Go Back   DIY Chatroom Home Improvement Forum > Home Improvement > Remodeling

CLICK HERE AND JOIN OUR COMMUNITY TODAY...IT'S FREE!

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 06-06-2007, 08:43 AM   #226
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Toronto, Canada
Posts: 1,861
Share |
Default

Basement Renovation Question


I think you refer to crown moulding ... they are for beatiful cosmetic only... and not really for basement ... so in my basement there isn't any.

I was thinking to put those in my first floor living/family/kitchen though one day... when my wife get her CPA license... my youngest daugther (which I have most faith on) find a money making carreer and decide to give some to her dad...etc....

KUIPORNG is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-06-2007, 09:09 AM   #227
Handyguy
 
Brik's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: SE PA
Posts: 803
Send a message via Skype™ to Brik
Default

Basement Renovation Question


Wow, all those soffits, angles and different ceiling heights. What a pain.

A few suggestions for others. Don't take this as badmouthing you, KUI****G.

One can avoid some of the differing ceiling heights and soffit maze Kui****g has by moving, adjusting and relocating some obstructions. This will not completely eliminate the need for soffits but can minimize, sometimes, differing heights.

Also, if the gain in only an inch or two, I am of the opinion its better to just make a straight soffit. For example, in this picture
[IMG]http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/aa178/kui****g/PICT0350.jpg[/IMG]
I would personally have just run the soffit straight across.

The reason to run straight across is to minimize drywall cuts and to give a cleaner finish look. if you like the look, appreciate the headroom, and do not mind the extra work then you have done the right thing.
Brik is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-06-2007, 09:15 AM   #228
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Toronto, Canada
Posts: 1,861
Default

Basement Renovation Question


I totally agree with you Brik... in fact.. I remember I mention somthing similar in some messages above... that is why experience count...

I said a lot of XYZ$%&^#^ when I mudding those soffet... and definitely will go with the route you talked about if I ever done another soffet in my life time....

for the example you given above though, there is a window behind the soffet making straight not possible... but the idea I agree 100%
KUIPORNG is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-12-2007, 01:02 PM   #229
Newbie
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Ottawa Canada
Posts: 20
Default

Basement Renovation Question


Hi Kui****g.......I noticed you had sliding doors on one of your walls........I'm creating a storage space and the entrance will be the 72"WX80"H sliding doors from HD........seeing as you seem to be a frequent visitor to HD I'm assuming this is where you got your's.......
My question is, what was the actual size of the doors when you got them home - meaning, would a 72" opening be all I should leave when I build the wall across the room to accomodate the 72"door.......or do I need to leave an extra inch or two on either side like you would for a standard door.......what did you find???..........

Pat
Pat the Dad is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-12-2007, 01:48 PM   #230
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Toronto, Canada
Posts: 1,861
Default

Basement Renovation Question


Hi Pat the Dad, very good question, don't make the mistake like I do which end up I spent $60 bucks for custom made sliding door had I did the homework like you are trying to do now. OK, here is the points you need to note:

- sliding door normally install on finished wall (drywalled) so this is different from regular door which have rough opening etc.etc. so your measurement must the between finished surfaces including wall to wall and wall to floor measurements.

- width-wise speaking is not a big issue as sliding door has a range for width somthing like good for opening from xx inches to yy inches and a lot of acommodation...

- length-wise speaking, it is a different story. there isn't much tolerance, but they do come with two different size....

I cannot give you the exact number off my head but consider you probably live in a different city as mine, you better off visit HD once and write down the measurement from there. As what we sell here probably manufactured locally from some warehouse which may be different from your states.

Hopes this help... if you insist being lazy to check it out... 80" length I think is kind of the standard. width really flessible as long as you are not way too wide or way too narrow....

one more point, make sure the opening is as square as possible and have solid wood support (good width) at the header, otherwise, the sliding door cannot be installed easily and may not slide good.... but like everything, there is a tolerance, just try your best... I made a bit of mistake at that as well as my sliding door is right below a support steel beam of the house... I had hard time finding spot to screw in my upper track which is the main weight support... but luckily there do have one thin strip which can hole screws.... I consider myself so lucky... I could have waste $180 for the doors...

Last edited by KUIPORNG; 06-12-2007 at 01:53 PM.
KUIPORNG is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-13-2007, 11:21 AM   #231
Newbie
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Ottawa Canada
Posts: 20
Default

Basement Renovation Question


Thanks Kui****g.........I actually live in Ottawa so wherever these doors are made they are probably the same ones that get shipped up here to HD..........80" height is what I'm going with and a 72" width......so it sounds like with an 80" door the finished opening needs to be pretty exact (80") or is their like a 1/2 inch tolerance???? And width wise if the opening is 72" there will still be enough for the doors to cover it???

Pat
Pat the Dad is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-13-2007, 11:26 AM   #232
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Toronto, Canada
Posts: 1,861
Default

Basement Renovation Question


Hi Pat,

I think 1/2" probably ok... because it is really small and they do have tolerance...

for 72" width... that should be no problem... also.. they sell in different width set... I am there will be sure one set cover that.

it is again really the length, they only have two standard, one is somthing like 80" the other is somthing like 82".... but be honest... I cannot remember and the one installed in my home is a non-standard custom made one... So if you want 100%, please take a look at HD's existing stock next time you are there....

Good luck and enjoy your project....
KUIPORNG is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-13-2007, 01:29 PM   #233
Newbie
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Ottawa Canada
Posts: 20
Default

Basement Renovation Question


no worries there Kui****g........it's definitely 72" width (it was the widest they had - in stock anyway)......thanks again
Pat the Dad is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-29-2007, 06:56 AM   #234
Handyguy
 
Brik's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: SE PA
Posts: 803
Send a message via Skype™ to Brik
Default

Basement Renovation Question


Hey - Its been a while since I chimed in on this forum. I got my email saying this thread was responded to and I thought I would jump in.

For doors (Interior, exterior, pre-hung, sliders) and windows for that matter.

What I do is get the required doors and windows on the project site BEFORE the framing. This can be a pain, storage wise. The reason is I want to measure the actual door or window. I am of the opinion that the documented rough openings on the packages and documentation from the manufacturer is way too generous and makes it awkward to shim. Those large rough openings are there to accommodate for grossly out of square/plumb openings.

Us DIYers tend to go slower and check every little thing for plumb. When we do that we do not need those large openings as suggested by the mfg.

So, again, what I do is get the door first and measure it. I ignore the mfgs suggestion for a rough opening.

If the door being discussed is a bi-fold door that goes into a finished opening then I make sure the finished opening is exactly what is specified.
Brik is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-26-2008, 08:19 AM   #235
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Toronto, Canada
Posts: 1,861
Default

Basement Renovation Question


got some photo before but accidentally erases them in photobucket....anyhow... it is a ok job... for regular home... not bad.... not for the state of art expensive renovation though... for everyday usage it servers its purpose.... would look better if I got $$ to furnished it better ... anyhow... I will try to retake some photos and post it again...

KUIPORNG is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Question about steel I BEAM in basement djohns10 Building & Construction 7 06-23-2012 03:55 PM
Basement door question number6 General DIY Discussions 7 07-17-2007 02:54 PM
Noob question for basement finish electrical dtmbizzle Electrical 16 07-11-2007 07:08 AM
Basement Bathroom Tiling Question KUIPORNG Flooring 1 07-22-2006 11:03 PM




Top of Page | View New Posts

Copyright © 2003-2014 Escalate Media. All Rights Reserved.