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Old 02-15-2006, 04:42 PM   #31
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Basement Renovation Question


Hey kui****g,

where are you from?

you have so many questions that my head is spinning.:confused:

The best advice that I think that I can give you is to approach one question at a time. then I would suggest going to a local home improvement store and picking up a book that best suits your questions. in this case, you might need a few of them.

Then after a little bit of research, you can come back with more specific questions, and i'll do my best to give you some friendly advice.:D

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Old 02-16-2006, 09:51 AM   #32
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Hi ACE Installer,

You are right, I have too many questions, and many of those previous questions are already obsolete. I should go back and remove them. I am from Toronto. I did purchase at least 4 books for my basement project. I ask question just when it come up, later I found the answers and forget to remove them or the question is not relevant anymore. Sorry for having your head spin because of that.

I am still at the framing stage but sometimes got nervous when thinking about the plumbing stage and electricity stage which will come up soon. As my wife in US keep saying she want everything done when she came back in a short time, she need me help looking after the babies.

Anyhow, I will ask more questions in the future when I go to those other challenging stages.

Thanks again.
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Old 02-16-2006, 07:57 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KUI****G
Hi ACE Installer,

You are right, I have too many questions, and many of those previous questions are already obsolete. I should go back and remove them. I am from Toronto. I did purchase at least 4 books for my basement project. I ask question just when it come up, later I found the answers and forget to remove them or the question is not relevant anymore. Sorry for having your head spin because of that.

I am still at the framing stage but sometimes got nervous when thinking about the plumbing stage and electricity stage which will come up soon. As my wife in US keep saying she want everything done when she came back in a short time, she need me help looking after the babies.

Anyhow, I will ask more questions in the future when I go to those other challenging stages.

Thanks again.
At your pace you'll be done in 3 more months.
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Old 02-17-2006, 09:32 AM   #34
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Basement Renovation Question


I intend to install the shower unit which is the whole thing from HD. I saw one which is compact size. which can fit my limited space. The issue is the drain hole is not align with the rough in drain. What I have in mind is this, please correct me if you think I am wrong, I didn't see book recommend doing this, but I am thinking this is the only way if I don't want to use the shower base linear approach:

redirect the drain pipe to a few inches using albows, then raise the platform by a few inches.

my shower measurement is kind of odd, it can allow 34 inches width shower unit but the drain pipe must be 12" from north and 12" from east, I don't think any unit will have this type of drain hole alignment, but if you happen to know one. Please let me know where to get it.

After talking with people, I got the answer that I should break the concrete and relocate the drain instead of trying to move the pipe above the trap. Well, if this is what I have to do, I will look into how to do that. For JMGP, the book you mentioned is exactly what I bought, but I think it didn't mentioned this shower question I am asking... It is a good book, but miss details in some area...

Last edited by KUIPORNG; 02-17-2006 at 03:48 PM.
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Old 02-17-2006, 02:13 PM   #35
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www.taunton.com buy the book called "Remodeling a Basement"

May be at Borders or another book store too... $ 19.95

Full of ALL the information you need to finish a basement.....Step x Step.....


Joe
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Old 02-18-2006, 07:56 PM   #36
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Kui****

I would listen to the guys that explained to break up the concrete and move the rough pluming under the slab to the appropriate position. Otherwise I would move my framing walls to the proper locations to allow for the drain to be in the location needed for the tub that you purchased. Although if you go to the plumbing supply house, it might be possible to find a tub floor that has an offset drain in the 12" x 12" location.
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Old 02-20-2006, 09:20 AM   #37
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Thanks ACEInstaller, this is why it is important to ask dump question in order not to make major mistakes. I did end up able to find a shower unit just barefit my drain plan. And did install the frame around it this weekend and cut the drain pipe properly. I did not need to cut the concrete as I am lucky enough to find the last shower unit and purchased it in HD which has just the layout fit in my layout, I did need to turn the base 10 to 15 degree around the corner to allow fitting.

This is not without any challenge, because of lack of experience, I frame the frame corner with studs, and as experience framer will know, there will never be a perfect 90 degree coner if you put too suds in the corner touching each other, I did that, and end up the base cannot fit in as the base require a perfect 90 degree, I then thought I could trim some wood off using a angle grinder, and hope I dont need to remove the studs and still make it fit. didn't work and I lost quarter inches of studs wood in one of the wall because of that "eager to use the newly bought angle grinder" psycology. I end up have to remove one of the corner stud in order to fit the base.... I am sure an experience framer will not frame one of the corner stud when framing for shower base.... not to mention they don't want to use angle grinder just for the fun of it...

anyhow, now that frame is fine and I am ready to frame the rest of the bathroom.
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Old 02-20-2006, 09:46 PM   #38
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I wonder if you use steel stud in bathroom if it be more dangerous getting electrocuted...mmmmm
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Old 02-20-2006, 10:02 PM   #39
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Quote:
from Prest-On, I saw their description in their website, seems quite neat which solve problem for drywalls ending where there is no stud. Eliminate to cut dryall. Their other products don't know if that useful. Anyone has any experience to share?
I must have missed this the first time...

