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Old 04-27-2006, 01:53 PM   #61
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Basement Renovation Question


Today I went to HD, I saw marble tile only $2.79 per sq ft. I bought 75 of them hoping to do the bathroom tiling as my next task. somthing suddenly terrible happen in my mind: How should I tile the floor portion underneath the shower pan? I just realize when I cut the drain, I didn't consider the thickness of the tiles... that means if I tile the shower pan flooring, the drain pipe will be cut too short and there may be problem when connect the drain hole ...

If I don't tile the shower pan portion, I am sure everyone agrees it would be ugly....

Please what is the best step to take now to face this challenge... I don't know if there is plumbing hardware allow you to extend a pipe by half an inch to one inch.... please advice...

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Old 04-28-2006, 12:24 PM   #62
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Basement Renovation Question


I went home but the inspector already gone. My wife said the inspector just give 3 words: "Everything is OK". He also said need to re-inspect before putting on drywalls for insulation...

Well, all I feel is the inspection is really a much smaller thing than most people thought. My wife said the inspector only stay for about 2 minutes...

Anyhow... I will start setting up electrical... and need to call for electrical inspection... don't know when... my wife is more ease with me now regarding the timing. She said it is not in a hurry no more... I myself like to get it done sooner but with the babies around... it is not easy...
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Old 04-28-2006, 03:55 PM   #63
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After further investigation over the internet, I discovered I can cut curve even on marble, with techniques outline in this page:
http://www.pavingexpert.com/cut_in02.htm
therefore, I think I will try to do that, if it doesn't work, I will then build a perform surrounding the pan...
Anyone has experience cutting curve on Marble, the above document basically teach how to do so with circular small wet saw... I wonder anyone tried that here and if it works well...
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Old 05-08-2006, 03:58 PM   #64
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Basement Renovation Question


I have intalled 6 can lights so far, each can light take approx half an hour to one hour to install including everything... It is pretty straight forward. The concern is really buying the right light to start with... the key is the height, I got a 5" can which just have the height barely fit my situation.... anything more will not fit... the width does not fit our joists space at all, but this can be fix by using blocking and which I did, our joist space is too small to fit in those sliding frames...

Anyhow, it is a fun installation, just if I have more time to do the job....
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Old 05-12-2006, 03:05 PM   #65
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Basement Renovation Question


I wish I had made the decision to use wood studs earlier, now when I doing the wiring, try to attach a electrical box to steel stud is a pain. I know you can buy those specialize electrical box for steel stud... but I happen to win a large lot of regular electrical boxes from Ebay, why pay premium for those specialize stuff, I hate these steel studs, its not being rigid gives me headache, I have to go back to wood to put it around the box together with the steel stud... Gee, the only advantage of steel stud I can see is its being guarantee to be straight, but if you don't mind spending time investigating every single wood stud in the lumber store, don't buy steel studs...
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Old 05-16-2006, 09:11 AM   #66
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Basement Renovation Question


During wiring when testing a light circuit and connecting last can light, I made the wrong connection at the regular socket plug. the lighting circuit I am testing hot wire connect to neutral and vise versa... Thanks to this small testing tool. I was able to detect this, otherwise, I could have got shock... because the light did turn off, but the hot wire still have current if you make the mistake as I did... To do electric work, you definitely need this testing tool for safty purpose... The one I bought is like a small screw driver which when you touch the metal part, it shows you whether there is voltage and how much... it is great handy tool... The wiring is really easy thing, for industry charging $100 per can, you can save a log for DIY, well, it is easy for new construction, I am not sure about remodeling as I never try it, working behind a drywall may be a different story ...

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Old 05-16-2006, 09:17 PM   #67
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If you have insulation in the areas where you installed the can/recessed lighting, make sure you use insulated cans....
Alot of people have insulation in between the floors for 'sound insulation', But often use un-insulated cans.....
The miss-match always results in a 'flunk' on the electrical inspection.
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Old 05-17-2006, 09:41 AM   #68
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Thank you for the advice for insulated/uninsulated cans, I didn't use insulation on the ceiling of the basement, so this should not be an issue... The area I am a little bit concern about inspection is really the number of can lights they allow me to tire to one home run, the way I am doing now, it could easily reach 20 cans per home run. But if I do the math, assume 60 W (max) per can, 20 cans only 1200 W which should be OK for a 15 A wire, but don't know if the inspector will be picky etc... and I am using those energy saving 15W bulb anyway... Any advice/experience on this are appreciated.

My other experience is that, I found out planning on paper only help a bit, I found most effective way to do the cans layout is by actually looking at the ceiling and found the most convenient spot for installation as well as trying out after setting up one set control by one switch to see if enough lighting result, I am adding 3 more lights from my original plan because of this exerise, I really didn't have a detail plan except a rought plan and think about it in details while it goes, I think this is kind of Just in Time Planning... I know many people disagree with this approach saying everything should be on paper first... but I did find out for wiring this just in time type work better for me... I did try draw a few circuts on paper before but didn't find those too useful ...

And this is not related to lighting, but I want to bring it up for major renovation, those metal storage box with rolling wheels and many drawers is a pain saver. I finally got one from Walmart last weekend when they are selling it for only $69 CAD. After using it for a couple of days, man, this thing is one of the preferred to have stuff, now I can find the bits,screw drivers...etc. so much easier and the tool box move to where I am working... If only WalMart have put this stuff on sale last winter...

Another complain to the steel studs stuff, yes, they predrill holes for you on the studs, so that you can put wire through them without drilling, but man, you need to put in those specialize plastic circles on the holes to avoid the wire being cut by the steel... but do you know how much they charge for those plastic circles... it is unreasonably high, a handful of those you need to pay 10, 20 dollars... man, they try to eat you when you do not know... I hate to see people doing business like that... not that I cannot afford 10,20 dollars... for xyz sake, this is plastic... I intend to use wood pieces and drill hole through them... I know, this mean I need to do more work than regular wood, that is exactly why I hate steel studs so much.

