the screws easier, the drywall gun is heavy, the adjustment is kind of no use.... you either not enough in, or break the paper, sometimes, it did it... but not all times...

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Old 11-03-2006, 06:55 PM   #111
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I do not have much luck with the drywall gun, I feel easier with my jobmate 18v screw driver.. with adjustable torque, I am able to put in the screws easier, the drywall gun is heavy, the adjustment is kind of no use.... you either not enough in, or break the paper, sometimes, it did it... but not all times...
I'm not surprised that you had a difficult time with the screw gun. Really, to properly learn how to use it, you need someone with you to actually show you how to hold the screwgun, how to adjust it, how to put the screws in, how much pressure to put on it, etc...
It is not easy to figure out by just reading about it....

Whenever we would show a new guy how to use a screw gun...the first day was like listening to someone grinding their finger nails on a chaulk board.....
Big Dave, I'm sure will know exactly what the sound of a new "screw gun operator" sounds like....ouch, my ears....
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Old 11-03-2006, 06:57 PM   #112
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I'm not surprised that you had a difficult time with the screw gun. Really, to properly learn how to use it, you need someone with you to actually show you how to hold the screwgun, how to adjust it, how to put the screws in, how much pressure to put on it, etc...
It is not easy to figure out by just reading about it....

Whenever we would show a new guy how to use a screw gun...the first day was like listening to someone grinding their finger nails on a chaulk board.....
Big Dave, I'm sure will know exactly what the sound of a new "screw gun operator" sounds like....ouch, my ears....
Yeah.....We would always give them the wore out gun to practice with.
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Old 11-06-2006, 07:54 AM   #113
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Hi AtlanticWBConst and BigDave, you probably right on the screw gun is not a "by default" easy to use tool... but don't blame the book... I in fact thought it is so easy to use and didn't read anything about how to use it... may be I should download some manual or stuff to try to see if I can learn somthing out of it on how to operate.... well... except, the 18V screwdriver seems quite sufficient for my needs... we DIYers besides rely on reading materials, is hard to find opportunities with hand-on teaching personnels... not that I disagree with you that hand-on teaching is valuable... it just not easy to have such for a busy life of everyone...
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Old 11-06-2006, 09:38 AM   #114
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I finally find a use of the cheap rotary tool... it is quite good at triming... when you cut a piece which is a bit too big to fit into place... this cheap rotary tool is very good at triming it, it is not powerful enough for cutting through drywall, but triming is very good, just adaquet power. just slide the drywall bit from left to right along the edge, the drywall edge can be trim nicely... a lot of dust though... so far I have not use any cutter to cut drywall... only circular saw, hole saw, and this triming tool... it works well...
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Old 11-06-2006, 04:04 PM   #115
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You know what they say.....If it aint broke don't fix it. Keep up the good work.
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Old 11-07-2006, 08:33 AM   #116
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I have two hand saws, one with the pointy end with bigger teeth which can be used for initial rough opening... I have another hand saw which is used to cut ABS plumbing pipe also which have a more fine teeth... I find these two hand saws are very handy for drywall cutting.... if you want to have a feel of what you are cutting as circular saw you cannot has as much feel when cutting through opening like window...Also, circular saw cannot cut the end of a 90 degree corner easily, you either over/under cut it... a plumbing hand saw in this case is perfect... I used them today because my circular saw batteries went out and discovered that they are not that bad...

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Old 11-07-2006, 08:50 AM   #117
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I'm not sure why you are cutting the drywall with a circular saw, but these inexpensive tools are the best things to cut and trim drywall.

Rasp, Drywall saw and Utility knife

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Old 11-07-2006, 08:58 AM   #118
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circular saw have the edge cut so smooth... I tried other ways.. I happened to have a back and decker 3 inch versapak saw... that tool is so good and smooth... also very fast, no need to put the drywall on top of somewhere to snap ..etc. I in fact draw/cut many times when the drywall still on the lift... if you look at the edge of the unbutted seam on top and bottom, that is result from a circular saw is similar to that type of cut from the manufacturer... the saw in your picture is one of the hand saw I have... it is good for some type of cut, but it has too big a teeth for other finer cut sometimes you want... for that.. I use ABS pipe saw and it is very nice... The RASP in your picture probably be the tool I am missing.. but I would think it is used to smooth out the rough cut from the traditional method... but I am thinking... wouldn't it be better if you can have a smooth cut right from start....

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Old 11-07-2006, 10:10 AM   #119
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this morning I put up a ceiling forget to measure the window opening at the end... before.. when I have this situation... I kind of using a spiral saw to cut through to locate the edge... this morning I tried a different approach... use a stud finder... well ... it did the job ... the good thing about this approach is you can avoid all dust cloud from the spirtual saw on top of your head... my experience say spiral saw is ok if it is below your eye level... but when it is above... it is messy...
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Old 11-09-2006, 08:31 AM   #120
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can you do that with a cutter?


not much else to update...

in theory, it can even cut thinner, say half an inch... if you need to...

has to use the thin blade like the 3" black and decker cordless saw...

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