Don't buy those things (unless of course you already have). I'm sure they work fine, but so does plywood cut up into 5 or 6 inch strips.
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Old 02-21-2006, 09:35 AM   #40
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Thanks for letting me know I don't need to buy those things, use plywood strips instead, I certainly will do that to save money. for Bob the builder, I didn't use steel studs for bathroom. I use wood completely, but use steel tracks. as I don't want to do toe nailing, steel tracks is great even working with wood studs, I installed 3 2x6 studs last night, need to cut hole in middle to accomodate existing pipes, let me tell you 2x6 is really heavy for a 150 lb man like me to handle.... I also got the permit this morning... the information in it is immense, I need to spend quite some time to read it... go to my previous message for permit update info once I finished reading it. I am rush to get it this morning worrying the city talking about strike...

I will do some duct work starting today... the first time I cut duct, hope it is not too difficult, I don't know exactly which way is the best way to cut the steel: use drill then manual cutter, use angle grinder, use rotary tool, use jig saw? well may be I try the manual cutter first see what happen, unless any of your experience guy can give me a good suggestion to start with... I also have another question with this duct thing, I saw them come with those little metal leaves on the lips, do I bend the leaves so that they become 90 degree with the lips or be 0 degree with the lips and stick outside to the supply air trunk. or 90 degree and insert inside the supply air trunk....

Got the answer from the HD guy, gee, I couldn't believe I got A's in high school in Math/Science, it is actually 90 degree goes in then 0 degree fold up when's in, I ask how can we fold it once it feed in, he showed me by putting his hand through the hole... another kind of dump question from an inexperience person....

I did the duct work for one vent, found out angle grinder is the best to give clean, straight cut, if you don't mine fire work going above your head, though, I wore as much protection as possible when doing it, you know, google, ear piece, mask. but should wear a head too for the hair may get burn...

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Old 02-22-2006, 09:47 AM   #41
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The permit requires me to drill 5" holes for bath room fan and dryer exhaust. This is kind of surprise me as I originally thought 4" pipe will do the requirement. Now 5" hole, I do some research on internet, looks like you need a very powerful hammer drill and expensive 5" core bit to do this job... cost easily $300 for both drill and the bit alone on the cheap side.... This is quite expensive for two holes. I would look into see if renting the drill from the HD is cheapter, does anyone know how much it costs to hire a professional to drill two 5" holes, I can see the holes should be drill on the brick+wood, I belive that make more sense than drilling on the concrete wall even the concrete is above the ground, well, because I am inexperience, may be even this idea of drilling on the brick + wood is not the best, please let me know your advice. Thank You.

Another thing, my idea of opening up the return air vent from the ceiling metal sheet do not fly as the permit require return air vent at the lower wall location....
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Old 02-22-2006, 10:43 AM   #42
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You can cut circular holes in wood by drawing the 5" circle and drilling a hole large enough inside the edge of the circle for the blade of a rented reciprocating saw blade or jigsaw (depending on thickness of wood).
You can cut a hole in cinderblock by drilling holes around inside the circle and chipping the hole out with a hammer and chisel.
There's more than one way to do things.
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Old 02-22-2006, 11:21 AM   #43
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Thanks for your advice, except I have to say, the ceiling in the base ment is really a tight spot, using jigsaw there is too difficult, or even possible, my originally idea is just drill a small bit hole may be 1/4" at the center of the circle to way outside, well may drill a bit bigger to see whats behind the wood to make sure there is no wire/pipes stuff, then the main drilling is done from outside using this center hole, this method is read from a book. I feel more comfortable doing that, provided that I have appropriate equipment. Now it brings to my next question, what sort of hammer drill or even rotary hammer drill we need to drill 5" hole on brick, I mean like 600 Watt, 900 Watt,...etc. anyone with experience of that to share...

Just went to HD to check their rental equipment, it is not too bad, the price depends on the power you want, from $25 to $50 per 4 hours. I am not used to rent equipment, as the feeling of owning is better than the feeling of borrowing... well, this time may need to break the rule as it does seem make more sense to rent in this case.

My wife called from US saying I am spending too much for the basement, I therefore may need to try Mike's approach by drilling many holes to form a circle to avoid spending the money on the expensive drill bit.

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Old 02-23-2006, 07:26 PM   #44
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if your wife doesn't want you to spend any more money, I would use a good old hammer and chisel. just be careful not to break too big of a hole in the brick. time and pressure.

I also would recommend that you would be weary of using heavy duty power tools.

past posts such as using grinders in joist bays, are extremely dangerous and are a definate fire hazzard.
read all safety and operating instructions!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Old 02-24-2006, 10:18 AM   #45
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Hi ACEInstaller,

Thanks for your advice, I can tell you are an experience contractor, you are right, the smoke detector went off when I use angle grinder to trim the 2x4 studs... I think using the angle grinder to cut the heat supply trunk is OK though, right, although a lot of fire work generate from metal cutting, but there isn't smoke coming out like when I try to cut wood...

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