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Old 05-24-2006, 02:45 PM   #69
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I have to use one of the existing switch location for the going down to basement light, change it to 3 ways switch controling different set of lights so that it can turn on/off upstairs as well as downstair. My question is: when I disassemble the switch, what do I do with these hot wires? What I intend to do is pigtail them and include them into the electrical box connect to nothing. Although I prefer to just pigtail them and let them outside the electrical box, because the electrical box is already very crowded having a 14/3 and 14/2 wires input, may be I can use a bigger electrical box to accomodate this.

Is this arrangement ok or there is somthing I need to do or code forbidden doing this etc... anyone knows?
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Old 06-19-2006, 10:31 AM   #70
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Basement Renovation Question


Hi Everyone,

I removed all the half-wall insulation from the builder and framing for the basement I am building, I do not know the cost of buying new insulation and wonder should I kept the old insulation I removed from the builder, I kept them in a number of garbage bags now, but do not know if this is really necessary. Can someone tell me if those insulation generally reusable, or it does not make much sense to reuse them because of either insulation is so cheap that do not bother, or reusing them is too difficult because they no longer easily cut and paste onto the framing member nice and clean..

If the answer is no, I should not reuse them, I would rather dump those 10 or 20's big garbage bags away earlier rather than later...

Please advice

(For someone who interested in knowing, my current status for this long going project is still electrical wiring. I am currently wiring for the bathroom, I have finished the recreation area and downstair entrance area, me and my wife have accept the reality that this project's deadline would be year 2007 rather than year 2006)

Thank You
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Old 06-20-2006, 11:15 AM   #71
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Basement Renovation Question


I sent an email to Canadian Code Authority in Toronto region, got answer back, share with you here in case you want to know, see below questions and reply (read from bottom up):



1. If the bathroom circuit includes lighting outlets, then the maximum rating of the circuit is 15 amps.
2. Lighting and receptacle outlets in a bathroom can be on the same circuit.
3. The code requires that receptacles in a bathroom be GFCI protected. The code does not require the lighting outlets or the exhaust fan to be GFCI protected.
Ontario Electrical Safety Code Rules 26-700, 30-104.
Code Specialist
Electrical Safety Authority
ESA encourages the use of Licensed Electrical Contractors.
All electrical work requires a Certificate of Inspection from the Electrical Safety Authority.
-----Original Message-----
From:
Sent: Wednesday, June 14, 2006 4:33 PM
Subject: ESA email contact form

I am doing wiring on my basement. Few questions related to bathroom wiring:
1:
Do I need to use 20A circuit for the basement bathroom circuit? or 15A is fine as long as it is not overloaded.
2:
Dose receptacle and lights on the bathroom must be on two separate circuits?
3:
Does everything in the bathroom including lights/fan/receptacle have to be GFCI protected?


Thanks.
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Old 06-21-2006, 09:39 AM   #72
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Basement Renovation Question


After going through a few electrical box installation, here is some experience I can share:

- do not fix the electrical device box in position before making the connection, this is recommended from the book, but I find it not the best, instead, make the connection first and do all wiring then attach the electrical box to the studs, I do need to install one or two horizontal beams between the two studs in order to do that though, but I think this is easier than try to do things when the electrical box are fix in place, especially those electrical box close to the floor, bending down is a pain... well at least this is my opinion, may be some expert out there will give a different opinion.

- connect the first ground wire hook around the device box screw first before bringing in other wires.

- cut wires to shorter/convenient lengths before pigtailing them instead of pigtailing them then force the excess wires to fit into the box.

That's about the experience I gain for electrical box connection.
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Old 07-26-2006, 10:35 AM   #73
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Basement Renovation Question


I find out cutting 1.25 inches of 2x4 stud and use it for fitting wire through the metal stud is perfect, no need to screw the wood onto the steel studs as the wood can hold itself up, all you need is to drill a hole on the center of the piece. This is much better than buying those adaptor they are selling expensively in HD...

I also find out attached device box to studs first sometimes has its advantageous and I am doing so for the receptacles outlets. idea sometimes changed....

I also find out there is a deadline on the permit... but talking with the department people, they extend my deadline to next year... So if you have a permit and DIY, please remember to check the expiry date,it is not indefinite...

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Old 07-28-2006, 10:04 AM   #74
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I am wiring receptacles on my basement, would like to ask these two questions:
1. is there a height restriction on the receptacle above the floor. I set them up a bit higher than regular ones: the length of a hammer, there is no violation to code for that, right?
2. running the wire across the studs, is there a code restriction such as the wire must be at least 1 feet above the receptacles etc.? If there is such restrictions, are they the same for both wood studs and steel studs? or there is no restriction at all..


1. The Ontario Electrical Safety Code does not contain rules that specify the mounting height of receptacles and switches.
Common trade practice is to mount receptacles at 300 mm (12") to the bottom of the outlet above the floor and switches at 1.2 m (48") to the bottom of the outlet above the floor, however these heights are not mandatory.
2. The Ontario Electrical Safety Code does not contain rules that specify the height of cables that are installed through wall studs.

ESA encourages the use of Licensed Electrical Contractors.
All electrical work requires a Certificate of Inspection from the Electrical Safety Authority.
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Old 08-03-2006, 04:25 PM   #75
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I didn't and I am now working into difficulty. The 100A panel is really crowdy and I saw my neighbour who has upgraded to 200A is so much roomy and he can do a lot of stuff.. I know I can add sub-panel... but it is a big headache... I still trying to fit into the one or two empty slots hoping the inspector won't say anything about it....

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